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P. gypsicola

  • #21
P_gypsicola_A_24Oct07.jpg
 
  • #22
beautiful Pinguicula gypsicola as always Joseph!!
 
  • #23
Those plants are gorgeous! What are your growing conditions?
 
  • #25
Here is another picture taken this morning:

P_gypsicola_3Nov07_B.jpg
 
  • #26
Man, very nice pics. I started quite a few gypsys from pullings this spring and they have all produced their winter leaves.Is this the time to repot them or maybe wait til later this winter? How many years do they usually take to mature?

Thanks,
Mark W.
 
  • #27
Man, very nice pics. I started quite a few gypsys from pullings this spring and they have all produced their winter leaves.Is this the time to repot them or maybe wait til later this winter? How many years do they usually take to mature?

Thanks,
Mark W.
Changing their potting can be done any time - I have found the most critical factor in success and their continued health is light, strong light, which is easier for me to provide while using artificial fluorescent lighting.

These are approximately 6-8 months since I started them from leaf pullings.
 
  • #28
Changing their potting can be done any time - I have found the most critical factor in success and their continued health is light, strong light, which is easier for me to provide while using artificial fluorescent lighting.

These are approximately 6-8 months since I started them from leaf pullings.

Hello Joseph,

It is really great plant !
May I know what will be the maximum tolerant temperature of this plant & what will be the distance between the plant and the artificial fluorescent lighting ?

Thanks !
 
  • #29
Hello Joseph,

It is really great plant !
May I know what will be the maximum tolerant temperature of this plant & what will be the distance between the plant and the artificial fluorescent lighting ?

Thanks !
I'm not certain how much cold this species can tolerate, mine are often down to approximately 40F through the Winter, and the high can sometimes get near 100F on some sunny Summer days. I try to keep the plants as close to the cool-white fluorescent lights as I possibly can without having them touch the lights, but sometimes flower stalks grow too quickly and get damaged when they touch the lights. I give the plants about 14 hours of light in each 24 hour day, but sometimes I give them 16 hours of light or even 24 hours (lights on always), the more light I give them the better the plants look. In my experience they shift from Winter leaf form to Summer leaf form, almost randomly, some will be in either form at any time of the year even while growing in the same trays and under the same conditions.

Sometime in June 2007, just after we returned from our vacation in California that same month, after everything seemed fine, we began to have some health issues crop up unexpectedly -- this continued until just recently (hope this statement doesn't inspire their return). Anyway during this time I was forced to neglect caring for my plants. I lost many, though not any Mexican Pinguicula. Even though I usually like to keep all my Pinguicula soaking in water, year-'round, this time they have been totally dry for almost six months. The Pinguicula gypsicola in the photos posted here are examples of plants that inadventently received this drying out treatment, BTW they are still dry while I am taking these photos.
 
  • #30
OFF TOPIC,
Hey there Joseph, so glad to see that you haven't dropped off the end of the earth.
Email me please. let's catch up
Your gypsicola are outstanding.
Lois
 
  • #31
Wow Joseph,6-8 months old !!! Mine are easily 6 months and I have 3 in 2" pots. Maybe I need to feed them more often.Now that most of them are in their winter leaves is it still ok to feed them the freeze-dried bloodworms?
 
  • #32
Thanks Joseph :-O
Then I will give her more and more light to see .
 
  • #33
The trick is to give lots of light but not to let the plant get too hot or the air too dry. With sunlight this is very difficult, with fluorescent lights it is much easier.
 
  • #34
I'm not certain how much cold this species can tolerate, mine are often down to approximately 40F through the Winter, and the high can sometimes get near 100F on some sunny Summer days.

Interesting..... for some reason I was under the impression that your plants were not receiving any seasonal fluctuation, either in terms of lighting or temperature. I had a mentl mage fo your ollection being in a large basement, under many artificial lights. Now it seems as though you may have them in a large greenhouse, under artificial lighting. Do you have a picture of your setup?

By the way, the specimen that you sent me, year ago, has now seen its second period of winter rosette. Oddly enough, its sprouted leaves, from several months ago, under identical conditions, haven't changed its leaf mode.
 
  • #35
Interesting..... for some reason I was under the impression that your plants were not receiving any seasonal fluctuation, either in terms of lighting or temperature. I had a mentl mage fo your ollection being in a large basement, under many artificial lights. Now it seems as though you may have them in a large greenhouse, under artificial lighting. Do you have a picture of your setup?

By the way, the specimen that you sent me, year ago, has now seen its second period of winter rosette. Oddly enough, its sprouted leaves, from several months ago, under identical conditions, haven't changed its leaf mode.

All my CP are in a small bedroom (now plant room) of a double-wide mobile, located on our acre in a rural area of Tucson, Arizona, USA.

Initially I had been fighting a losing battle, to keep them watered and the humidity up since we have, central conventional A/C in the house. Late Summer, last year (2006) I turned off the central A/C and installed a 6000 CFM evaporative cooler in the window of the plant room, with a baffle to keep the air flow from blowing the plants off their shelves. The evaporative cooler is used to keep the entire house cool - it does that well. I keep the pads of the cooler wet, year-'round and during the winter I turn off the coolers' blower and use two box fans situated in windows at the far end of the house, to blow out and pull cooled, moistened air through the coolers' wet pads. This has reduced my need to top-off the water in my shoe box sized plastic plant trays, from every day, to once per week. It has also increased the humidity and lowered the ambient temperature considerably.

There are many more than 100 plant trays on shelves that hold six trays each, with two, two-tube, 48" fluorescent fixtures (a few with three fixtures - six lamps), wired to overdrive the cool-white (4100-4200K) fluorescent lamps. Most of these are grouped into five sets, each with their own digital timer, so that only two groups are illuminated at any one time, so they are rotated and each group is only lit, during its designated - on time - three or four days per week. A few shelves are powered continuously so they never go off. I needed to rotate the lights this way, because otherwise my house would likely burn down. It saves a little on electricity, keeps the room a little bit cooler, and the plants don't seem to notice they spend a few days per week in the semi-darkness. Last Winter was their first under this system and it seems to have helped a few reluctant species to achieve bloom.

More later . . .
 
  • #36
Do you have a picture of the setup, or several pictures to cover the entire collection?

I have to laugh because I just have one shelving unit, of 5 shelves, with a small shelf for just Nepethenes, and two window sills. I am strictly low budget!

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That was one window sill. The other are more Mexican butterworts.

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Then there are the buckets of minibogs.... My wife thinks I'm, obcessed. It's just a hobby....
 
  • #37
PlantRoom Page

In order to speed up this thread I put together a few photos on a frames page, which is here: PlantRoom
 
  • #38
VERY nice setup.....much more organized and neat looking than mine..............
 
  • #39
Very nice indeed Joseph.From looking at some of your lights mine are way too low. I have one unit that has the bulbs spaced out not close together likes yours are. When I have enough plants to justify setting up another one I will do it like yours are.I have some pings blooming now and their flowers are getting burned on my bulbs.I'll have to try and trick out my flourescents like you do soon and see how that helps.
 
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  • #40
It is a Pinguicula bio-library. :-O

I see in your library, the distance between the plant and the fluorescent lamps is rather short, most likely 10-15cm
In my home it's hard for me to setup such close distance, since extra heat will greatly increase surrounding temperature and lower the humidity. Switching on Air-condition during lighting is only my method~ but only for when I come back to my home.

For you are using cool-white (4100-4200K) fluorescent lamps. Many perople say using 6000k (cool day light) of fluorescent lamps, as best choice. And your Pings are really very nice and may I guess using lower K values of lamps will promote much healthy Pings ?
 
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