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  1. #1
    Meaven's Avatar
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    i ordered this as my first ping as i thought it looked the nicest.

    it arrived... injured. it had become uprooted during shipping and had lost all but its youngest leaves. i re-planted it (with the help of a tweezers...) and did a quick take on how to propagate cuttings, and planted the best looking of the lost leaves.

    this is what i got now, my best guesses on how this works.



    is there even the slightest chance any of the leaves will take root, or the main plant will survive? is there anything i can do at this point to help?
    if i were ruler of the world, anyone who defined a nepenthene as a "companion plant" to orchids would be fired from a cannon atop mt. kinabalu.

  2. #2
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Cuttings for this species take so readily that I doubt you will have problems.

    The only suggestion I can make is that you might want to repot in a new, clean media because that moss could cause problems.
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

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  3. #3
    Meaven's Avatar
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    cool thats good to know.

    now, how long does it usually take for plantlets to show up? and is it normal for the leaf to turn brownish at the end before then like a few of mine are?
    if i were ruler of the world, anyone who defined a nepenthene as a "companion plant" to orchids would be fired from a cannon atop mt. kinabalu.

  4. #4
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Leaf budding can take anywhere between a week and a couple months.

    The browning out of you rleaves is probably caused by too much moisture. I did not really notice it before but it seems that you keep the plant very wet. I, personally, grow mine a bit drier. You might want to consider transfering the leaves over to a different set up. I like to use LFS as a propogationmaterial for Mexi-Pings. Take a handful and get it wet then squeeze it till no water runs free and then put it in a zip lock. Place the leaves on top and seal. Put it in decent light but not sunlight (don't want to bake them) and they should take off.
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

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    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat

  5. #5
    Metal King
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    From what I've seen, the leaf sort of steadily dies off as the plantlest form.
    Yous should see something in about a month, and no doubt you will lose a few leaves, take them out once you're sure they are dying so as to keep things clean, and agreed with Pyro, gotta put 'em in something else, pure washed vermiculite seems to work well and also seems to be less supportive of other junk like that moss and other assorted non-CP greenery, plus it
    s real easy to remove them once they are established, without hurting the roots.

    Looks like you're getting the full Ping experience from this first one eh??

    EDIT- lol I somehow typed this post and then left the house for a while without hitting "reply" so I was not intending to contradict what Travis just said, sorry
    Da Growlist

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    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Carl,

    Feel free to contradict me all you want. Everything I type here is "in my experience" and as such it might not work for someone else. Other options are always a good thing
    'My love was science- specifically biology and, more specifically, when placed in a common jar, which of two organisms would devour the other.'

    See You Space Cowboy

    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat
    Hagerstown, Maryland

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    actagggcagtgatatcccattggtacatggcaaattagcctcatgat

  7. #7
    Meaven's Avatar
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    yeah, its a lot to take in. at least the supplier sent me another free of charge, but i just cant let the one i got first die if theres anything i can do about it.

    although to be honest all the propagation info will no doubt be useful later. trial by fire...
    if i were ruler of the world, anyone who defined a nepenthene as a "companion plant" to orchids would be fired from a cannon atop mt. kinabalu.

  8. #8
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    The technique that follows in this post, is definitely overkill if in your circumstances, moderate diligence should still provide you with some success.

    I concur, If those severed leaves stay as wet as they are in your photo, "in my experience" they will soon rot. Just very humid, lying on the surface of moist, not wet media usually works best for me. Following is a quote (with a few revisions) from my topic “One is just never enough".

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]Hello Joe and everyone, following is my Mexican Pinguicula propagating technique. This is my basic technique, which I tweak and modify when ideas occur to me (revised: 28Aug06).

    First; I pull ½ or more of the leaves from plants I am transplanting, I do this beginning with the oldest leaves first.
    Second; using Ziploc® snack size bags (6 ½ “L x 3 ¼” W) I place a small quantity of slightly moist LFS inside, covering the bottom of the bag. Using a plastic vial with a couple of small holes drilled into its lid (1/32” diameter) as a shaker (like a salt or pepper shaker) I sprinkle a light dusting of RootShield® brand of Trichoderma harzianum powder onto the LFS.
    Third; I place the detached leaves onto the RootShield® dusted LFS in the Ziploc® bags.
    Fourth; using a Sharpie® permanent marker I label the outside of the bag.
    Fifth; I place the bags together where they are well lit and warm but not in direct sunlight and then I wait for about 2-3 weeks or until buds or small plantlets are clearly evident on the leaves, then I go to step six.
    Sixth; having prepared enough 2 ¼ “ square plastic pots ahead of time (see propagule pot preparation), I gently place the budding leaves onto the surface of the pots, put four pots per gallon size Ziploc® bag, seal the bag and place it under fluorescent lights next to the adult plants.

    ** Propagule pot preparation:
    New media and procedure – revised: 28Aug06:
    Media: 1 part silica sand, 1 part Schultz aquatic plant soil (sintered fullers earth granules), small amount of iron oxide powder – I first add the dry sand to the mixing bin, stirring as I add iron oxide powder until all the granules appear coated with the iron oxide powder, then I gradually pour in water until the iron oxide/sand mixture is evenly moist, next I prepare the aquatic plant soil by lightly pre-moistening it with a 40ppm concentrated solution of 20-20-20 soluble fertilizer w/trace elements, then I mix them together , thoroughly.
    Pots: I insert a thin layer of LFS, just one layer of strands usually suffices to help retain the media, then I fill the pot within ¼ inch with the media, I then dust the surface with a light coating of dried, powdered, insects with a small quantity of Trichoderma harzianum T-22 powder mixed in, then I add media to the top of the pot, next I set the finished pot into a saucer of water with the level just below the top, this settles the media, I next remove the pot from the water, place it in a tray for drainage, use forceps to gently place the leaves that have begun developing plantlets evenly spread out upon the surface of the pot, then place the pot into a Ziploc® bag, and then under fluorescent lights.

    [Old procedure, was: Fill pot 2/3 full with moist LFS, packed loosely, top with ¼ - ½ “ of peat or peat/sand which has first been sterilized by cooking in a microwave [This must be done carefully, if the peat gets too hot, it will burn or partially burn and spoil the mix.], cooled down and then thoroughly inoculated with RootShield® brand of Trichoderma harzianum powder by dusting, mixing and then dusting and mixing again. After topping the pots I spritz them with enough water to wet the surface of the media then sprinkle an additional dusting of RootShield® brand of Trichoderma harzianum powder. The powder is very fine like dust and a little goes a very long way. In just a week or two they look like the photo in my post and the media surface is covered with beneficial fungal hyphae like a fine white spider web.]


    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

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