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Leaf Cutting Woe

jimscott

Tropical Fish Enthusiast
For the most part, Mexican ping leaf cuttings are easy. The most difficult one to sprout hd been P. gypsicola... and even then I can get a few to do so. However, my attempts with P. laueana & P. colimensis have been 100% failures. If anybody has some surefire ways, like the Ferengi, "I'm all ears".
 
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My attempts with lauanea have been 100%, I find that a medium of sand, perlite, and LFS kept wet works wonders, peat based mixes cause them to rot.
 
jimscott,

It sounds to me, like a real mystery. The first Mexican Pinguicula that I remember doing leaf-pulling progagation with, was Pinguicula gypsicola. I usually have some degree of success when propagating this species (I usueally get at least a few plantlets), except when I tried keeping them damp. When damp they all quickly rotted, though some were successful using damp LFS. When setting leaf-pullings on dry paper towels or even just plastic cups or other containers, kept dry but humid, there was usually great success.

For me Pinguicula laueana responds to leaf-pulling propagation as well, or better than any of the other Mexican species and hybrids - so it is certainly a mystery why you are having such difficulty. I haven't yet had the pleasure of growing Pinguicula colimensis, so I can't yet comment on that species.
 
I'm using APS and the media is dry.... and so is the air. I can provide a relatively dry media with the pots suspended and water underneath, so it provides a little more humidity.
 
I use a lightly damp meadia, cure {let exposed to air}the leaf pulling at least 24 hrs
then put a thin layer layer(approximately 1/4 inch) of NZLFSM
jest barely insert the cured end of the pulling under the LFSM
This works best if the remainder of the leaf doesn't touch the sphagnum Place in a plastic bag close the bag check the pot every 3 or 4 day. when the plantlets start to form begin reducing the humidity
Open the bag a litte more every couple of days to reduce the humidity,Until the plant is at room temp and humidity.
 
I've used the baggie method before, though not with LFS. I mainly insert the basal portion in amost dry media, exposed to the air. Thanks for the guidance.
 
I'm making my first attempt at propagating a ping using the method described on the ICPS website - pure, damp vermiculite. I just have the pot sitting in a tray of water next to several other plants. The top is covered with a little clear plastic cup. Because vermiculite is so loose it drains pretty well, so what I'm left with is slightly damp media and very humid air.

I'll keep you posted on my success with this method, but don't hold your breath!!

EDIT: nevermind, ICPS recommends using a mix of perlite and vermiculite. I forget where I read about pure vermiculite, but I'm doing it anyway!
 
I'm making my first attempt at propagating a ping using the method described on the ICPS website - pure, damp vermiculite. I just have the pot sitting in a tray of water next to several other plants. The top is covered with a little clear plastic cup. Because vermiculite is so loose it drains pretty well, so what I'm left with is slightly damp media and very humid air.

I'll keep you posted on my success with this method, but don't hold your breath!!

EDIT: nevermind, ICPS recommends using a mix of perlite and vermiculite. I forget where I read about pure vermiculite, but I'm doing it anyway!


I worked in a botanic garden for several years, and the head indoor horticulturalist swore by this method. The Propagation house, which was where he did most of his work, was pretty much entirely trays of Perlite with little twigs or leaves in them.

Best of luck!
 
I find making cuttings is easy with practice. I take as much of the leaf a possible put it into a pot with regular CP soil. Then I burry the tip a little but still have most of the it out in the light. Put a bag over it and wait a couple weeks.

I have a 100% success rate.

Hoped it Helped!
 
  • #10
I find making cuttings is easy with practice. I take as much of the leaf a possible put it into a pot with regular CP soil. Then I burry the tip a little but still have most of the it out in the light. Put a bag over it and wait a couple weeks.

I have a 100% success rate.

Hoped it Helped!

I have done that before. Some species are more challenging (gypsicola, lauenea, colimensis). I have also had some leaves rot in a baggie. It's those 3 that I struggle with. The rest sprout easily enough no matter what I do.
 
  • #11
When I first received my Pinguicula jaumavensis, it arrived smashed and beginning to rot. In desperation I sprinkled a light dusting of dry RootShield® powder on the smashed and rotting pile of plant parts. I kept them on a dry paper towel in a cool, humid, and well-lit spot under my fluorescent lights. The rot was arrested and not only did the original crowns recover and begin to grow, but most of the severed leaves that had began to rot, sprouted plantlets.

Perhaps a similar treatment, such as dipping your difficult species leaf-pullings in RootShield®, (like cooks sometimes dip meat in flour to form a thin coating), may help them to survive until they can grow for you.
 
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  • #12
How about sulfur? I have that on hand.
 
  • #13
How about sulfur? I have that on hand.
I don't think it would function the same; RootShield® is a living organism that forms a symbiosis with living plant tissue and feeds on pathogenic microorganisms and even nematode eggs; sulfur is a chemical element that is a plant nutrient, when in certain chemical forms (compounds), and is also assimilated by soil bacteria and converted into sulfuric acid and other sulfur containing compounds.

Though I have experience using RootShield® to protect our precious Pings - I sprinkle a little in each planting hole, and I mix a little into my dried insect powder (while I'm grinding it) - I haven't used powdered sulfur, except to acidify soil. If you have a few leaf-pullings to try it on, I'd go for it. If you do, let us know how it goes.
 
  • #14
Years ago I had a bottle of Rootone®. I'll have to look around for a retailer with RootShield®. Thanks for the guidance!
 
  • #15
Since RootShield® is T-22 form of Trichoderma, I wonder if other types of Trichoderma would be as effective in this application?
 
  • #16
Here is a link to my favorite retail supplier of RootShield®. Rootone®, of course, is an entirely different product, a rooting hormone + fungicide. I once was following a thread where someone was planning to use Rootone® to see if it would enhance propagation from leaf-pullings of Mexican Ping species. I don't believe they ever reported on their results.
 
  • #17
Thanks for the link. Looks like they have one location, so it has to be shipped.
 
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