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Thread: new seeds and bloom ? Oo

  1. #17
    jeff 2's Avatar
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    suite

    for me the succulent stage is a sort of dormancy and the flower come from often in this stage on the mexican ping

    for the light see here the document in french

    http://pinguicula.free.fr/lumiere1.jpeg

    heliophile = suny plants
    sciaphile = shady plants

    the scale for exemple

    full sun = 100000 lux ( 1000 watt/mē ); overcast =25000 lux ; well-lit room = 300 lux ;work shop = 300lux ; moon light =10 lux

    jeff

  2. #18
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shinsuko View Post
    30sm from the soil and its on auto clock of 12\12
    Artificial light quickly weakens as distance from the source increases, especially with fluorescent lamps. I position my own plants within 10cm of their fluorescent light source or closer - only increasing the distance, temporarily to accommodate flowers as they form. Your photo-period sounds good.

    If your Mexican Pinguicula is actually getting good lighting, it could soon grow to look more like these -->



    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

  3. #19
    shinsuko's Avatar
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    i meant 30cm
    if that so then i will add 4 more hours to my pings and see what happens

    in addition i just constructed my seed germinating box with even better conditions then my terra
    i have there i hell lot of light ( 130W of 2 X 65W florecent blubs) located 20cm above the 2 big plates
    which going to be the soil containers and i made it easy lower watering and even added the best small
    computer fan that i could find for air circulation on the side of the box (i had to drill holes in the box =P)
    and with all that, i made the fan to intake the air into the box and located fogger near the fan.
    ill post a picture soon. i didn't finish to testing it since i don't want to have to high temp because the close light, i also need to measure them and i need to make that box work with half conditions (without soil or water) and see what the stable result of humidity and temp.

    for that i have a question, for seeds, i need also the same amount of light hours as the adult plant ? (16-hours of light as Joseph suggested)

  4. #20
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    Drosera plants definitely need much stronger light than Pinguicula. Though they can both do well in a similar, strong amount of fluorescent lighting.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

  5. #21
    shinsuko's Avatar
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    well i just finished my first test with my germination box i made, the 2 X 65W fluorescent blubs where Epic fail since the temp gone wild to 35+ after a couple of hours and the humidity dropped to 50. i gave the box to cool down and replaced my 2 X 65W fluorescent blubs on 2 X 40W weaker ones and drilled another couple of holes for good air circulation.

    I will post some pictures i took, they taken just before the second run test.

    the box from the outside:


    the cover with reflecting cover with light reflecting cover:


    a few pics from the inside of the box, note the holes on the sides for the air circulation
    and the holes in the soil boxes for lower watering, and if anyone wants to know
    the soil going to be about 10cm distance from the bulbs:






    the humidity meter i use for that box:


    the box as a complete and after turning it on in a dark room:




    so for now i have to wait another few hours to find how stable the conditions in it.

    I have a few questions that may help me to understand what to improve next.
    First, if it was in full working condition with 1-2cm water on the bottom of the box and soil in the soil boxes do the humidity and the temp will improve on some proportion ?

    Second question is if there is a need for another fan in the box for the out-take? since the only fan on the box is in-take, tho i can use some interesting thing i made to switch the fan direction after some time.

    Last question is if there is a need to drill another couple of holes for the air circulation? or not to add since it may be to much or its better off to add another fan and such.

  6. #22
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    You might consider mounting your secondary ventilation fan, on the cover (perhaps near the center), pulling the heated air, up and out.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

  7. #23
    shinsuko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joseph Clemens View Post
    You might consider mounting your secondary ventilation fan, on the cover (perhaps near the center), pulling the heated air, up and out.
    Done it and the 3th test was perfect, only the humidity was down abit and its not good enough
    so i made a desert air conditioner style humidifier, under the side fan i made small water poll
    and made cage for the fan and soaked a piece of clothing in the water and mounted it on the
    fan cage so the air intake will be tho the soaked clothing, its sounds weird but its works
    now i'm running the 4th test with the self made humidifier and then if the result will be
    80?% min humidity with 21 to 26 stable temp then ill put the soil and the water.

    i have one final question, the seeds, how do i put them in the soil ?
    from above and press gently ? or just put it above to absorb light and some heat?

  8. #24
    Moderator Joseph Clemens's Avatar
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    Most CP seed are sown on the surface of moist/wet media. Seed can also be sown on the surface of water, then transferred to media once they germinate. One thing to watch out for is getting the seed covered by media. It seems that this becomes a problem for many CP seed. Apparently they germinate best when exposed to air and light.
    Joseph Clemens
    Tucson, Arizona, U S A

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