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Thread: Forcing Dormancy/Photoperiod? (Plus some general Dormancy questions)

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Forcing Dormancy/Photoperiod? (Plus some general Dormancy questions)

    So i have to say, there is a lot of conflicting information on Ping dormancy. I've been doing a lot of reading and i've seen everything from "They can survive not going through dormancy" to "Let the PLANTS choose when to do dormancy" to "Change your light/temp/etc... to induce it"

    For reference I have 2 Different types of Pings, a P.weser, and a P.agnata x moranensis .

    My setup right now is:

    Lights: Agrobrite 4 bulb/2 foot T5 HO (Amazon.com : Agrobrite T5, FLT28, 2 Foot, 8-Tube Fixture with Included Fluorescent Grow Lights : Plant Growing Light Fixtures : Patio, Lawn & Garden) specifically
    Trays: 1.5 Inch tall trays filled with always RO distilled water (Sometimes it'll maybe get down to about an inch but in general I keep it filled up)
    Media: peat moss (1 part), perlite (2 parts), and silica sand (1 part). (Mix is actually from Sarracenia Northwest). Does this seem like a good mix? AKA enough drainage, im not super sure on this.
    Pots: Plastic 5.5" square pots (is this too tall? for how much tray depth I have).

    The lights are about 6-8 inches away from the pots right now.

    So I guess here is my main question: Right now they are on a 16 hour photoperiod, both are bright red and seem healthy. I know dormancy generally comes in Late Fall/Winter to early spring. So should I let them do it on their own? I mean...the light isn't really going to change unless I change it or should I start reducing the photoperiod (they are on an automatic timer right now).

    Also when do I start restricting the water they have? Once succulent leaves start forming or should I start doing that before? And if so when?

    Obviously im a bit confused on the specifics, since everything is artificial right now they aren't getting any natural cues.
    Thanks!

    Edit: Side question: Is Betta fish pellets (like what we feed sundews) acceptable to feed pings as well, I haven't found a ton of info on feeding pings unfortunately.
    Last edited by Mercfh; 07-13-2016 at 02:51 PM.

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    cwatson1414's Avatar
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    Even successful growers seem to have conflicting advice. IME, stop giving them water and they will produce succulent growth.
    The SNW media is heavy and organic. Many Mexican pinguicula will perform well in it, but they are always healthier in a mineral media like Turface. Also, they want less water than other carnivores, which may throw you off if these are your first pings.
    I don't have any experience feeding beta pellets, but dilute urea-free orchid fertilizer sprayed on the leaves works really well.

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Why is it they always do better in mineral media? Is there a list of media that can be used (or types) that are mineral based (also is 100% mineral based ok?)

    I guess this makes sense where they come from? I mean I don't know for sure, but im assuming where they grow is probably mostly rocky/mineral based soil?

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    nimbulan's Avatar
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    I've tried feeding my pings betta pellets and they don't seem to react to or digest it even when crushed into very small pieces. I've taken to spraying them with Maxsea instead and many other plants as well since it's a lot less work.

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimbulan View Post
    I've tried feeding my pings betta pellets and they don't seem to react to or digest it even when crushed into very small pieces. I've taken to spraying them with Maxsea instead and many other plants as well since it's a lot less work.
    I've been meaning to get some of that stuff, how much do you use and at what strength?

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    I believe I mixed it up at 1/2 tsp per gallon (1/8 tsp for a standard quart spray bottle.) I also have a 25 gauge glue applicator needle that I use for smaller plants. I tend to fertilize once a week for most plants, but not as often for most sundews.

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    jeff 2's Avatar
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    Bonjour

    here you have 2 hybrids

    for the taxons I think we need to remain in close conditions of the "in situ".
    for me 3 or 4 great group
    -mexican
    -temperate
    -caraibes
    -south america
    with different culture ,according to their climate, and their environment 'in situ' , thus, a Mexican does not grow in the same way that a tempered .
    for me if your ping leaves are red , probably too much intensity of light.

    in these 4 great groups, dormancy (when there is) not reponds has the same cause.

    jeff
    Last edited by jeff 2; 07-14-2016 at 01:07 AM.

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    Enthusiastic Enthusiast Zath's Avatar
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    While I'm certainly no expert on Pinguicula, I agree with Cwatson on the soil choice, at least for Mexican Pings. The easiest way I've found is to grow them in 100% turface (or other similar ph-neutral, expanded clay aggregate; I use API-brand Aquatic Plant Media, purchasable on Amazon). This way you can maintain a water level (about 1/2" depending on your pot-height), and the media will wick up enough water to keep the plants happy, since they typically have very shallow root-systems.

    As for feeding. Betta pellets are probably fine, but they need to be reduced to a powder, not just small pieces. I've had good luck by powdering bloodworms in a mortar and pestle and -lightly- sprinkling a little over the plants. You should see slime / dew production in as little as a day.

    Unforunately, dormancy is where I've always been stuck. I've somehow managed to grow some P. esseriana for a couple years now without giving it dormancy, and other than it taking forever to flower, seems to be doing okay.

    It seems that if they're kept indoors in stable conditions, you need to induce dormancy yourself by gradually reducing the photoperiod, and gradually reducing their watering schedules. Both of which, in a communal rack or terrarium, can be a bit of a PITA, especially if they're mixed in with tropicals, which is why I haven't done it myself yet.

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nimbulan View Post
    I believe I mixed it up at 1/2 tsp per gallon (1/8 tsp for a standard quart spray bottle.) I also have a 25 gauge glue applicator needle that I use for smaller plants. I tend to fertilize once a week for most plants, but not as often for most sundews.
    Do you mind asking me how much you put on? Like a drop per leaf or just a single drop or something (I wouldn't want to over-fertilize)

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    nimbulan's Avatar
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    I just spray the plants enough to get them wet, but (hopefully) not dripping. No problems yet, though I'm sure there are species that are more sensitive.

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