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Thread: Worth it getting a Terrarium for pings?

  1. #11
    jeff 2's Avatar
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    Bonjour

    My only other final question is on humidity: Any reasoning why the pings in humid climates/terrariums have WAYY bigger leaves? Or is having a lowish humidity not really a problem for them?

    do you know the name of these specie ?

    big difference in size for example between gigantea and nivalis or medusinae , big difference also on their cultivate condition.

    effect ,sizes can sometimes be attributed to the air of moisture rate. In-situ plants decrease their leaf surface and sometimes become succulent (becomes dormant) in the dry season between November and May.Dormancy for these plants is necessary, what is usually does not terrarium.

    one thing can be important for the size, the taking insects .In fact insects are their fertilizer.

    to your ping, one of the parent is a moranensis the size standard maxi for the summer leaves : length 115mm width 60 mm.

    jeff
    Last edited by jeff 2; 07-16-2016 at 12:14 AM.

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Thats a good point, I guess I forget the difference between species. Regardless my humidity seems ok (hovering at around 45 now).
    Last edited by Mercfh; 07-16-2016 at 10:15 PM.

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    jeff 2's Avatar
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    Bonjour

    Attention, good humidity of the air, is not always a good moisture from the substrate.

    jeff

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Most people seem to mention top watering for pings? Any particular reason that they prefer this compared to say.....Sundews?

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    People mention top watering as a means to keep the moisture at a median level rather than the soak that comes with the tray method and any sort of shorter pot; Pinguicula do not like water sitting on their leaves, even less so typically than Drosera, so the watering is done to the sides of the plant rather than on top of it.
    Everything has a reason, whether big or small. Never underestimate the power of what is or is not.
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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    People mention top watering as a means to keep the moisture at a median level rather than the soak that comes with the tray method and any sort of shorter pot; Pinguicula do not like water sitting on their leaves, even less so typically than Drosera, so the watering is done to the sides of the plant rather than on top of it.
    That makes sense. Thanks.
    I have a good amount of pings coming in. So I will be repotting a lot of the older ones I have into new mineral based media. Im just trying to figure out the best watering method. Everything will be in 4 inch pots now. I figure During non-dormancy: Top watering till the water is at maybe an inch in level until it evaporates might be the best at preventing any sort of rot. But of course with 100% mineral media im not sure if that will be too "dry" (Despite them being ok when it's dry).


    Do pings show off any sort of "symptoms" of being over/under watered?

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    If you're top watering to and inch level then you're not top watering, you're using the tray method with the added risk of flooding the top ( and leaves) of the pot.

    If you want an inch of water at the base just use the tray method.
    Fred

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredg View Post
    If you're top watering to and inch level then you're not top watering, you're using the tray method with the added risk of flooding the top ( and leaves) of the pot.

    If you want an inch of water at the base just use the tray method.
    Oh I see, With Top Watering your just saying Top Water until the soil looks moist enough, but not actually keeping a "specific" amount in the tray. Gotcha....
    That seems actually "safer" to me (Less risk of rot) although with 100% mineral based media i'd wonder how easy it would be to tell how moist it should be (Since it would drain VERY well).

    Sidenote: I looked at ur media's Fredg, mine me asking what media you are using for pings. It looks quite varied.
    Last edited by Mercfh; 07-18-2016 at 02:01 PM.

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    jeff 2's Avatar
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    Bonjour

    I use this tray method ,for several years now without any particular problem, but only every 15 days, in fact, I just need substrate is always moist, not soggy like temperate.

    for the substrate to the least of peat (which holds enormously water), use a mineral substrate that provides good capillarity to the roots

    jeff

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    I ended up just going with 100% MVP Turface, and im going to top water when it looks about dry. I figure this will prevent crown rot. Hopefully this substrate is as good as people say! lol

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