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Thread: Worth it getting a Terrarium for pings?

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    I've also heard the healthier plants actually have smaller carnivorous leaves (not sure of any truth to that), but I guess it would make sense: IE getting proper light they don't need as much leaf surface area.

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    Enthusiastic Enthusiast Zath's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mercfh View Post
    I've also heard the healthier plants actually have smaller carnivorous leaves (not sure of any truth to that), but I guess it would make sense: IE getting proper light they don't need as much leaf surface area.
    If I had to guess, it's due to them getting -more- surface area while compromising with faster growth, ergo, smaller leaves that don't shade out the leaves below.

    Species has a lot to do with the size as well. Some are naturally massive, while others simply aren't. And like Grey Moss said, how mature they are plays a part as well.

    As for humidity, it's not really a concern. The plants will adapt as long as it remains fairly steady, even at a very low RH.

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    Bonjour

    My only other final question is on humidity: Any reasoning why the pings in humid climates/terrariums have WAYY bigger leaves? Or is having a lowish humidity not really a problem for them?

    do you know the name of these specie ?

    big difference in size for example between gigantea and nivalis or medusinae , big difference also on their cultivate condition.

    effect ,sizes can sometimes be attributed to the air of moisture rate. In-situ plants decrease their leaf surface and sometimes become succulent (becomes dormant) in the dry season between November and May.Dormancy for these plants is necessary, what is usually does not terrarium.

    one thing can be important for the size, the taking insects .In fact insects are their fertilizer.

    to your ping, one of the parent is a moranensis the size standard maxi for the summer leaves : length 115mm width 60 mm.

    jeff
    Last edited by jeff 2; 07-16-2016 at 12:14 AM.

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Thats a good point, I guess I forget the difference between species. Regardless my humidity seems ok (hovering at around 45 now).
    Last edited by Mercfh; 07-16-2016 at 10:15 PM.

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    Bonjour

    Attention, good humidity of the air, is not always a good moisture from the substrate.

    jeff

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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Most people seem to mention top watering for pings? Any particular reason that they prefer this compared to say.....Sundews?

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    People mention top watering as a means to keep the moisture at a median level rather than the soak that comes with the tray method and any sort of shorter pot; Pinguicula do not like water sitting on their leaves, even less so typically than Drosera, so the watering is done to the sides of the plant rather than on top of it.
    Everything has a reason, whether big or small. Never underestimate the power of what is or is not.
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    Mercfh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcarlton View Post
    People mention top watering as a means to keep the moisture at a median level rather than the soak that comes with the tray method and any sort of shorter pot; Pinguicula do not like water sitting on their leaves, even less so typically than Drosera, so the watering is done to the sides of the plant rather than on top of it.
    That makes sense. Thanks.
    I have a good amount of pings coming in. So I will be repotting a lot of the older ones I have into new mineral based media. Im just trying to figure out the best watering method. Everything will be in 4 inch pots now. I figure During non-dormancy: Top watering till the water is at maybe an inch in level until it evaporates might be the best at preventing any sort of rot. But of course with 100% mineral media im not sure if that will be too "dry" (Despite them being ok when it's dry).


    Do pings show off any sort of "symptoms" of being over/under watered?

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