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Thread: Aloe help

  1. #9
    I Am the Terror Of the Night! NemJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swords View Post
    Yes, all cacti & succulents have dormancies at some time of the year since they only come from temperate areas with seasons. In growth periods I would water every 2 weeks and once a month when they are in dormancy. Sometimes not at all on things like Conophytums until they break dormancy.

    You'll need to find out which season Aloes are dormant in - find out where yours is from.

    I grew African succulent species mostly (mesembs, aslepiads, stapeliads and andromischius). Some succulents are dormant in our summers and some are dormant in our winters. It depends where they are from.

    African species are going into their growing season now (during our winters) and the American species should be in dormancy now.
    I know that this plant is a complex hybrid, however parentage is not listed or even mentioned.
    It seems there is only one site that details anything about this plant. Looks like the original
    Breeders went off the grid years ago. Theyre saying that the origins are from Madagascar and it has a winter bloom time.
    Thank you swords, great info and you may have saved my sad plant..
    Guess its time to get gardening.
    Last edited by NemJones; 11-23-2014 at 02:11 AM.

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    theplantman's Avatar
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    Underwatering. Media too coarse. If there's no water, there's also no feeding. Nutrients need to dissolve in water before plants can absorb them. Aloes are generally pretty responsive to water and nutrients.

    Sand/perlite/turface/gravel/potting soil is good.
    Last edited by theplantman; 11-23-2014 at 07:40 AM.

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    Your aloe is not taking up water because night temperatures are too high. Most succulents are CAM (crassulacean acid metabolism) plants. Simplified, this means that they shut down metabolically (and can't use water and nutrients effectively) if they don't cool down at night. I would recommend nights in the 50s like a highland Nepenthes.

  4. #12
    I Am the Terror Of the Night! NemJones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SWAGnum View Post
    Your aloe is not taking up water because night temperatures are too high. Most succulents are CAM (crassulacean acid metabolism) plants. Simplified, this means that they shut down metabolically (and can't use water and nutrients effectively) if they don't cool down at night. I would recommend nights in the 50s like a highland Nepenthes.
    Really? You and swords are the only people that have mentioned that. Every other article
    Ive read just says that they tolerate low temps but dont need it.. Should I have this guy
    Bunk with the highlanders at night?

  5. #13
    theplantman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SWAGnum View Post
    Your aloe is not taking up water because night temperatures are too high. Most succulents are CAM (crassulacean acid metabolism) plants. Simplified, this means that they shut down metabolically (and can't use water and nutrients effectively) if they don't cool down at night. I would recommend nights in the 50s like a highland Nepenthes.
    CAM photosynthesis primarily involves gas exchange and the opening/closing of the stomata. If there is an impact upon hydration and nutrition, it's probably negligible. Generally, succulents will opportunistically uptake as much water as they can, whenever they can.

    I have grown probably hundreds of CAM plants (succulent and non-) outdoors and in greenhouses in Georgia summers. Night temps often exceed 70F. Never had a problem with dehydration. Temp drops are good for CAM plants, but it doesn't have to be drastic. 10-15F night drops are sufficient. Succulents do not need highland conditions.

    Generally, most aloes will handle light frosts. I have taken some down to mid-20s and usually lose them there. Cold tolerance in succulents is tied to a few things:
    1) how dry they are, which in turn affects the amount of water in their cells
    2) nutrient and carbohydrate concentrations in the cells, which act like antifreeze
    3) wetness of the media, which if frozen can expand and crush roots

  6. #14
    carnivorous plants of the world -- unite! DragonsEye's Avatar
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    I do not quite agree with Kevin with regards to the media being too coarse. That should be quite doable (thought a bit finer would be okay as well). However, I fully agree with him with regards to yours needing watered more often. The coarser the media, the more frequently one typically needs to water -- particularly during hot, dry days.
    "Blessed are the cracked….
    For they are the ones who let in the light."



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    Given the other crisp looking leaves on neighboring plants, I was going to suggest underwatering. Are the white rocks top dressing or the potting medium?

  8. #16
    theplantman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonsEye View Post
    I do not quite agree with Kevin with regards to the media being too coarse. That should be quite doable (thought a bit finer would be okay as well). However, I fully agree with him with regards to yours needing watered more often. The coarser the media, the more frequently one typically needs to water -- particularly during hot, dry days.
    You're right that coarse media is certainly acceptable if the plants are watered more. However, the reason I dislike extremely coarse media is that it doesn't hold very well onto nutrients. You end up not only having to fertilize more, but you waste a lot of the fertilizer, too. And additionally, as you mentioned, coarse media gives a significant threat of drought shock during a hot summer day.

    Ultimately, up to individual preference. I prefer to only check on my stuff once or twice a week.

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