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New Pics ..

Hi Singapore
Last 4 months I was busy growing many CPs from seeds.

Here is a sample view of my new collection of mostly Drosera
CopyofP1010134.jpg


For more pics please click
Here
 
Nice pics,is that a D.anglica "hawai"?
 
Fantastic work JK! I only wish my efforts are close to yours. BTW, I think your link is not working.
 
Thank guqin,
Yes it was through my log in account, I can see it, but not you.

Ok try Here
 
Now it is okay. Great job!
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JK, I am intrigued by your watering method. Could you tell us about your watering system? Looks like the bog could last a few days with the 1.5 L beverage bottle.
 
Yes, the 1.5 L "CP beverage" bottle last up to a week on sunny days and up to 2 weeks on cloudy days.

I would have to take some pics of the watering system before I can explain it meaningfully.

Right now I am busy with a congress which ends on this Saturday, let see if I could steal some time, promise to post as soon as I can.
Ok JK
 
ive always wanted to this kind of watering method when i go for holidays but i couldnt imagine how it would work. I was thinking of putting a thick layer of cotton wool/sponge at the bottle cap area so that the water wets the sponge and the sponge waters the soil but i havent tried it out. maybe you have a better method?
thanks
 
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The coned bottle cap was obtained from gardening section at Daiso in IMM (a pair for 2 S$).
There are two tiny holes drilled into the cone on the same longitudinal axis. When the filled bottle is capped and turn inverted with pointed end into the soil, and if water level in the pot is lower than the upper hole replacement air can enter through the upper hole and water is released from the lower hole. When water level come up to the upper hole, watering stops. But when one or both of the tiny holes is blocked by the soil particles watering action is not reliable, which happen several times.

The film canister with holes was mounted as shown provides a free space for proper watering action and protects the holes from blockage. But make sure that the canister does not blocks the holes.

This is my 1 $ worth of contribution. Hope it help.

JK
 
  • #10
Brilliant idea! I must do this soon!
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  • #11
AMazing! JK, you're good at innovation! What do you do for a living? I need people like you to help the kids out on their project at innovation...and give talks.

May I use your idea to teach the kids how they could make life A LOT easier sometimes by just making simple modifications and adaptations to what they have around them?
smile.gif
 
  • #12
What I do for living?
I used to be an electronic engineer, project/installation engineer, Technical Manager .... now an Account Manager i.e. a Sales Manager with a specific product/customer account, as I want to get away from all the nitty gritty of engineering and processes details. So basically I am a very DIY person with business inclination and do not like teaching job...sorry kids.
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Nevertheless I will be glad help anyone to solve simple problems of technical nature.

Yes, you are free to share the ideal with anyone.
 
  • #13
JK: great idea!! we used to have such a project in school, an automatic plant watering system, but what we thought of were using electric sensors; yours is indeed a simple and inexpensive method..
BTW, what is the original purpose of the conical bottle cap?
 
  • #14
I guess the original purpose of the conical bottle cap with holes pre-drill was for watering of potted plants, but instruction was all in Japanese. Initially it does not work out as the tiny holes were right next to the soil, causing blockages. I only real contribution was the mounting of an additional canister after other modifications failed.
 
  • #15
Would stuffing a piece of filter wool into the conical bottle cap stop the soil from seeping into the cap?
 
  • #16
[b said:
Quote[/b] (guqin @ Jan. 15 2004,00:44)]Would stuffing a piece of filter wool into the conical bottle cap stop the soil from seeping into the cap?

No, it would not work. Water must be allowed to flow freely out of the "already tiny" hole/s, soil contact with cap will Impede free flow.
 
  • #17
hey JK: the D intermediates you sent me now looks like the d intermediate that is flowering. It is about 1 inch in diameter and the leaves are starting to "stand up" like yours. I want my d intermediates to flower so i can give away too:). Is it ready to flower? This d intermediate is still quite young right?
also can it flower under 6500K lights?
thx
 
  • #18
[b said:
Quote[/b] (wezx @ Jan. 17 2004,00:26)]hey JK: the D intermediates you sent me now looks like the d intermediate that is flowering. It is about 1 inch in diameter and the leaves are starting to "stand up" like yours. I want my d intermediates to flower so i can give away too:). Is it ready to flower? This d intermediate is still quite young right?
also can it flower under 6500K lights?
thx
Hi wezx,
Do you still use imperial measurement in school? I thought we have all move to metric systems.

With proper care your plant should flower in a few months. I do not use fluorescent light for my plants, I guess since 6500K is termed daylight the light spectrum should be ok.

Most of my CPs receive direct sunlight starting from dawn for about 3 to 5 hours depending on location, followed by bright indirect sunlight till dusk. Most Nepenthes receive bright indirect sunlight from dawn to dusk.

JK
 
  • #19
imperial measurements? whats that? i don't study in local schools so i might have learnt different things...
i might add some red/warm white lights, ive heard that it encourages the plants to flower around how old are the plants you sent us? It will probably flower when it is in the season, i want to if the plant is old enough to flower at the season
thanks
 
  • #20
To complement the daylight 6500k you may use a warm white < 3500k, I can’t remember exactly how old are they, but they range from 3~4 months by now. Just be patient, it will surely flower.

JK
 
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