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Thread: Do my fish have Ick?

  1. #9
    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    Yes I got the tank two weeks ago and added fish a week later. I didn't know anything about the cycling part until I was at the pet store and the guy suggested hardy fish, like the Tiger Barbs.

    I use the drip kits, not the dip test strips. It is by API.

    I did not use anything to jumpstart the cycling process because I didn't know I had to. The guy at the store said that if I added hardy fish, that will do the trick and in 2-3 weeks, I can add more fish if I wanted.

    I honestly thought that my test kit OR the decreaser had expired because of the Ph reading. The Decreaser has an experation date and it is good till 2012. The test kit solutions however do not have an experation date on it, which I thought was weird. I looked all over the box and on the solution bottles and it is not there.

    I last checked the Ph yesterday and it had still not changed a bit. The person at the pet store said I shouldn't have to check it anymore because it wasn't going to change anyway. I'm starting to get the feeling, that the people at that pet store, don't know much.

    I will do a 25% water change today. Just a question about water....can I use distilled water? My husband's coworker said that he used distilled water for his 250 gallon tank. Would I need to use the water condition for the distilled water?

    The person at the pet store also told me that I am harming the fish by putting so much Ph decreaser in the tank, so that's why I stopped.

    No I don't have an extra tank. I wasn't expecting so many problems with this one. I just wanted some nice, healthy fish in our room.

    Thanks for all your help, Steve
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  2. #10
    VFT and Drosera lover vft guy in SJ's Avatar
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    I didn't know anything about the cycling part until I was at the pet store and the guy suggested hardy fish, like the Tiger Barbs.
    Your tank definately needs to cycle. Here is some reading on what the nitrogen cycle is and why its important. (as you can bet.. you have some homework to do.. just like with the CPs lol) nitrogen cycle


    I did not use anything to jumpstart the cycling process because I didn't know I had to. The guy at the store said that if I added hardy fish, that will do the trick and in 2-3 weeks, I can add more fish if I wanted.
    Do you have any friends with established tanks? If so maybe you can get youself some of their used filter media. That will introduce the bacteria you need to get the cycle rolling quickly. There is a product you can buy called "Biospira" I have read a lot of good things about this stuff actually. I have honestly never used it before, it is pricey, and there are many factors that can happen to cause it to fail before you even begin... BUT If its used correctly I have read good reviews on it. Personally I would see if I can get a bagfull of "seasoned" filter media for free first.

    I honestly thought that my test kit OR the decreaser had expired because of the Ph reading. The Decreaser has an experation date and it is good till 2012. The test kit solutions however do not have an experation date on it, which I thought was weird. I looked all over the box and on the solution bottles and it is not there.
    API test kit bottles do not have an expiration date on them. They have a "Bottling Date" printed on them. Right near the "Lot #" Here is what to look for: the last 4 digits= bottled on date. In this case, Feb, 07. API website says that most solutions are good for 3 years from bottling or 1 year from opening.




    I last checked the Ph yesterday and it had still not changed a bit. The person at the pet store said I shouldn't have to check it anymore because it wasn't going to change anyway. I'm starting to get the feeling, that the people at that pet store, don't know much.
    Go with that feeling. LFS employees are generally only interested in your spending money. If the fish die, thats good cause you will be back to buy more.... With that in mind.. here is some more homework
    http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article..._chemistry.php
    http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/gh_kh_ph.php


    I will do a 25% water change today. Just a question about water....can I use distilled water? My husband's coworker said that he used distilled water for his 250 gallon tank. Would I need to use the water condition for the distilled water?
    I would not recommend using distilled or R/O water in a freshwater tank. Most FW fish need the minerals and hardness that comes from tap water. Get a bottle of Amquel and Novaqua and use those to condition your tapwater and use that. Make sure that you heat the water you are filling your tank with to as close to the tank water temp as possible. Those sudden temp changes are not only stressfull to fish, but can also cause parasitic outbreaks (like ich).

    Good luck
    Steve
    There are only 2 infinite things... the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not too sure about the universe.

  3. #11
    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    Steve, thanks for taking the time to post those links for me. The first one on Nitrogen cycle is great. Looks like I have some work to do, but I will try to keep it up and not lose faith.

    I don't know anybody here in FL, so I don't have anyone who has tanks that I could borrow filter media from.

    I looked at the lot number on my test kit solution bottles and the last 4 numbers were 1207, so it was bottled in December of last year, so it should be good then.

    The last two articles are rather confusing for me. I'll try my best to understand it.

    Thanks again for all your help
    Great Googly Moogly!

    Beware of the yellow snow!

  4. #12
    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    So I got some rid-ick. How long before it starts working? Should the white spots disapear fairly soon?
    Great Googly Moogly!

    Beware of the yellow snow!

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    I don't know how quickly you should expect the Ick to completely disappear but normally when you start treatment I usually thought that in a day or two no new spots should appear and then they should start to disappear as treatment progresses and the fish start to act livelier. But it has been a while since I treated Ich so my exact memory may not be the best guide. I just know you shouldn't count on an immediate cure, it will take several days or more. Is everybody still hanging in there?

  6. #14
    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    Thanks allegedhuman I've noticed that most of the white spots have gone away, but there is still one or two there. Also, you're right, the fish are a lot livelier! I've still got all four On the back of the bottle of the rid-ick it says that I can use it again in 24 hours from the the first dose, but I would need to do a 25% water change, because I don't want to overdose. I will not do it again tonight, since I can see an improvement, but maybe tomorrow night? I really don't want to if it's not needed. The stuff stained the silicon in the corners of the tank, but I think it looks neat, lol. Thanks again for your help! So does anyone think I should do another dose tomorrow night, or should I wait a little longer to see if the first dose cured it up?
    Great Googly Moogly!

    Beware of the yellow snow!

  7. #15
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    Hey that is great that you noticed such a dramatic change so quickly with only one treatment. That just means you must have caught it nice and early. I would definitely continue treatment every 24 hours like recommended on the bottle until all spots have disappeared, and even then a bit longer. It wouldn't be really spiffy to stop after only 1 day of treatment and then have the little Ich parasite buggers which barely survived rebounded their efforts once treatment stopped and it may be harder to kill and the fish would already be weakened after fighting the infection once before and may not bounce back as quickly.

    Plus I thought that the Ich parasites have eggs/larvae/some kind of juvenile form which could survive in the tank off of the fish and even if your fish lack all of those spots there could be some "baby ich" hanging out in the tank which could attack the fish later when mature. I would check the bottle carefully and see if it has a recommended length of treatment and if not maybe check out some websites for suggestions as to how long to treat beyond when the spots disappear.

    I think of it kinda like human medication, if you are taking antibiotics you are supposed to use ALL of what was prescribed and not just quit early because you *think* you feel better...

    Really it is great that the little guys are hanging in there and acting perkier...hopefully the only damage which remains after this Ich episode is some stained silicon on the tank...(I still have a tank with blue corners too...

  8. #16
    allegedhuman's Avatar
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    Aha, here is a website on the life cycle of Ich and some info on treatment.
    http://novalek.com/kordon/articles/ich.htm

    It says to treat for 7-9 days for short lived species of Ich and some Ich species need up to 2-4 weeks! Wow, that sounds a bit extreme to me and I wonder if the company is just trying to sell more of their treatment with such a long time period, I dunno Maybe other people have greater experience with the length of time to treat but I think a week sounds reasonable if all the spots are gone. If spots still hang on that long then maybe you have one of the longer life cycle species and would actually need a couple of weeks?

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