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Thread: Do my fish have Ick?

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    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    Unhappy Do my fish have Ick?

    I noticed some small white spots on two of my fish. It's not on their body, only on their fins. I read that ick is on the body, but I only see it on the fins so far. Here is a pic. I have altered the color of the fish so you can see the spots easier. I also put "here" where the spots are. Anyone know? Also, if it is Ick, and I get some Rid-Ick for them, will it save them or is it too late? I read that once you see the spots, it is too late and the fish will probably die

    Edit: I just noticed that there is one small spot on the body of one fish.

    Great Googly Moogly!

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    I would say it does look like Ich to me. I also would try to buy and start treating with an Ich Treatment as soon as possible. The sooner you start treatment the better chance of saving the fish. If it is only on the fins and just STARTING to progress to the body right now there is a much better chance of saving the fish than if the body and gills were covered all over too. Plus I think the Ich treatment bottles you can buy easily at a petshop or even somewhere like meijers is pretty inexpensive. Especially if you have a tank of more than just those two fish, chances are the other fish would also develop Ick symptoms and if you don't treat them and lose everybody it would be alot more expensive to restock the tank than buy a bottle of Ick treatment for a few bucks ( I would guess around $5 as a rough estimate based on the last time I was fish supply shopping a while ago).

    I know another tip to try while treatment with chemicals is that Ick is sometimes caused by a drop to cooler temps so make sure your heater is working well and if it is one you can manually adjust to increase temps a little bit that is supposed to help too. My heater was not adjustable so I couldn't really try that.

    Really the only time I had Ick problems was when I bought new fish from a store only to find them a little later their Ick symptoms show. Good luck, I have never tried treating Tiger Barbs so I don't know if they respond well to treatment but I wish you the best.

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    Loves VFT's! Trapper7's Avatar
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    Thank you, allegedhuman I have four Tiger Barbs and only two have it so far. I will get some Rid-Ick asap. I do have an adjustable heater and I just turned it up. It got pretty cold here (I'm in FL) the last two nights and I noticed the thermometer in the tank was a lot lower, so maybe that's what happened. Thanks again!
    Great Googly Moogly!

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    allegedhuman's Avatar
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    I guess a temp drop or just getting new fish from a store which had less than ideal conditions already are the two most common ways to encounter Ick. I hate it

    Excellent that you can try increasing the temp a little bit just be careful you don't crank it up TOO much and cook the fish instead. I think 76 deg F is sorta a common temp for tropical fish so make sure it is somewhere in that range depending on how far it dropped due to the change in temperature but don't overdo it and end up with cooked tiger barbs...
    Maybe over several hours bump it up a degree or so at a time depending on how much it needs to be increased?

    I really don't know exactly how to handle increasing the temp but however much needs to be increased I'd do it slowly.

    Hope everybody pulls through.

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    I think they're dying. They're really not looking so spiffy This isn't good, I wouldn't be suprised if one of them will be dead by tomorrow morning. He's looking bad
    Great Googly Moogly!

    Beware of the yellow snow!

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    It looks like ick to me, but I haven't had ich (in my experience) kill a fish that quickly and I've been keeping fish for 22 years. Your tank seems fairly new, right? With the talk of bubbles on the top and with a fish dying, you need to test your water. It may not have established biological filtration yet and you may have high ammonia levels in the water.

    Just a suggestion...

    Will

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    I bought the tank and set it up a week before I got fish for it. (So I've had the tank up and running for 2 weeks now and just got fish for it last weekend). I got all the test kits for it and everything is ok except for the PH. It simply won't go down! I called the pet store twice (after putting close to 80 drops of PH decreaser into the tank and nothing happening) and they told me, both times, that here in FL we live on a bed of limerock and that everybody's PH is out of whack. They told me to stop the decreaser drops because the fish should be ok, and if after 80 drops and still nothing happening, it should be ok. Ummm....ok then. I read that these fish need the PH to be at 7.2 and every time I check it's at 7.6 or higher, because the color coded thing doesn't go past 7.6, so I don't know if it's higher. The store said I should only worry when the fish start to show signs of being ill, they didn't say anything about white spots though. Right now, the fish are looking a lot better and they're acting more frisky, also their stripes are a nice dark black again, but a few hours ago they were green-ish. I don't know what to do about the PH. It's not like the fish know they're in FL and that they are ok because the store said so. Oh, I don't have any real shells in there, so that's not the cause for the PH. I'm still going to get the Rid-Ich, but after that, I don't know what to do.
    Great Googly Moogly!

    Beware of the yellow snow!

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    VFT and Drosera lover vft guy in SJ's Avatar
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    You just bought the tank 2 weeks ago and added fish after one week?

    I guarantee that your tank is not cycled properly yet. What test kit are you using to check your water chemistry? IME the most accurate ones are the ones that use the drops, those dip and read stick ones are iffy at best.

    Did you add anything to help jumpstart the cycling process? Filter media from an established tank? Biospira? Anything? If not, you have more issues than just a possible ich outbreak. If your test kit is showing 0 ppm readings on ammonia, and nitrites, with only 2 weeks of cycle time then I would seriously question the quality of your test kit.

    I recommend the API Master Freshwater test kit, available at any of the big box pet stores (around $25-30). Make sure you follow exactly the directions on how to do each test. Some of the bottles of solution MUST be shaken vigorously for 30-60 seconds in order for you to get truely accurate results.

    When did you last test your water? On a new tank like yours I would suggest testing daily untill you get everything on track. Levels can spike quite quickly in a newly set up tank. There are a plethera of products out there that claim to help control ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, but honestly I think they are all just "snake oil".

    Test your water today. I would suggest changing about 25% of the water today. Start religiously monitoring your water chemistry. Keeping a log book of your results will give you clear information as to where your tank is going with its cycle. It should take between 6-8 weeks to fully cycle.

    Ph is probably less of a concern than you think. you can keep buffering it to bring it down, but IME that is usually more harmfull than just leaving it be. That constant up-down-up-down swing is very stressfull to fish and will ultimately kill them faster than if you just leave the ph a tad on the high end.

    Good luck
    Steve

    EDIT: One other thing. Do you have a small treatment tank where you can move the fish to while you treat the ich? Years ago when I had ich in my 10 gallon tank I used rid-ich to treat the whole tank... the treatment stuff stained all of the air tubes, UGF tubes, silicon, and plastic plants- blue. Better to stain a treatment tank than your main "show" tank.
    There are only 2 infinite things... the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not too sure about the universe.

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