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Thread: What is your favorite fresh water fish?

  1. #57

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    April is perfect for me. My tank is dormant right now, as it will hopefully be turned into a planted tank. I've never tried to hatch live brine shrimp, but all the info has been nagging at me to try. I bet the hets would love it, as they don't seem to enjoy the frozen BBS as much as daphnia(or even flake!). What temp do you keep them at? I've heard they like it on the cool side, but in Texas your tanks must warm up qutie a bit in the summer due to heat right? Im in Ca, and the temp will rise to around 75 or more in the summer. We keep the house at about 85 degrees then.

    BTw, have you seen the little brine shrimp hatcher for sale at Dr. Foster Smith? Apparently, you hatch eggs in it and the larvae swim out into your tank! It sounds like quite a sales pitch, though it would make providing the monties and hets with live food 24/7 easier.

    Also, are these(and the fry) open water fish, or are they the kind that tend to spend time foraging among the plants? I'd also like something that does that without eating fry. I've been considering either croaking, sparkling gouramis, and checkered barbs.

    Any suggestion on them?
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  2. #58

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    Hi,

    Yes, here the summer temps get high. The tanks stay between 82-84 with the glass tops closed. In my killie tanks, I fill them half way and leave the tops open so evaporation cools them to the mid 70's. Monties are suppose to like it cool but seem to do better from the low 70's to low 80's. I have had them to 68 without problems. I think mine breed well and grow fast due to the warmer temps but cool water ones might live longer but not be as prolific. Your 75 would be fine.

    Hatching BBS is easy. I would avoid the intank hatchers. That's hype. Hatch separately and feed. its quick and easy and once you get the simple basics easy.

    Monties go everywhere and the fry hide in the plants. They will go to the back when you approach but if you sit and watch out they come again. All three potential choices would be great. I love little sparklers and they become gorgeous. Croakers have amzing fins when adults and nice color. Checkerboards are always nice and cause no trouble. Cherry barbs are beautiful too. Once you get a colony of monties going you might want to add an angel or 2 to eat excess fry for poplation control.

    Bobby

  3. #59

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    Okay, I've been doing lots of research on BBS and have seen several different methods of hatching. Some places sell hatchers(which seem much to expensive for what they are). Then, there is that ol' 2 liter soda bottle method. From what I understand, you apparently drain some of the soda bottle to collect shrimp(and perhaps dump salt solution on the floor). Is there anything that is easier than that you have tried?

    Do you think the Montys would take scuds(gammarus), or are those too big? They have been finding there way all around my tanks. They're pretty amusing, and perhaps the montys could forage for those too.
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  4. #60

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    Question

    Hi Nflytrap,

    Careful with the scuds. They don't harm fish but they can eat plants. Monties probably won't eat them as they are too hard-shellled. Cichlids and Botias love them.
    Ok, hatching bbs. I use 1/2 gallon glass milk bottles that have nice little plastic tops that I poke 2 holes in, one for the airline and one to let the air escape so the top doesn't blow off. I fill the bottles with water up to the point where the bottle starts to curve to form the top -- like 5/8's full of water. I add 2 tbsp of pickling salt (purest, fasting dissolving salt) and 1/3 tsp epson salt. I have an airstone bubbling in each bottle. The air flow is strong but not boiling. I attach the airstone to a piece of 3/16's rigid plastic tubing that pet stores sell and then hook the rigid tubing to an airline going to the airpump. The rigid tubing keeps the airstone in place on the bottom. I hatch up to 2 tsp of eggs in each bottle. They take from 24-48 hours to hatch from 75-82F. I siphon some at 36 hours and the rest at 48 hours to form 2 daily feedings. Sometimes in winter I will place a 100W desk lamp a few inches from the bottles to keep the air around them warm. For siphoning, I use a 4" brine shrimp net, a light, a bowl and a foot long piece of 3/16" rigid tubing attached to a long piece of flexible airline tubing. I take the airstone out of the hatching bottle and sit the light (flashlight or any source of light) right next to the bottle. The bbs collect near the bottom and near the light. The hatched egg shells float in the bottle and any unhatched ones sink to the bottom under the settling bbs themselves. I let it all settle for 10-15 minutes then siphon. Just place the rigid tubing part of the siphon hose you made into the bottle and suck on the flexible tubing end and then put it in the brine shrimp net that is now resting across the top of a good sized bowl sitting below the level of the bottle. Let the water and bbs drain into the net while you control where you are siphoning from in the bottle -- the rigid tubing makes control easy! Siphon what you need and then pour the water back in and put the air back on or if 48 hours is up, throw it all out and reset up the bottle from scratch for the next batch. You CAN'T re-use the old dirty water. I alternate bottles every day so I always have live bbs going. Sometimes I have to use 4 bottles so I have to set up one each morning and one each night but its usually just one a day. The whole process will work just as well with the 2 liter coke bottles but 1/2 gallon or gallon GLASS milk or even water bottles work great. Anything will do that is at least a 1/2 gallon and is shaped where you can bubble it. Aquaculture supply houses sell great premade hatchers. They are plastic cones on stands that you can open a valve on and siphon from the bottom 1-2-3. There's a hobbyist 3 liter or so model that is not that expensive. Jehmco.com might sell them too.
    Hatching isn't a messy thing at all unless you are a messy guy :-).

    Bobby

  5. #61

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    I've never heard of a glass milk bottle...

    Would a medicine dropper work to catch the shrimp? How tightly do they cluster around light? My idea would be using a medicine dropper to suck the shrimp up, and then squirting them onto the brine shrimp net, coffee filter, whatever it is.

    Also, do you think a few apistos like cacautoides would harm the montys? Most likely choice would be the cockatoo as others should have soft water. Perhaps they will make use of the bigger scuds.

    Now that I think of it, I remember seeing a female heterandria formosa snatch a medium sized scud and gulp it down. Dunno how she managed though!
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  6. #62

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    Question

    Hi Nflytrap,

    WholeFoods used to sell organic milk in glass bottles. They still do but only in quarts now no 1/2 gallons but California might be different. Look around but any 1/2 gallon pitcher, vase, bottle will work as long as you can get into it easily.
    No on the eye dropper. The water is too dep and the top to small. It would be a mess. Siphoning is easy or buy the professional ones I mentioned that siphon built in from the bottom. BBS is really easy, I promise.
    Cockatoos would be a great addition. I have Nanochromis species in with mine.
    Well if a formosa could tackle a scud a monty could.

    Bobby

  7. #63

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    Allright, I'll have to try! Is buying eggs with higher hatch rates worth the money? How long do cans last?

    Today, I looked at my outside daphnia culture(which had been infested with hair algae in fall after 5 weeks of operation). I planned to let all the water evaporate to see if I could hatch any dormant cysts, but then it began to rain. My mom got my dad to move it out of the light and put a lid on it. That was January. Well, now the water was quite brown and the smell was pretty bad. There lots of wrigglers there, and I collected egg rafts and wrigglers for the hets before dumping all the stuff. I'm definelty going to rinse these out before feeding! Perhaps a less messy way for culture? Or some kinda attractant that smells less than old daphnia culture water.

    BTW, do you keep any natives? I kinda lucked out today on an awesome deal. There was a tank with feeder ghost shrimp in it, and swimming in the tank was 1 heterandria formosa and 3 bluefin killies! I bought a dollar of ghost shrimp to justify asking the salesguy to catch the bluefins. He passed them off as feeder danios, and gave them to me at 10 cents each! Its possible I will put them in my little pond with a group of hets, as I heard they do better outside. Its hard to tell since they arent wearing breeding dress, but it appears I have 2 small males and one large female.

    Needless to say, I will be carefully inspecting feeder tanks from now on!
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  8. #64

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    Jimscott,
    Thanks for the reply, sorry it's taking so long to answer you. My red-tailed fish was only about an inch long, but it died from an infection . However I got a rainbow shark to replace it. It's very shy.
    And hahaha Big Carnivour Kid, (it's actually Meg, I conned mom into it )

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