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Thread: Updates on the ivory montys

  1. #65

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    Biggun: i'm already there, though I have only posted once. I'm "Joey S"
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  2. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (biggun110 @ Sep. 19 2004,7:56)]Hi N,

    I don't think kafuensis is that hard. It has a longer incubation period but is less aggressive than other Nothos. I keep males together with not too much trouble if they are raised together. They might need a little softer water to breed than most Nothos but then so do cps.

    Sign up for killitalk and ask the Notho experts like Brian Watters.

    I have bred Betta strohi one of the mouthbrooding Betta species. I liked it alot. It was 4 inches and jet black. It needed very soft acid water and a quiet location. The species you mentioned are all so close to splendens and spawn the same way. They might need soft acid water. Try 80F. Use a half filled 10 with a bare bottom painted a dark color outside, lots of java fern and water sprite (or any floating plants). Float a 4x4 inch square of plastic wrap on top of the water for the bubble nest. Put a submergible heater in. Place the male in the tank and the female in a quart jar in the tank. When the nest is made net out the female and put her in the tank without ruining the nest. When they breed remove her very carefully and let the male tend the nest. Keep a little light on 24/7. Keep the tank covered. When the fry are free swimming (horizonal) remove the male. Feed green water and bbs from day one. Stop the green water when you see orange bbs bellies on the fry. Add snails for housecleaning. Keep the water clean and away you go.

    Wild Bettas are expensive but $8 is high for those. Check around the lybrinth (spelling?) fish sites on the web like the Anabantoid Association of Great Britain and the German Lybrinth Association. You might get better deals there. I'd look at the cocinnea/ rubrians (spellings!!) group of bubble nest bubbling Bettas.

    I agree Paradise Fish are gorgeous!

    Bobby
    I thought that 8 dollars was pretty inexpensive for those 2, but I guess they are more common than the other wild bettas. I bred betta splendens before but failed to raise a good number of fry, I blame that on the fact that I didn't try BBS.

    Are there any Nothos that are particularly suited to hard water...I think they all come from soft and acidic water in the wild?

    I will check around, but it seems that both of those sites you mentioned are in Europe...and it is hard for fish to cross the pond.

    All this talk about soft acid water makes me wish that I had an R.O unit...hehehe
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  3. #67

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    Hi N,

    I'll look for Joey S. Glad you made it. Watch for all Brian Watters and Barry Cooper postings -- great Notho guys.

    Yeah feeding fry, conditioning breeders and mastering the right water are the 3 keys to fish breeding. Live baby brine shrimp are just crucial for success unless you master raising rotifers in big numbers. Nothing is as easy or good as bbs.

    Guentheri, foerschi, melanospilus and korthusae are all good in your tap water. Most Nothos except symoensi will probably breed ok in it. Notho water in the wild seems to start out soft and acid and move to harder alkaline by the dry season. I believe in keeping them in hard water and breeding most of them in slightly soft water. With your small breeding tanks just buy bottled RO water when you want to breed or hatch. I saw the answers on killie.com to your questions -- all given by good friends of mine. The secret to fattening kafuensis females is chopped blackworms and heavy feedings while they are fry so they get big. You should see my girls -- little balls of fat (eggs). Even my old Mambova female is still plump. Most people under feed their Nothos with weak foods. Use worms, brine shrimp, daphnia and mosquito larvae. I've never had problems with Notho females. Also keep them around 74F. I don't even use salt like most do. My ways of keeping annuals are so well tested that I just don't have alot of problems. I just kind of "know" them.

    Yes, they are in Europe but check them out for links and information. Also look at this site:http://aquaworld.netfirms.com/phpBB2/. It is a good Betta Forum.

    Bobby

  4. #68

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    Compared to other fish, how often do you feed the Nothos? I use blackworms quite a bit(mainly for the sunfish and for newts), so thats no real problem for me. Would frozen bloodworms work? Mysis?

    Also, do red wiggler worms work for fish? Those ones are sold in bulk online...but I know that newts do not like the acidic secretions they produce. Also, what happens if you put worms into the blender? Chopping those into bite sized slices is very time consuming.

    Though I bet that I haven't seen the full glory of any of the nothobranchius, I really like N. kafuensis 'Kayuni' or 'Kayuni State farm'. Chunga sounds good from your description, but there are very few photos. And of course, good old rachovii cannot be slighted.

    I'm under the impression Korthausae likes acidic water? Mafia Island(A very odd place BTW, according to notho info centre) is quite attractive. Apparently, they can be wet incubated as well as dry.

    Also, how long do Nothos live? I heard that guentheri could live for as long as 18 months. How fast do they grow on a good diet?

    I know aquaculturestore.com sells rotifers. The culture methods sound straightforward...but the starters are pretty expensive.
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  5. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Compared to other fish, how often do you feed the Nothos? I use blackworms quite a bit(mainly for the sunfish and for newts), so thats no real problem for me. Would frozen bloodworms work? Mysis?
    I just feed twice a day on bbs when fry with some microworms at times and daphnia and grindals as they grow. As adults they get one to two feedings a day on bloodworms, blackworms, adult brine, grindals or daphnia. I feed blackworms daily when I want to condition breeders for like a week or 2. I ease off them when not breeding but always give some each week. I feed until they are a tiny bit plump. Don't know about mysis.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Also, do red wiggler worms work for fish? Those ones are sold in bulk online...but I know that newts do not like the acidic secretions they produce. Also, what happens if you put worms into the blender? Chopping those into bite sized slices is very time consuming.
    Red worms are great. Use a pizza cutter and small cutting board to chop them up fast after you put them in some foil and freeze them. Blending makes juice -- ugh.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Though I bet that I haven't seen the full glory of any of the nothobranchius, I really like N. kafuensis 'Kayuni' or 'Kayuni State farm'. Chunga sounds good from your description, but there are very few photos. And of course, good old rachovii cannot be slighted.
    I agree. The whole Zambian group of Nothos are so nice. If only we could get polli! Symoensi is also gorgeous but it is a tough one. I'd go with kafuensis especially since I will soon have a pair or 2 of the Mambova for you! They are a big easy Notho. Practice on them then when I get some of the Kayuni in a few months you will be ready for them.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    I'm under the impression Korthausae likes acidic water? Mafia Island(A very odd place BTW, according to notho info centre) is quite attractive. Apparently, they can be wet incubated as well as dry.
    Really, surprising. I'd bet they'd do fine in hard water though. I just don't like korthausae. I had it in 1974 when it first came in and it never grabbed me. Guentheri and Foerschi are so much pretier for the common Nothos. A good rachovii is hard to beat.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Also, how long do Nothos live? I heard that guentheri could live for as long as 18 months. How fast do they grow on a good diet?
    I'd say a year would be good. They can go for more but often less. That's why you breed breed breed.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    I know aquaculturestore.com sells rotifers. The culture methods sound straightforward...but the starters are pretty expensive
    True but its getting enough to feed twice a day every day!

    If you will return it I can loan you a dvd program on breeding Nothos by Bob Morenski that is excellent -- lots of good pics and good information. Just study it and return it by November as I need it for our club.

    Bobby

  6. #70

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    Dvd sounds great! Let me know when the Mambova are ready. What should I have prepared. I don't think I will be getting any fry for 5 months?


    We don't eat pizza that much, but I can sure visualize the carnage and effectiveness of this little weapon. Dunno if they sell them at the dollar tree like some other cheap cooking utensils. Have you tried a worm bin by any chance, or do you just buy your continuously?


    Also, is Kayuni unique in sporting such a wide rounded tail?
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  7. #71

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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Dvd sounds great! Let me know when the Mambova are ready. What should I have prepared. I don't think I will be getting any fry for 5 months?
    Send me your address again would you. I will send the dvd. The Mambova should be ready in about 2 weeks. They are sexing out nicely now. I am seeing more of the reddish males. The incubation is 5 months at around 75F.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    We don't eat pizza that much, but I can sure visualize the carnage and effectiveness of this little weapon. Dunno if they sell them at the dollar tree like some other cheap cooking utensils. Have you tried a worm bin by any chance, or do you just buy your continuously?
    They could have one just be sure to get a sturdy one. A razor blade in a holder or a sharp knife works just as well but the pizza cutter just seems safer to me. I have all the stuff to raise red worms but haven't set it up. I buy them at times or dig up earthworms.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]
    Also, is Kayuni unique in sporting such a wide rounded tail?
    Nope, that is a kafuensis trait and its a beauty. Mambova is the largest form and the old males get a small "cichlid" hump on their foreheads.

    Bobby

  8. #72

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    Awesomestuff! Guess I've got a lot to look forward too! Most of the pics showed only Kayuni with the wide tail.

    For rewetting the peat after the eggs have hatched(talk about foresight to about 6 months later) how long do you incubate the eggs before wetting them again for a second hatch?

    Also, for living quarters, should the female and male be seperated except during spawning?
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

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