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Thread: Fundulopanchax sjoestedti

  1. #57

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    Wow Dustin, you've been really getting some hard knocks lately to both you and your companions. This isn't going to go on forever I'm sure-you will see the light at the end of the tunnel soon.

    Bobby:

    Thanks for the writeup! I've got some BBS eggs crawling over right now and have the tank set and ready. If I'm fortunate to raise enough to make it neccessary they will be moved to a ten gallon tank. The Chunga bags hatch date seems inconvenient due to a 2-3 day trip coming up so I will probably go with the Kayuni ZAM 97/9 . How do you go about removing the peat from the fry tank?

    I will also be making another attempt to get fertile eggs from these blue gularis. They refused last week to use a large bowl and I had lost my brine shrimp net I couldn't look in the peat outside the bowl......... so I'm going to go ahead and use peat as a substrate and leave em for only a few hours since thats how they seem to want it. The female is getting fat-all those bloodworms have got to go somewhere!

    To the interest of Dustin one of my montezumae females is looking very plump. Also, I've now got a total of 3 females!(whoot!). The 3rd is still young. The males also are attempting to mate with many of the little juvies which are running around. I'd like to think that means more females for me. Funny how I often view the dull females more precious compared to the beautiful young males.

    The bluespots are still being reluctant to spawn. I'd like to think they are perhaps spawning without me knowing it as the ten gallon they are in is packed full of plants.

    Also, Rick(who I sent the Nhangua Mtn N. orthonotus to) has successfully hatched them and is raising a few fry. According to him they were very cannibalistic so he lost many of them to that. He's still got lots of eggs to rewet so I'm quite sure he's going to succeed with them.

    Also, someone on another board had offered to ship anyone that wanted small portions of pennywort. I decided to jump for it. He included a few extras much to my surprise. I got Babys tears, Rotala(dunno how this is going to do long term), Hydrocotyle, and most interestingly a portion of monoselenium tenerum(aka "Pellia". I sure hope this plant works for me! Said to produce big clumps on driftwood with larger, darker green fronds compared to riccia.

    Those Mambova sure did grow up fast! Good luck with the symoensi!

    Hope all is well for both of you.

    ~Joseph


    Edit: 8 oz of supposedly Grade A 80% BS eggs arrived in the mail but they were labeled as 90% premium grade. Whether it was on purpose or a mix up, I guess its for the better if that is really what the eggs are. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula 'Red Dragon'(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  2. #58

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    Hey Guys!

    Boy is that a BEAUTIFUL FISH! The Reflection is a cool effect too!

    Thanks for your kind words. Things are starting to look up. I got a new guy helping me with apartment repairs, so I may actually have 5 minutes a day to look at the tanks [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]

    Hope that female Monte turns out [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_m_32.gif[/img] I just got these Hets from Doug, and I really think they give the Monte's a run for their money, the strips are georgous!

    BabyTears is a great plant. Last year I had a MASS in the 125 gal. when i pulled it out of the corner finally it was about 2 ft wide and as tall as the tank, which I think is about 18 inches! I sold it to the lfs... I probably shouldnt have , but it was taking up a HUGE amount of swimming space for the fish, it was that thick! They couldnt even swim into the mass.

    I had some Tetra's spawn in the dense growths of the 125 gal. last year. I suddenly had 2 tetra fry swimming around. Those were very unexpected! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img] Of course 1 or 2 out of how many eggs? The hatch / being eaten / survive ratio wasnt the greatest Im sure.

    Pellia looks great, like I said in the PM at petfish - I really hope it works for you! Just make sure it gets enough light! Do you add Trace Elements to your tank, Or do anything special for the plants?

    Bobby - Joe tells me you have several strains of Mollies? I just got some Wild Sailfin Molly from from Florida (I think joe did too) and Would like any advice you have on keeping mollies alive! I usually have little luck with them. Is it important to add salt to the water?

    Thanks! Hope you are both well!


    Dustin
    <a href=\"http://www.goodeids.com/\">
    http://www.goodeids.com/banners/gotgoodeids_banner.gif</a>

  3. #59

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    Maylandi: Nope, didn't get any mollies in my shipment of stuff. I'm just popping in really quick. Bobby is keeping 2 species I believe(pertensis and velifera).

    Dustin and I both got fish from someone in FL. Maylandi got mollies, but we both got the following

    F. chrysotus(golden topminnow-females are probably one of the most attractive female killies, my male is a bit tattered in the fins but should come through just fine.) Both sexes have brilliant gold spots on the bodies with a greenish background. Male has red spots and reddish fins. Edit: Male has settled in well but the female is a bit aggresive so I'll be moving the female to isolation.

    Jordanella floridae: I'll be keeping a close watch on these guys as I hear they are odd and can be aggresive sometimes. Maylandi ended up with 3 females so perhaps I would be able to send eggs/offspring to him. The larger male and female are now a pair and keep close and nudge and flirt with each other regularly as they keep close distance in the tank.

    and Elassoma evergladei(5)
    Everglades pygmy sunfish. These guys are the same size as Heterandria formosa! I've got mine in yet another critter keeper hoping they will do well for me. Really interesting little fish and the males should develop a dark color with spangling later on.

    I will be hatching the N. kafuensis hopefully next week(providing the eggs are obedient).

    Edit: The Kayuni decided not to wait. Some of the eggs are showing that gold iris everyone talks about. Will be running test run of BBS right now and if all goes well I'll be dunking them.

    Let me know how both of you are doing!
    ~Joseph
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula &#39;Red Dragon&#39;(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  4. #60

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    *insert drumroll*

    I ended up using a method described by another killie keeper while compromising with yours. I used distilled water mixed with tap and water depth approx to your instructions but I put the peat in a container(the original Notho spawning bowl) added a few bits of gravel and carefully sank it into the critter keeper. Then I went to bed. Sure enough the next day fry were bobbing around in the water! I'm not sure how many I've got but it isn't a big number. I suspect maybe 20 or so. I'll leave the peat container in for some time longer and then remove it and redry(though I doubt many eggs will be in it, all of them I saw were eyed up). I've fed some BBS and they've eaten it.

    So far things look off to a good start. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]

    ~Joseph
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula &#39;Red Dragon&#39;(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  5. #61

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    Hi Nflytrap and Dustin,

    great news on the eggs. There may be more eggs in there so redry and wait 3-4 weeks and try again. This idea of putting a smaller container of peat into a larger hatching container is brilliant. I will steal it -- why didn't I think of it years ago?! You're research paid off well! Good job.

    The fry can hatch out over 2-5 days so wait a bit. After day three start adding small amounts of hard water and you're on your way. Feed bbs twice a day. Keep the water clean. 20 fry will be fine in 2-4 gallons of water for 2 weeks easily. After that move them water and all to a bigger tank. Just pour the contents into the larger tank and start filling it up over time. You may want to add a tsp of salt per 2-3 gallons to help you. Dissolve it first and pour it in. Good luck.

    I have P. velifera and petenensis as far as mollies. Mollies need room, many water changes -- big ones -- like 75% twice a week, good strong filters and tons of feedings. They do not need salt. Give them protein foods (worms, shrimp, etc) and veggies. Mollies are demanding because they require as clean of water and the room that discus need. Most people won't put that much trouble into livebearers. Latipinna is the hardest molly to keep healthy. Petenensis and shenops types are the easiest.

    Bobby

  6. #62

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    Hate to bring bad news but the kafuensis fry from this batch all dissapeared on Sat/Sun. The water developed a film which I find really unusual. Its fortunate both for in the wild when the rains come at the wrong time and in the ownership of a first time killikeeper that some of the eggs choose to wait longer. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]

    I have 2 options as far as wetting goes. Either wet the 'Chunga' I was originally planning to trade out or wait 3-4 weeks and give the Kayuni ZAM 97/9 another shot.

    I'm thinking that perhaps I added a bit too many BBS(not too sure what is considered the correct amount but I hatched a tiny sprinkle of eggs and was unable to harvest all of them). The fry looked well fed. Have you ever tried putting a light on one side to draw the BBS to a single area to better keep track of numbers? Someone on killitalk suggested adding salt to the hatching tank...which according to him lengthened the BBS lifespan to one day in the water.

    Another possibility(seems less likely)would be perhaps eggs that came in with the BBS. My harvesting skills/method was far from perfect.

    Some things to change.
    1. I had a small airpump running which perhaps was not needed as I noticed it made feeding a bit more difficult.

    2.Feeding: I'll definetly have to cut down on feeding for these first 3 days.

    3. Or perhaps even practically eliminate feeding and let the fry live off of Java moss microfauna?

    4. On the other hand...I've got a daphnia tub in high gear right now(everyone, esp. pygmy sunfish love them). I've heard you can put daphnia into fry tanks and the parthenogenically produced baby daphnia would provide food. Comments? This carries the risk of introducing hydra but the tub which is manageable size is clean to my knowledge.

    5. Water changes: I'm sure it wouldn't hurt the fry to do small water changes with mostly distilled water before the 3 days.

    Suggestions would be most helpful!

    ~Joseph
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula &#39;Red Dragon&#39;(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

  7. #63

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    Hi Joseph,

    Sorry to hear this but raising fry is a learning curve.

    1. Get the air out of there. You definitely do not want that at all yet.

    2. it is ok to add 1 tsp per gallon of rock salt/aquarium salt to the hatching water.

    3. The film will develop. Use a plain paper towel gently laid on the surface and then pulled across the top to rid the water of the film.

    4. Feed green water for 2 days.

    5. Feed bbs 2 times a day and just enough to make the bellies of the fry orange.

    6. Add snails after day 2 or 3.

    7. to help siphon bbs, take the airstone out of the hatching jar and put a flashlight or lamp next to it and the bbs will run to the light. Get a piece of rigid airline size plastic tubing used in UG filter lift tubes and attach airline to it to use as a fine siphon to siphon the shrimp out into a shrimp net or hankerchef. Restart the bbs cultures every day alternating 2 jars so you always have some.

    8. hatch the fry in at least a gallon of water. Don't let them get cooler than 72-74. Shine a light on the fry daily to check for the golden sheen of velvet disease.

    9. small water changes are fine. I'd use a mix of 50% RO and 50% harder water.

    10. I put adult daphnia in my fry tanks after 3-5 days to produce babies and to filter the water organically.

    11. Use lots of najas and java moss in hatching container.

    12. Go ahead and hatch the Chunga and see and then try the Kayuni again in a month. The guy I gave my Mambova peat to had a big hatch on the second wetting and even sent some of the peat to Bulgaria.

    Raising fry is getting the feel of it over time. Better to underfeed a bit as long as bellies look orange and better to hatch in more rather than less water. Don't add air for at least 2 weeks. Just start adding small amounts of fresh water after day 3. Keeping trying, you will get it. I will try to get the book I copied off to you. I have just been so busy and now my car is in the shop.

    Bobby

  8. #64

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    Thanks for the advice! I will keep you updated on how things go.

    Should the fry have food in front of them most of the time but in small amounts?
    1 Nxventrata

    D. muscipula & D. muscipula &#39;Red Dragon&#39;(barely)

    Sarracenia leucophylla(seedling)

    S. purpurea and Drosera filiformis filiformis/ intermedia seeds waiting to sprout.

    Drosera capensis

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