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Thread: Water purifiers

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    nepenthes_ak's Avatar
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    Ebay has pleanty for 1/3 or more off common prices...

    But i was wondering if a water filter like PUR or Somthing along those lines would work ok? Does any one know the PPM in one of those?

    Cheers

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    War. War never changes. Est's Avatar
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    The general response to this question is: No.

    I've never done any testing or anything, and it wouldn't hurt to do a search on the forums to see if anyone has. You could even check the manufacturer's site to check for TDS levels. Though, I believe that you may still need to let the water site for a while to let the chlorine diffuse out. Hope you find some good info; be sure to share your findings. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
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    It's been one of dem days BigCarnivourKid's Avatar
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    Most of those types of filters are just for for filtering contaminants like rust and some chemicals out of the tap water. Most of them tell you what they filter out on the lable somewhere. They are just carbon cartridges usually, though I have seen some that have a mineral stage (3 stage Pur filters) to them to add minerals back into the water for flavor inhancment. They don't purify water enough for most CPs. You need an RO system for that.
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    nepenthes_ak's Avatar
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    They say what... and im looking for something that says what its PPM is (parts per million) the CP E-book out by Cobraplants says it should be below 100... and I will probably stick with a R/O or R/I system....
    Thanks &
    Cheers

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    I'm using Brita Maxtra filters (apparently "4-stage") and have been doing so for the past 2 years, until I get my first useable gallon of RO water from my new unit today.
    So far, no ill effects on the plants themselves.

    Cheers
    Amori

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    It's been one of dem days BigCarnivourKid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] (nepenthes_ak @ Mar. 07 2006,4:37)]They say what... and im looking for something that says what its PPM is (parts per million) the CP E-book out by Cobraplants says it should be below 100... and I will probably stick with a R/O or R/I system....
    Thanks &
    Cheers
    You're unlikely to find anything that says PPM on these units (faucet filters). They only filter out the big stuff. Mine filters out sediments and "99.99% of the microbial cysts Cryptosporidium and Giardia" and "reduces lead, asbestos and mercury." The carbon filter will also reduce the chlorine. If you want something to remove 99.99% of the disolved solids then you need to be looking at an RO system or something similar.
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    nepenthes_ak's Avatar
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    I really dont know much about water systems this would be why i am asking Thanks I will be googling until some one can help me out... Would an Aqarium R/O system work? I would figure so be cause it has R/O And R/I both in it. But i would rather not pay for the R/I stuff.

    Thanks again
    Cheers

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    DI .. deionizing

    RO Reverse osmosis

    You are correct that many of the aquarium units have a DI cartridge also. Overkill for making water suitable for carnivorous plants.
    I would search for a 3stage TFC membrane RO system. What you are looking for is a Sediment prefilter, Carbon block prefilter and the TFC RO unit (tfc = thin film composite). You don't need any carbon post filters or DI post filters. A good TFC RO membrane will remove 95% of whatever minerals in your water and should give you water around the 5-10ppm range easily. Some cheaper units will be 2stage. They combine the Sediment prefilter and Carbon prefilter into a single cartridge. Personally I would avoid them. UNLESS you have very clean tapwater and can simply just replace the cheap combo filter with a good carbon block prefilter. If your tap water is clean it won't get clogged. But it will give you much more more protection than the cheap combo filter the 2stage units use. The carbon fyi is there to remove chlorines.. you NEED a good carbon block filter if you use tap water treated with chlorine or one of the newer chlorine compounds.. they will quickly destroy the RO membrane if they get to it.

    On a side note.. consider at least a 50gal/day unit at least. Even though that sounds like alot. Most RO units will not give you what they say because of pressure and temperature differences in your personal situation. The price difference between a smaller 10-20g/day and a 50g+ should be very minimal anyway.

    Tony
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