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Thread: r/o unit ?

  1. #9
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    If your water source is very clean of particulate matter then you can use a single carbon block as the prefilter. It will trap sediment in place of a sediment prefilter and also do the carbon filtering. The only drawback is if your water source has alot of sediment it will clog the carbon block prematurely and the carbon block is much more expensive to replace than a sediment filter.

    Tony
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  2. #10
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    The extra carbon block won't filter anything the carbon block prefilter would filter. A simple 3 stage will be more than pure enough for any plant watering needed. But if you plan to drink it and the source water is contaminated by hazardous bacteria or virus then the UV is needed as it wouldn't be 100% safe to assume the RO is removing ALL the pathogens.

    I would recommend a 3stage as I mentioned in my previous post and a UV if you are planning to consume the water and pathogens hazardous to people are present.

    Tony
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  3. #11
    Capslock's Avatar
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    I bought mine on ebay and it's almost identical to this one:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/AQUA-SA....iewItem

    It was the same seller, who I found to have excellent customer service.

    Capslock
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    My photos are copyright-free and public domain

  4. #12
    larry's Avatar
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    Capslock, that's very similar to the one I bought from him, except mine is a 6 stage. Great product for the price. Instructions are horrible though. His jokes aren't funny, and confuses the reader too. Best advice I can give for installing this unit is, throw out the instructions and hook it up like the photo.
    larry
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigflytrap/
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  5. #13
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    Hi everyone.... Today was my home's RO system maintainence day... When all my plants were here, not only did I use this sytem for myself to drink, but also all the plants.. Becuase it got so much use I do 3 maintanences a year (every 6 months is typical) Anyway, today while getting this done, I decided to take some pictures, to not only show WHY you should have RO for drinking water.... But to further support my 2 carbon block rule for drinking water...
    First of all, lets talk about how dirty our incomming water is... (Yes, I am on Tucson water.... Not some local well or anything.... it is ran by the City.)
    As I remove the sedament filter and 2 carbon block filters and drain the water that was in the bowls I set all of this in a 5 gallon bucket.... (the bucket ends up being about 1/5 - 1/4 full... so some of the junk has been washed off of the sediment filter due to splashing...) Have a look at what this water looks like.....



    Ewww.... And this is a picture of the top of where the sedement filter screws onto the system:



    Further EWWW!!! LOL...

    Now for the main reason to post... Although with one carbon block you're water does get ample contact with the carbon... have a look at the filters after being removed... (Keep in mind, the water flows in the middle of these filter through the media then to the outside where it flows to the next stage)

    They go from left to right: Sediment filter; carbon block ; carbon block....



    Although not "too bad" you can still see some of the yellowing color that was on the sediment filter over on the 3rd carbon block... So I'm happy that that filter is there helping out. Otherwise all that of which has built up on that stage... Could have gotten further in my sytem... to the membrane, the final 10' filter or maybe even out the faucet... I've actually thought about cutting apart the final "polishing" filter just to look, although I assume (and hope!) that filter would be perfectly clean.
    Oh, and you want something to compare those filters to? How about the new filters... Here is how white they are when new....



    The choice from here is yours. But I'm glad I use a 5 stage for my drinking water. Maybe I should even go get a 6 stage lol....
    Have a nice day.
    Andrew
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  6. #14
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    Oh, and BTW, the whole filter kit cost me 32.25 delivered from watts premier (2 day shipping!! lol) and takes under half hour to do. So there is NO reason to not do this 2 or 3 times a year to get it working perfect.
    Andrew
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  7. #15
    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Just a note first. The water always flows from the outside to the inside of the filter.

    Well those are spiffy picks alright but they don't prove anything. First I never said anything about 2 carbon blocks for prefiltering. My comments were that a POST carbon block was a waste and not necessary.

    Now my thoughts on having 2 carbon blocks prefiltering. The fact that there is a little sediment on the 2nd block means nothing. The sediment filter or the 1st carbon block are not capable of catching 100% of any sediment coming in. There is always just a little sediment that is too fine for such filters to catch effectively. So the fact that there is some sediment on the 2nd is not surprising. If you had 3 or 4 you would still see some sediment on all of them as well! The main point though is that the carbon block is not there to catch sediment. While it is handy that it does catch some and reduces the potential for clogging the RO membrane, the 1st carbon block will catch all the dissolved organics and chlorines etc that it is suppsed to catch. These are things you will not see in the water that drains from the filter when you change them.

    If your water is particularly high in chlorines then the 2nd carbon block might be a good insurance for protecting the RO membrane. This is the main purpose of the carbon block.. remove chlorine so the RO membrane doesn't get destroyed. It does also remove other organics and stuff but in reality it doesn't NEED to since the RO membrane would remove them anyway. If your water is not that high in chlorine perhaps you would be just as well off with 2 sediment prefilters and 1 carbon block? You could get a 5micron sediment, 1 micron sediment and a .5micron carbon block. It would cost less for filters and I seriously doubt your RO water would be any less pure.


    Tony
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

  8. #16
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    I decline your explanation and substitue my own, since you are wrong. LOL
    Jking-
    Thanks for your views on it. From the best I can find... this "kit" is a 5 micron sediment, and 5 micron carbon blocks... So whatever is on the 3rd has gotten past 2 5 micron filters alredy. I do think I may try the dual sediment or even a sediment, 5 micron block, 1 micron block and check that out... Like I said, I have no CPs here anymore- so all this will be for normal household use now... ( 75 gpd membrane is prolly overkill here now.... LOL) BTW- I don't know what the "main job" of a carbon block is, but it does remove more than just sediment and chlorine... "The second stage of filtration is the carbon filter, or filters which reduce volatile organic chemicals, chlorine, and other taste and odor causing compounds." True though that the membrane is the "work horse" of the RO system.
    Which brings me to membrane maintainence!!! (Maybe this can be something Tony will agree with me on, and maybe even admit to learning something...?? )
    Be sure to flush your membrane every couple of months. It will keep it "healthy" longer. I try to flush mine about every month or two. There are 2 ways to do it. 1 you can do without buying anything.... Just turn the water supply off, then dissconnect the line from BEFORE the flow restricter, and then turn the water supply back on, while running the water from the line into a bucket. The fast flow past the membrane will flush away the bad stuff getting stuck to the membrane.
    Another way is to build a "flow restrictor bypass" All you need is 2 quick connect Ts and one quck connect shut off valve. And some extra poly line. after shutting off the suply water, cut the poly line on each side of the flow restrictor leaving about 2-3 inches. put a T on each side and reconnect to the lines that were there. Then take some of the poly you bought, and connect to one of the ts and run it over to the other T. Cut that in half and put in the shut off valve. When it is time to flush the membrane, you just turn that valve on to bypass the flow restrictor. And turn it back off about 3-5 mins later to resume flow though the restrictor. I can get a picture if anyone needs one on what that'd look like.

    Thanks Tone man !!!!
    Andrew
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