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Thread: R/O Unit Problems

  1. #1
    ChronoKiento's Avatar
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    R/O Unit Problems

    So I got a spiffy new (and expensive) r/o filter because I was sick of having to buy cases and cases of distilled water from the grocery store. The filter worked fine for like.. a day. It gave me a little bit of water and some leaks sprouted, so I fixed the leaks. Then I checked a few days later and the TDS had gone from 7 to 53 and currently it has been fluctuating between 132 and 60 (132 is HIGHER than the TDS of the water without being filtered) so I contacted the tech support from the place that I bought it and they've been next to useless. They rarely ever even reply to my emails now and I'm getting pretty frustrated since I've had to give my CPs water with 60+ppm water. So those who are experts with r/o units.. please HELP!!!
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    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    If it's leaking, take it back. That's ridiculous. Since they had bad customer service, request a refund and not a replacement.

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    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    Chrono, have you got a pressure gauge,

    the best way to troubleshoot one is to just get all your measurements and go from there, its one of those Occam's Razor thangs LOL

    most critical is the pressure at the membrane inlet with the outlet at full flow

    and can you determine your brine ratio and rejection ratio as well?

    curious as to why TDS would be higher on the output, I know this is a no brainer but are you possibly using the waste water output instead of the permeate output?

    sorry, but i had to ask

    Av

    ref this previous thread
    Last edited by Av8tor1; 07-26-2007 at 12:11 PM. Reason: add url

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    Zero's Avatar
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    sounds like it's not hooked up correctly.
    how much did you pay for it?
    Is it the typical 3 pre filters and a r/o filter?
    maybe you could show a pic of how it's hooked up?
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    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Who did you purchase from? ROs rarely leak sounds like incorrect hook ups.

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    ChronoKiento's Avatar
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    I have no idea how to get the rejection ratio.. I'm not using the waste water output, I know that (but I did double check. :P) Everything on the membrane case came pre-attached.. so I don't think I messed anything up there.

    I do have a pressure gauge, but I don't know how to use it.. do I just.. unhook a connection and place the tube inside the gauge?

    In order to get the brine ratio, I'd have to unhook the waste line from the faucet and measure how much comes out when I flush the system, right? Then I have to compare that to the amount of water that goes to the tank. Oi.. this stuff isn't easy.

    I'll get those measurements ASAP I won't be able to get them right now though.

    Why do I have a feeling that this is because my step dad (who helped me install the r/o unit together) didn't follow the (horrible) directions?

    Edit: This is the one I got... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=005

    I will get a pic when I take the required measurements. The leaks that I had were just because I needed some teflon tape (my step dad actually used silicon) on the threads for the elbows and junk. There was one on the output from the DI filter and one on the tank.

    Also, I can't send it back. They only have a 3 day replacement offer. I don't even think I had it connected within three days of getting it.
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    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    Three day replacement? That's ridiculous and if you would have said that's as long as they'll accept returns, I would have told you that's a big clue on the quality of the product.

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    OMG h8 pings MrFlyTrap2's Avatar
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    Who's the maker of your TDS meter? The brand I bought had huge problems (3 duds in a row). Water would keep getting sucked into the electrode and giving me false readings. Instead of 4, it would say 80, then 130, then 30, etc. I had to take the meter to another unit to verify the same behavior.

    Also if you use a bladder tank, the tank might need to be flushed. (Filled then emptied) Most of these tanks are for just normal water and might have dust and things like that from manufacturing, they are not made in a clean room or anything fancy. If you have a tank, it might have a cutoff valve, turn it off let the filter run and look at the reading coming out. If it's more normal then you know that'd the part that needs to be flushed. Also let the filter run for a while, take a reading every 15 mins and see if it's getting lower. If that's the case, then your system probably needs to run for like an hour to get it down to it's normal level.

    Mine leaked too, one fitting needed to be tightened and the canisters needed an extra umph to get a good seal going. But I've been very happy with mine once it got into a normal working habit.

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