Fish in my tank
Well I have a 55 gallon tank with water an airstone,grate,preset aquarium heater set to 78F and CPs. Now if I make the water up to the grate almost then add aquarium gravel then some free floating small tropical oxygenating plants.
What fish could I keep in those temsp if I kept the water clean,well changed and so on. The water will be acidic though since there will be some runoff
Could I keep some easy aquatic bladderworts that like heat maybe with the fish(whatever fish goldfish whatever likes warm but is hardy)
I just thought I could make it look cool like add some glass beades into the jars with water then some gravel,fish and cool fish.
Crappy pic sorry bad picture
idk youmight get more responses in the aquarium section.
Your 2 main problem problems, from most important to least, are:
1. Lack of circulation. Keep in mind that the only reason the air stone "oxygenates" the water is because it causes some small amounts of water to rise to the surface with the bubbles. The more water that is disturbed on the surface, the more dissolved oxygen your water will have in it. Water that doesn't have a lot of dissolved oxygen won't hurt your plants, but it can potentially kill fish.
2. Lack of places for nitrifying bacteria to colonize. There will be a large amount of ammonia in your water from extra fish food, the fishes' "respiration", etc. You need nitrifying bacteria (specifically nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) to oxidize that ammonia into nitrite and then from nitrite to the far less toxic nitrate, which would need to be removed through water changes. These bacteria need a surface to colonize, they are no free floating in the water column. Generally, this surface is provided in the various media in an aquarium filter. Having aquatic plants would remove trace amounts of ammonia and nitrites/nitrates but you would still have to change the water every once in a while, a pain in the *** when there are plants sitting on top of the water column.
If you are willing to change the water every couple weeks or so (be honest with yourself here), a betta fish, B. splendens, might be a way out of most of these issues. They don't respire as much as other fish, and can tolerate poor water quality. As for the problem with dissolved oxygen, betta fish are anabantids, meaning that they have a labyrinth organ in their head. The labyrinth organ allows them to take oxygen from the atmosphere (the air), as well as oxygen provided through water passing over their gills. Feed no more than 4 or 5 of the tiny pellets a day, or you will be overfeeding and thus create more waste in the tank.
The temperature won't be an issue as long as it doesn't drop too far below 70 degrees, and the Ph won't be an issue unless it gets down below 5, which it won't.
Sorry for the long explanation but it sounds like you don't have a whole lot of aquarium knowledge. Good luck!
I have minimal knowledge I realize that you need something for the biological filter to grow. I was thinking aquarium gravel since then water changes would be lessened.
So I guess I would need better circulation,cultured gravel(could I put in some pond water for the bacteria for colonization ?) I was thinking that free floating or fixed oxygenating plants would help along with another airstone(it is a dual output pump) then maybe a water filtration circulation system. I did some measuring it is about 20 gallons of water so I think size is not a problem. The heater is on 24/7 for my intermediate nepenthes so heat is not a problem , I have been looking at guppies since you can have a few fish without fights but then I need more filtration and other things. If you have fish suggestions or a simple idea for a setup I'd love to hear it. I have no problems changing water I'm home schooled I have lots of time for a every few week change.
Thanks for helping the aquarium newbie
The easiest way to have an aquarium is the japanese Natural Aquarium style which is lots of live plants and few fish, using a small filter merely for water circulation, lots of light on the tank an maybe cO2 infusion supplied by sugar & yeast fed through the airstone. In this setup the plants gobble up any nutrients expelled by the fish - water is almost cleaner coming out than going in. All excess waste is removed by trimming the plants and waving the water changing syphon over the soil/gravel (but not drilling into it). This was the fashion in which I kept a bunch of aquariums before i got into terrarium plants. I had Utricularia gibba infesting my aquariums before I knew what it was. It grows in a natural style aquarium wonderfully - I cursed the stuff for infesting my beautiful manicured plants! Then after I got into CPs (and rid of the aquarium) I read about Utricularia and finally found out what that "worst string algae ever" was that I had torn down a tank for to get rid of it. So Utric does well in a brightly lit, heavily planted aquarium with Co2.
Unfortunately the stacked aquarium shown here doesn't achieve the same level of mini-ecosystem of the japanese setups. The plants ontop will block the light for any aquatics you wish to keep "low light" or otherwise. Look up "Natural Aquariums" and "Takashi Amano" on google and you should find some info, or look for the Nature Aquarium World books by Takashi Amano on amazon or at bookshops - not a lot to read in the books (tons of inspiraional aquariums though) so if you can read them for free that's best! But essentially, fill the tank with live aquatic plants (real aquatics, NOT tropical plants sold as aquatics like most of the aquarium plants at petsmart and petco), use peletized clay substrate, supplemental aquatic plant fertilization, bright lighting (4+ bulbs) and a dozen or fewer fish and some ghost shrimp as clean up agents.
One cautionary tale for you:
I never use a heater because one night I came home and even though the lights were out on the tank I could tell something was wrong, so I felt the glass and it was hot. The heater stuck on and boiled all my fish, the temp was so high it was off the thermometer. I had one baby blue ram cichlid left alive but he only survived a day or two in my neon tank. If you have your planted aquarum setup with 4+ lights overtop your water will naturally be the right tropical temps and the heater will become unnecessary. The water will hold the heat overnight until the lights come back on in the morning, and no surprised boiled fish!
I have light a 4 foot 2 tube 80 watt setup,I like that idea alot since I only want a few fish seriously like just a couple guppies at the most but I will have to research what plants I could use and I am sure U.gibba will do well. I was reading that they rip you since they sell plants that will live for awhile aquatically then dieoff so scientific names are my best bet/a specialty shop. I went into a aquarium shop they had alot of fish and kept lots of corals and salt water tanks they must be serious I was reading awhile back about a water garden since well it just sounds nice and I did do some slight reading on lots of plants water light then a few amount of fish. This sounds great then I need maybe 2 more airstones or 2 a very large ones then the correct media then plants then finally nitrate nitrite cycling plants.
The co2 infusion could be done it would be kinda fun and light well I stated that the lighting should be good.
Do your research - you have the internet so get those keyboard keys clacking on google. Don't assume any shop knows jack! Most are struggling and will sell you anything if you are gullible to believe it. Start by reading fish keeping web sites geared towards aquatic gardening and "natural aquariums".
That's what I was talking about, plants that die after a little while because they are not true aquatics but tropical houseplants sold as aquarium plants. To avoid that order your live plants off the intrenet when the weather gets better that way you will get real aquatics. Or get a book on aquatic plants and shop with it and don't buy anything not listed in it.
When you have thriving plants you will not use any airstones/air pumps except to diffuse the CO2, airstones/fast water movement will detroy delicate plants. When your plants have good light you will see bubbles forming on the leaves and eventually floating to the surface. This is your plants performing photosynthesis right infront of your eyes. This will only happen if you have bright lighting and after the water is depeleted of CO2 it will only happen with bright light and CO2 infusion.
To make a DIY CO2 reactor drill a hole in the lid of a 2 liter soda bottle big enough to fit standard 1/8" tubing into the hole. Silicone a picee of airhose about 4-6 feet long silicone in place on the other end attach an airstone and sucker to hold the hose in place. Unscrew lid let dry. in the bottle add 2 cups of sugar to 1 liter of warm water, shake like crazy until it's disolved, add 1/2 teaspoon of dry active yeast to frothy sugar water, shake like crazy again and replace the lid put the bottle underneath your aquarium andput the hose with airstone and sucker into the aquarum at the bottom by the soil level so the co2 has to travel the whole height of the tank before it reaches the surface, this gives it more time to disolve, if the bubbles get hung up so much the better-they'll disolve slower. the empty space in your bottle is where the CO2 gas collects as the yeast eats the sugar and the gas will be forced up the hose and into your tank where the plants can get it. Don't use glass bottles for your reactor incase the hose should somehow clog, you'll have an exploding glass grenade!