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Thread: My RO/DI unit experience

  1. #1

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    RO/DI unit experiences

    Well after a lot of searching I finally decided on one and hooked it up tonight. I took a shot at one that seemed nice for the price and so far I'm very happy with the results. Being in a high clay zone our water is naturally high in minerals so I figured the DI filter wouldnt hurt to add in order to get the cleanest water possible.
    I hope this helps a lot of you guys that are debating on one, so far after 1 night the results are great IMO.
    The only downside I find to it is that clean water is a tad slow to come out but that is the case with all units. That is just the process of RO in general. This unit claims to get about 1-2 gallons an hour. I believe the ratio is 4:1 waste to pure.
    It's very light and compact, and as you can see I placed mine on top of a toilet in our un-used 1/2 bath downstairs. It connects directly to the faucet through an attachment and comes with tubing as well as a plastic valve for on and off control.

    I *so far* highly recommend the Mighty Mite simply due to the price ~$130 and the results ( from 262 ppm to <.01). Replacement filters are $33. It's an overall save for me as I was going through 6 gallons a week and needing more most of the time. The same company manufactures another model without the DI filter, but for an extra 20 bucks it's worth the investment.

    System: RO/DI Mighty Mite
    Manufacturer: Air Water & Ice
    Price: ~$130 including shipping
    Results: Dropped from 262 ppm to <.01 ppm
    Weight: 7 lbs
    Number of filters: 4
    Rate: 1-2 gallons per hr
    Ratio: 4:1
    Replacement filters: $33
    Block or granulated: Granulated Carbon filter



    Here is the after math and the difference in water quality, sorry for the low light conditions.
    Hope this helps some of you!







  2. #2
    swords's Avatar
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    Looks... well like a plugged on RO looks! I wish there were a simple way to hide 'em and still use them. Mines in my kitchen taking up the dishes drying area, after 6 years you'd think I wouldn't even see it anymore but there it is!

    If yours is in a basement that's good, incase you forget to check it in time. I'm on the second floor and have forgotten mine a couple times before, flooding my own kitchen but luckily not the folks downstairs! I know mine takes 2 1/2 hours to almost fill a 5 gallon pail so now I always set a timer for 2 hrs for an empty pail so I always have the jump on it.

    I suggest poking the drain hose into the sink drain just incase it should get a surge and spring out on you and dump the waste water out all over, which will flood the room a lot faster!

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    haha yup that's what the black tube in the sink is, the drain hose. Of course only after I figured out that *to drain* meant TO the drain and not to drain the system XD I'll have to insert into the drain now to prevent those surges. It was a nice little to clean up before I realized where the tubing was suppose to go :P

    Even with the lack of instructions, I was able to finally figure everything out and hook it up being a first timer. I'll be using those empty 2.5 gallon plastic water tanks to fill. Hopefully I can do a couple of those on weekends and be set for the weeks.

    Swords: What does your water pre-filtering read and how often do you change your filters? I was planning to change the filters only when the PPM starts reading high but I dont know the effects that it would have on the membranes.

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    If you are on municipal water then it is very important to replace the carbon prefilter on a regular basis. The carbon filter is there to remove chlorines that would punch holes in your RO membrane. They are usually rated for how much total water can go through the membrane before replacement. For example say you make 5 gallons of RO water and you have 20 gallons of waste each week. That's 25 gallons a week etc. With such low usage I would probably opt to replace the carbon every 6 months just to be safe. The sediment filter if you are on clean municipal water will probably last years... although you can tell when that needs replacing as your water flow through the unit will slow noticeably as it clogs. Or simply replace it once a year and be happy.

    The DI post filter on the other hand you can tell by using the TDS meter. When the water starts to creep up in TDS to 10ppm or so then you know it's time.
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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    Thanks a lot for the feedback Tony, and yes I am using minicipal water straight out of the tap.

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    Tony Paroubek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Paroubek View Post
    They are usually rated for how much total water can go through the membrane before replacement.
    Woops that should say how much total water can go through the Carbon Filter before replacement.

    Just as a side note. If you have a choice, go with at least a 5micron sediment filter. 1micron is even better and carbon block over granulated carbon in the carbon filter section.
    Is that a Nepenthes in your pocket or you just happy to see me?

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    Lover of Mountains nightsky's Avatar
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    Reviving this old thread to find out if you still like the system french3z. I'm runnimg through about 15 gallons a week, and this would be much easier than running to the store. It would save me money also.

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    Hi Nightsky: I love this system, to this day (about 3 months) I've yet to replace any of the filters, my water still tests at 0 ppm. I expect within the next 2-3 months it will be time to replace the filters (according to the manufacturer).
    I run through no less than 6-8 gallons a week. I accidentally left the thing on over night and let the jugs overflow a few times so I highly recommend using a timer when you turn it on.
    The replacement filters are not too expensive but I cannot comment on how easy/hard they are to replace since I've not had to replace mine.
    I highly recommend it!

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