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The table saw is the law!

I got my table saw today along with a ruled blade depth pusher stick with 90* handle and a holder for installing/changing blades without cutting your fingers. Will be setting it up later tonight for use tomorrow but I have some questions for owners of larger saws.

I was wondering if it can be used year round out in the garage? Does it have a necessary starting temp (have to use indoors in winter after it warms up) or can I just leave it standing in the garage and run out there whenever I've gotta cut something any time of year? It is portable but heavy duty and sturdy so I'd rather leave it where I put it than drag it up and down a dozen steps.

My garage is not heated, it's just one in the middle of a row of six or eight joined two car garages. I share with the family downstairs who uses their side for storage, like most residents.
 
I've run table saws in very hot, very cold and in between...they always start right up w/out any issues.

Keep the metal table coated w/ a lubricant when not using to prevent rust from forming.
 
Thanks good to know it can stay out in the garage - the cats hate my jig saw and drill, just imagine the table saw! :D

Can I use WD40 or silicone spray to keep it lubricated or do I need something else? I know the garage is pretty harsh on metal cos my medieval weapon collection from my Renaissance Faire working days look like they're almost real antiques after being in the garage for some years. I definitely don't want the saw to look like them. I have left over 4mil painters drop plastic I can put over it too or will that trap humidity where I don't want it?
 
electrical motors dont have many problems in cold weather so long as it isnt bitterly cold....even when it hits -60*F here my unheated but attached garage doesnt drop below 10*F...

DO NOT use WD40 for a lubricant, it is penetrating oil not a lubricating oil atleast not long term.....use what ever the manufacturer recommends and stick to it....
 
yes i use mine at all temps too it stays in the work shed which i only heat the front corner for a couple plants till summer , its always worked well, I have used it as low as 25 and as high as 100. you should be fine.
glad to hear you took the plunge :-D, you ll be building all kinds of things in no time.
 
I agree with all the others on temps. I've got a 220v 3 hp (or 5?) beast - it runs whenever I want it.
Keep the metal table coated w/ a lubricant when not using to prevent rust from forming.
I originally did this but it wore off easily and also sometimes left marks on the wood I was working. :nono: A coating of car wax works a lot better (or something similar). It lasts longer without the downsides....
 
wax works well......its what i use on some knives that get stored more than used like my bigger hunting knives that arent much use outside hunting season when im gutting animals and breaking down carcasses.....
 
gun oil also works well.
I use it on my knives.
It's thin and spreads well.
 
depends on what your doing.....i use oil on the pivot point of my knives and a light coating of it now and then to the stainless steel knives......high carbon blades, wax works better especially if they are gonna be stored for months and ignored....

BTW if yah wanna save money, motor oil works just as good as "gun oil"......ill often use the 10W-30 or 40 i use in my Jeep for guns or knives cause its handy and rare that i dont have some around :D know alot of guys in Alaska and the PNW who hunt in the rain alot just use regular motor oil cause its cheap and works just as good.....
 
  • #10
Thanks for the input guys. I'll get some car wax as that's what the manual suggests. It also says to get some dry silicone lubricant for a large set screw that appears to lock down the motors alignment, says not to use grease or oil on that part. What is "dry lubricant"?

Since we're on the subject of polishing knives/guns is there any way to restore my renaissance weapons? All were hand forged by faire smithies - they aren't corroded yet but looking pretty rough.
 
  • #11
dry lubricant for my presses is graphite.....not sure what dry silicone is....never used it.....

depends on what your doing a certain patina is often desirable......got pics so i can see exactly what your describing?
 
  • #12
I guess the part is the height regulating bolt and I imagined the "dry silicone" bit, it's just "dry lubricant". I've never lubed my drill press so I guess I'm due for some anyway!
 
  • #14
Can you pick that up in stores or do you have to order online?
 
  • #15
online is the only place i have seen it, not sure where you would find it in a store......furniture restoring place maybe?
 
  • #16
DO NOT use WD40 for a lubricant, it is penetrating oil not a lubricating oil at least not long term.....use what ever the manufacturer recommends and stick to it....

Its not even a lubricant by design, it was developed by NASA in the early days of the space program as a water displacement (formula #40) for electrical circuits. (hence the WD-40)

It can actually damage some class 2 friction bearing materials...(like those probably used by your saw) There are much better lubricants, solvents and corrosion inhibitors out there.

save the WD for drying out wet distributor caps and plug wires

Av
 
  • #17
WD40 is for helping break loose something and not alot else......around the shop i use lithium grease, 10W-40 motor oil and graphite depending on what i need.....had some real cool synthetic oil my business partner gave me from his other business but i misplaced it......not sure what in the hell it was but a lil went a long ways, loved it for rifle triggers and firing pins......
 
  • #18
Got the dry graphite today and looked at blades. A new model of fine tooth carbide specifically for PVC, laminate plywood, wood and melamine (all the stuff I'm likely to want to cut) was $60 for a 10" blade. The 8"circular saw blades rated the same speed or higher with the same size mounting hole that can handle the same material are only like $20. The manual says I can use blades smaller than 10" but does this mean I can use an 8" one for the circular saw?
 
  • #19
not sure what you mean circular saw is this a diff saw than the table saw , and if yes then yes you can use your blades in different saws .
wow 60.00 sounds very expensive , might check ebay .
your very good at finding deals there , better than i, anyhoo.
 
  • #20
A circular saw is the hand held one that takes the round blades similar to a table saw:
http://images.google.com/images?q=c...ent=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi

I got a 10" 36 tooth carbide tipped combination blade with the saw but the manual says a finer toothed blade will give smoother cuts and Home Depot had that one for those special materials, but I wonder how much better the cutting really is, $60 better worth? I will be sanding the cuts anyway....
 
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