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Thread: Need help with couple nepenthes

  1. #1
    instigator thez_yo's Avatar
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    Need help with couple nepenthes

    Most nepenthes I can just dump into my growspace and they grow on their merry way, but a couple I'm still having trouble with so I'm here soliciting advice if anyone has any. Here are my misbehaving plants with descriptions:

    N.sp Doorman's top #2:
    It barely has 5 leaves on it, maybe thinking about making a pitcher. It grows slow as molasses, and is just generally angry. If it's in full sun, the leaves turn red and when not it goes back to green. I can't get it to grow any faster than villosa and that's saying a lot. I coffee'd it 2 months ago and it's in an lfs : perlite mix, gets 70's by day and low 60's by night. Humidity...considering it's still just a big rosette a year later of the same size (maybe 3" across), it should be pretty high so close to the soil. Anyone successfully grow this one and can give me pointers?


    N.muluensis:
    Same conditions as the above N.sp Doorman's top#2, and I swear it's shrinking when it was actually bigger earlier in the year when it was warmer during the day and night, which is strange considering it's supposed to be good and solid highland. It would be an exaggeration to say that it's even penny sized.


    N.macfarlanei:
    I've had it for a year and ... well, it's put up a basal and gained some height, but looks like it wants to die and definitely doesn't look vigorous. Same lfs : perlite mix, plenty of direct sunshine, not so great humidity but it's pretty hard - temps are again 70's day and 60's night. For a month 3 or 4 months ago it was making tiny pitchers and looking happier but now it's kaput again..


    N.campanulata:
    Same conditions as the above plants...doesn't look bad but isn't really growing and hasn't made a pitcher for me yet. The N.tenuis I got in the same shipment as it is growing like a weed in comparison so I'm not sure what's up. It wasn't growing when it was warmer earlier in the year either - high 80's by day and a struggle to hit upper 70's by night. Is it really slow to acclimate or something?


    N.burkei:
    Same as campanulata, doesn't look bad, but doesn't do anything. And I really want to have a nice burkei because they have such nice spots


    Any advice is appreciated.

  2. #2
    Tastes like chicken! Exo's Avatar
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    I find that macfarlanie, and anything with macfarlanie in it, grows best with night temps of 50-55F.....any warmer and it nearly stops growing all together. So cool and very humid conditions are best for this one.

    N.muluensis....I suspect that that it may be the same as macfarlanie.....needs to be cool at night and pretty humid.

    Doormans top.....in this case, you may actually need to keep it warmer. I have heard that this one is VERY hard to keep happy, and the most successful growers keep it as an intermediate, with day temps of about 80F and nights of 65F.

    N.campanulata....not sure....I hear that they grow well with oyster shell in the mix, but I'm not sure if it's neccessary or not. I'm sure there is somebody around here that knows more....

    N,burkie......looks like it needs more light, and possibly more humidity....from what I've heard they like it fairly moist and humid.
    Some days it just isn't worth chewing thru the restraints.

    My growlist: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...255#post961255

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    Raven01000's Avatar
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    I grow my N. macfarlanei in regular household humidity and temperatures are usually in the low 70's or high 60's with a slight drop at night. It pitchered like crazy for a while and had just started to gain some size, but I recently rearranged my growspace and now it is stalling due to an increase in light. I think maybe it's just very slow in every sense of the word, and it needs a lot of time to adapt to new conditions.

    I wish someone on here who grows N. muluensis would have commented on this. I was thinking about getting one, and it's a species you don't really hear much about.

  4. #4
    Let's positive thinking! seedjar's Avatar
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    Well, this is advice I give all the time, so forgive me for sounding like a bit of an evangelist. LFS and perlite can become kind of a heavy mix. Have you unpotted any of these plants to check the conditions of the roots? Soil compaction may be a culprit; your plants look to me like they're showing the same signs of stress that mine used to, before I switched to more airy media and net pots.
    Net pots let you load up on watering and, as a result, sunlight. You can leave your plants in shallow water trays (so long as the grow space isn't too cold/stagnant/shady) and get a nice humidity boost that lasts far longer than misting or any other non-automated method I've come across. With the first two plants I tried it on - DeRoos' Alata and a big mix of N. sanguinea forms - I was able to keep them pitchering throughout the winter in the same room as my wood stove. If you've never lived in a house with a wood stove, it's a very dry heat - averaged about 25% RH, by far the driest environment I've attempted Neps in.
    Here's a short read on Nep cultivation that I found on Barry's site back in the day:
    http://web.archive.org/web/200504040.../faq6010e.html
    It's not up on the new FAQ because he lost the original document, but I found this on the Wayback Machine and sent him a link the other day... hopefully he'll post it again.
    Also, you've been around enough to probably have seen this already, but it's worth linking: http://www.nepenthesaroundthehouse.com/
    I get those dry/sunburned looking leaves when my plants aren't getting enough water. An obvious reason for this can be underwatering - another would be low humidity (or the associated problem of too much heat from sunlight.) But one you probably wouldn't expect is overwatering; if Neps are in fouled or compacted media and kept wet, root rot can prevent them from taking up water, making them appear thirsty when in reality they urgently need repotting first.
    As for the specifics of each species, I'm not much help in that regard. N. macfarlanei gives me grief too, but then I've had it in the same two-inch-square pot of cedar bark since I got it in a trade back in '06 or '07, and the grower I got it from had never repotted it after getting it from the nursery... It came to me as a refugee because the grower couldn't keep it cool enough, so I'm just proud it didn't die. :P
    ~Joe
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  5. #5
    Nepenthes101's Avatar
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    Haven't grown any of the others except for Campanulata. I keep my Campanulata indoors now on a South window sill and its starting to grow very nicely. So I assume it grows best as an intermediate.

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    instigator thez_yo's Avatar
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    OK...thanks for the ideas guys.

    I've visited Joel's house to get a better idea of what to do with outdoor cultivation in So.Cal. and honestly his mix is heavier than mine so that's not the problem imho...it really must have been heat stress for the couple-months-hot for a lot of them because they've magically just perked up. Maybe they'll just be my canaries

    I only know one person who had a decent sized N.mulu before but it died for reasons I can't remember right now... I guess I'll just keep wingin' it.

  7. #7
    Let's positive thinking! seedjar's Avatar
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    Heavy how? LFS and perlite are light in terms of weight but if you water through and give them time they can compact into something that has very poor air circulation. Oxygen at the root zone is a significant limiting factor for Neps. You might get better results by substituting orchid bark and peat for your LFS.
    ~Joe
    o//~ Livin' like a bug ain't easy / My old clothes don't seem to fit me /
    I got little tiny bug feet / I don't really know what bugs eat /
    Don't want no one steppin' on me / Now I'm sympathizin' with fleas /
    Livin' like a bug ain't easy / Livin' like a bug ain't easy... o//~

  8. #8
    instigator thez_yo's Avatar
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    For pots 4" and under, it's lfs : perlite that dries out solid over the course of the week, for anything larger it's lfs: perlite: orchid-mix-stuff (bark, perlite, hydroton balls i think, charcoal maybe too). Also, everything got repotted 2 or 3 months ago so there hasn't been enough time for compaction to be occurring.

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