How is your big system doing?
How is your big system doing?
---------- Post added at 05:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:34 PM ----------
i guess mine is about 7-8 yrs old now.... membrane #2 still
does my cp's, ultrasonic humidifiers, ice maker, coffee... etc
Only way to go IMHO
I am back with questions
First of, a week ago I became a happy owner of this system:
I bought one with booster pump because during summer the pressure drops very low.
Anyway, I am in the process of installing it under the sink and ran into a slight complication:
-From all diagrams and explanations seen here I was under the impression that torage tank should be setup so that it collects water after it passes through DI filtration stage and the flow diagram that came with the system (below) shows that my system would have two outputs, one after DI stage and one after Inline cabon filter (last stage) that goes to RO faucet. The tank would, it seems, bypass both stages and collect only RO water that would pass through one or the other stage only when the tank is emptied. Am I correct or did I misunderstand something in the diagram?
May I reposition the tubing so that water goes through DI stage first and only then goes either to tank or directly to Carbon filter?
P.S. Also I'm going to position the DI filter vertically despite the diagram and pictures of a comlete setup. Water passes through DI from the top correct?
Yeah, I don't know what that double tee is for in that diagram. I have mine set up (and it's set up in Butch's footsteps) so that the line tees off right after the DI stage. From there, it goes either to the tank or through the carbon filter to the output. When you open the tank, the water runs from there, through the carbon, to the output. Some captive air bladders can give off VOCs, hence wanting to run it through a carbon stage as the very last thing the water encounters; any VOCs the water may have picked up in the tank get pulled out by the carbon, hopefully.
EDIT: Mmmm, I guess maybe they're figuring if you aren't using water from the tank, you don't need that last carbon stage, hence passing it with the double tee setup. Seems a little overly extravagant if you ask me.
And yes, definitely position DI vertically, and water flows from top to bottom.
Gill, marketing gimmic I would guess.... I see no real value in having the two outputs..... in fact there may be a slight chance of unwanted back flow through either filter stage 5 or 6
I dont think I would recommend it
Connect as instructed in the threads mate, last thing before the output should be the final carbon stage to remove any VOC from bladder, place Tee after DI stage to remove everything left before it enters the bladder
Last edited by Av8tor1; 03-17-2012 at 02:42 PM.
@Kyle and Av8tor1
Thank you very much for your prompt replies! The system was reconnected so that the flow passes through DI before going to inline carbon filter or into the tank.
It works. I get 2ppm in the output.
I was hoping though that the booster pump would be "smart" enough to turn off or on triggered by the increase in inlet pressure when water is on. So that I won't have to turn it off or on manually each time. But then again how would it know to do so if the filter is used in a well setup. Oh well can't have everything
I also wonder how to go about filling the tank completely. The flow on the output is still pretty slow even with the booster pump. It seems that the only way for me to know when the tank is full to measure how long it takes to fill a gallon and just divert the flow for that amount of time x4.
Is there a possibility that there might be a rupture somewhere if lets say the tank is full, and the booster pump keeps pushing the water in, building the pressure up?
I apologize if the questions I ask sound dumb, this is my first time using this kind of a filter.
Gill, did you get a manual booster pump kit or the kit with pressure switch?
Pressure switch kit: http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/NEW-BPK-PS-DI-DWK.pdf
manual control kit: http://www.spectrapure.com/huds/NEW-MO-BPK.pdf
if the bladder is ruptured, you will not have stored energy in the form of a compressed gas. Errrr..... in other words the tank pressure will drop almost immediately.
Not sure I understand, can you draw how the booster pump is connected and if it uses a pressure switch or not.
My diagram is for a permeate pump, that is s different critter all together.... dont connect a booster pump up in the same fashion. Use the links i just posted.
The system came preassembled with a booster pump like so:
The pump is installed after the sediment filter but before the carbon filters (if I remember correctly, I will check if it is important). I will also check again how the pressure switch and solenoid valve are installed/connected.
The booster pump assembly itself (http://filterdirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=97) includes a pressure switch actually. The product description says this:
When you shut off the dispensing valve or when your own float valve closes, the automatic shut-off valve shuts off the water feed and drain, so prevent wastage of water going to drain. And if you have your own large container and float control valve, this system would turn ON/OFF automatically to refill your container..
and this is taken from their entry for the separately sold pump:
After installing Pump assembly, the RO system will be controlled electronically by the solenoid valve and pressure switch, so when tank is full or reaches 40 psi, the pump will shut-off and the solenoid valve would turn off the water supply. This is a better system than RO without pump since the pressure switch is much more accurate than the auto-shut-off valve in standard RO.
So when the tank is full (pressure reaches 40psi) the pressure switch will turn off the inlet water via solenoid valve and shut down the pump it seems. So I just need to keep the tank's valve open all the time and inlet water running all the time to refill the tank automatically and shut down (with dispensing line closed).
The same should apply if the tank valve is closed right? The switch should turn off the pump if the valves for both tank and dispensing line are closed (the pressure will reach 40psi quick and trigger the switch).
But the switch would not do anything if there is no water in the inlet (and dispensing/tank valves are open), pump will just run dry correct?
My apologies for such a lengthy reply, I was trying to see If I understand the working of this setup.
only got a moment.... will think more deeply into this later..... me in class
butttttttttttt typically, the booster pump would go after the prefilters and prior to the membrane. One of the benefits is boosting the membrane pressure to 50-60 psi for rated efficiency.