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Thread: Yet another RO unit thread

  1. #17

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    If that's the case, you may want to invest in a very low gpd unit. Quality of the unit (and initial filters/membrane, which are standard and can be replaced with higher quality later, if desired) shouldn't be an issue as they're all pretty much just plastic canisters, gaskets, and JG fittings/tubing. I'd forget the drinking water option (pressure tanks create a less efficient environment) and invest in one or two (round) rubbermaid cans (with tops to protect purity). Your housesitter will then be able to lift the lid, fil a jug or watering can, and go to it, easy as pie. A float valve will prevent overflow. A couple of 2" bulkheads, some silicone, and a small lenght of PVC pipe will daisy-chain them together, also lending to an open ended system that can be added to easily, as needed, especially if you put ball valves between cans.

  2. #18
    Kyle's Avatar
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    My understanding is that the permeate pump solves the issue of equalizing the pressure across the membrane and, thus, low efficiency with a tank. And I think I might be pushing my limits (space-wise) with a 4.5 gallon tank, let alone some rubbermaids. While that would obviously be ideal, I just don't have anywhere to put that much stuff, unless I want to hike up two flights of stairs from my basement to the plant room carrying jugs of water all the time (which, I assure you, I don't, LOL).

  3. #19

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    Oh crap, I just remembered... I need to soften my tap for my Discus tank, but didn't want to go with reconstituting water. Soooo... this being a temporary situation, like yours, I went with filling the tank with tap and then rigging a pump to recirculat through a "Tap Water Filter" (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals). $30. It's just a DI, so long term, not cost effective. But, short term, with a faucet adapter included, it might very well work for you and be a lot cheaper than an RO unit.

    ---------- Post added at 12:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by _ReApEr View Post
    unless I want to hike up two flights of stairs from my basement to the plant room carrying jugs of water all the time (which, I assure you, I don't, LOL).
    ROFL, same situation here, I just ran the RO up to the tank (one floor) on a tee for top-off, but eventually moved said tank's sump through the floor to the basement (much quieter). Anyway, for the record, if the RO is in the basement, you CAN run it up 10' vertical to a holding bin, if you wanted or needed to do so.

  4. #20
    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    Reaper...

    Exactly, if you dont go with the pressurized holding tank then do not get a permeate pump, it is beneficial for captive air (Accumulator) tank based units only

    Your installation requirements may trump some of the other considerations... but you have enough understanding to make the right call based upon your specific needs mate

    Regardless of the system you choose, if I can help just hollar

  5. #21
    Kyle's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for your help, guys.

    Upon closer inspection, I think a holding tank will fit fine under the sink - they're smaller than I thought. So I think I'm going to go ahead and get one with a tank and I'm waiting on that seller's response regarding adding a permeate pump for me. I'll let you know how it goes.

  6. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Av8tor1 View Post
    If you are going to use it for cp and general use then a captive air tank is a very nice feature to have.... that way you have a few gallons ready on demand. Without the captive air tank the flow rate will be rather low.

    Next step up from that is a permeate pump, this will extend prefilter life and increase system efficiency
    Spectrapure is definitely a good brand, but neither of the two systems you posted would be what i would recommend for cp use (as packaged)

    You can get a lot more bang for the buck IMHO

    I have no personal experience with the KS unit, but looking at it from an engineering point of view i see several issues that would make me leary of it.

    Plenty of threads on this subject, run a search...

    Of course this is just my opinion based on my experience


    RO/DI/PP/High pressure ASO system:
    blue = permeate
    blk = prefiltered water
    yellow = brine
    red = fresh water inlet
    white = bladder tank
    clear = system inlet and outlets

    Nice
    L'imagination est la clé de la logique de la pensée, une plus grande vérité éternelle.
    Me

    Formerly Plantea

  7. #23
    Kyle's Avatar
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    So, here's the news.

    To add a permeate pump will cost an extra $55 (plus another $15 if I wanted them to install it - which I'm sure I'm fully capable of). That seemed high to me, but I don't know anything about this stuff. Does that seem reasonable?

    The auto shutoff valve is at 60%, but I can have them change it to 90% for $10, which is probably worth it. I assume the number is simply the capacity of the tank at which it shuts off? For an extra $10, it's probably worth the extra 30% capacity, if that is the case.

    So, essentially, to have this unit with a permeate pump and a 90% ASO valve would cost me $217. Does that seem pretty reasonable to you?

    Thanks, yet again. XD

  8. #24
    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    Yeah, thats not bad at all...

    One thing i would recommend when you go to install it, mount the DI chamber vertically instead of horizontally.

    As the beads get used they shrink.... if you mount it horizontally it will "channel" and flow across the beads instead of through them

    15 to install a PP?... yeah skip on that LOL, the pump itself is at least 45 plus shipping anywhere you go
    so 55 shipped isnt bad

    you will have a nice high performance system that should last many years
    Butch

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