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Yet another RO unit thread

  • #62
run the unit and capture both the waste water and the "clean" permeate water

what is the ratio of these two volumes.... should be about 4:1

run the unit till you get about a cup of clean permeate and then measure the waste water volume
 
  • #63
run the unit and capture both the waste water and the "clean" permeate water

what is the ratio of these two volumes.... should be about 4:1

run the unit till you get about a cup of clean permeate and then measure the waste water volume

Oh yeah, I've tested that before..just wasn't aware of the term....last time I checked, which was a few months ago, the rate was roughly 4:1, depending on water temp (I got a slighly more efficient rate with warm water)
 
  • #64
you will, water temp has a major influence on membrane efficiency...

when you remove your old filters, do you see signs of them being compressed and evidence of sealing aorund the central core?
 
  • #65
you will, water temp has a major influence on membrane efficiency...

when you remove your old filters, do you see signs of them being compressed and evidence of sealing aorund the central core?

You mean the prefilters?....no signs of the carbon block being compressed, but there seems to be sealing around the hollow "core" that runs through the center of the cartridge...you can see where it seals at the top and bottom of the filter...where the rubber o rings are.

Also...another strange thing...the new carbon blocks seem to work for the first couple of gallons after I install them, but after that chlorine shows up in the water...so they work at first.

I actually contacted the company that makes the RO unit, and even they were baffled.
 
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  • #66
well brine rate good, prefilters sealing good.... only things left are the prefilters themselves and the water

If you have a lowe's nearby, try getting your next prefilters there... they have a 3 filter kit of one sediment and two carbon block.

Ive used these for years with great service....

Using them would be using a known variable
 
  • #67
well brine rate good, prefilters sealing good.... only things left are the prefilters themselves and the water

If you have a lowe's nearby, try getting your next prefilters there... they have a 3 filter kit of one sediment and two carbon block.

Ive used these for years with great service....

Using them would be using a known variable

Hmm..I'll see if my lowes carries them..thanks. :)
 
  • #68
FWIW The concentration of chlorine required by law in the United States is 0.2 ppm, the prefilter rating should be based on this level

Can you use an aquarium test kit and verify the household supply level?
 
  • #69
FWIW The concentration of chlorine required by law in the United States is 0.2 ppm, the prefilter rating should be based on this level

Can you use an aquarium test kit and verify the household supply level?

Huh...well...either my test tabs are broken, or my life is in danger, because according to the color chart that goes with the test tabs..my levels are nearly 1.0ppm.....assuming the kit works properly.

I don't currently have a aquarium kit, but I can get one if need be.
 
  • #70
Exo, your water company may be using Chloramine instead of Chlorine...

Typical carbon will still remove it only not as well, if that is the case you would be better off with something like this:

http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-ChlorPlus-carbon-filter.asp

---------- Post added at 08:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:51 PM ----------

Huh...well...either my test tabs are broken, or my life is in danger, because according to the color chart that goes with the test tabs..my levels are nearly 1.0ppm.....assuming the kit works properly.

I don't currently have a aquarium kit, but I can get one if need be.

Owie, well in theory that would cut fliter life by a factor of 5
 
  • #71
Exo, your water company may be using Chloramine instead of Chlorine...

Typical carbon will still remove it only not as well, if that is the case you would be better off with something like this:

http://www.filtersfast.com/Pentek-ChlorPlus-carbon-filter.asp

Ahhh..I see....I though it was chlorine because I've found that if I fill a five gallon bucket with the tainted RO water, put an aquarium airstone running in there, and left it for 2 days, it tests negative for chlorine.....hmmmm

Either way....I'm assuming that getting that prefilter may be a good idea anyway...it should take care of it regardless.
 
  • #72
Mmmmm. The only valve I can find on it does allow me to blow through it both ways. But the auction says it included a check valve on the membrane product side. >.>;; Am I missing something here?
 
  • #73
Mmmmm. The only valve I can find on it does allow me to blow through it both ways. But the auction says it included a check valve on the membrane product side. >.>;; Am I missing something here?

Do you see a valve installed in the membrane houseing at the permeate outlet?

It may take more pressure then you can manually apply to get it to seal...
 
  • #74
I think I found it. I think it's inside the 90 degree elbow that comes off the membrane housing. That particular elbow looks no different than the others on the system, but I unscrewed it from the membrane housing and looked into it and there's a little metal bit in there on what looks like a spring. No matter how hard I suck or blow (thought this was a family board...), I can't get air through it. So I'm assuming it takes more pressure than my mouth can provide to get it to open. Is my logic here sound? I can take a picture if you'd like.
 
  • #75
no pic needed, sounds like it to me

---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ----------

Ahhh..I see....I though it was chlorine because I've found that if I fill a five gallon bucket with the tainted RO water, put an aquarium airstone running in there, and left it for 2 days, it tests negative for chlorine.....hmmmm

Either way....I'm assuming that getting that prefilter may be a good idea anyway...it should take care of it regardless.

When I google your model I get a unit with two prefilter stages. With that in mind and the fact that Chlorine/Chloramine is your primary issue, I would install that prefilter in both stages. They are rated at 1 micron so that is way more than adaquate for sediment as well.

Av

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

Exo, I checked the 2008 records for your water district (newest I found online) and they report an average Chlorine level of 1.5-2.2 mg/l (basically 1.5-2.2 ppm)... with a maximum permissible limit of 4.0mg/l

the report I read gave no indication of Chloramine use...

but you are obviously having issues... dunno mate, 2008 was 3 yrs ago

I can smell the chlorine in my tap water, yet I have never had any similar issue with my system... in fact if you look at the color of the clear inlet hose to the color of the waste or permeate hose in my system you can clearly see the difference. The inlet hose has yellowed from the crap in the water while both the waste and permeate still look new.

(Lowe's prefilters)

I definitely wouldnt keep buying the same prefilter you currently use
 
  • #76
no pic needed, sounds like it to me

---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ----------



When I google your model I get a unit with two prefilter stages. With that in mind and the fact that Chlorine/Chloramine is your primary issue, I would install that prefilter in both stages. They are rated at 1 micron so that is way more than adaquate for sediment as well.

Av

---------- Post added at 11:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 PM ----------

Exo, I checked the 2008 records for your water district (newest I found online) and they report an average Chlorine level of 1.5-2.2 mg/l (basically 1.5-2.2 ppm)... with a maximum permissible limit of 4.0mg/l

the report I read gave no indication of Chloramine use...

but you are obviously having issues... dunno mate, 2008 was 3 yrs ago

I can smell the chlorine in my tap water, yet I have never had any similar issue with my system... in fact if you look at the color of the clear inlet hose to the color of the waste or permeate hose in my system you can clearly see the difference. The inlet hose has yellowed from the crap in the water while both the waste and permeate still look new.

(Lowe's prefilters)

I definitely wouldnt keep buying the same prefilter you currently use

Thanks, I'll see if I can get the lowe's prefilters and I'll use two of the carbon blocks in the unit at the same time.
 
  • #77
So I got the parts and am assembling everything finally. I printed off your diagram and pictures to use, but I've got a question. In your diagram, for the ASOV, you show that prefiltered water goes into the "IN" port on the side that's labeled and out the "OUT" port on the other end, so essentially in a straight line through on the side that's labeled. Same thing for the permeate, except on the side of the valve that is not labeled. However, in your picture with the colored tubing, it shows that the prefiltered water goes in one side and out the same side, so it essentially "U-Turns" in the ASOV. Same thing with the permeate, a U-Turn in and out the same end.

So, how is the ASOV supposed to be oriented? What is its function and how does it perform that function? Maybe knowing that I can figure out how to orient it.

Thank ya!
 
  • #78
when the membrane output side pressure reaches 60% of the membrane inlet pressure flow to the membrane inlet is closed off

two ports on the ASOV should be labeled, they may or may not be on the same side as mine is.... but two (at least) should be labeled by some means

the two that are unlabeled in my diagram should have free flow and not close off
 
  • #79
Okay, so then it should be that the prefiltered water goes into the "IN" port on the "IN" end of the ASOV and back out the "IN" end while the permeate goes into the ASOV through the "OUT" port on the "OUT" end of the valve and then back out the "OUT" end? This would seem like it might make sense, just because of the design of the valve. On the labeled side, I cannot see through from the "IN" port to the "OUT" port, nor can I blow any air through it. On the opposite side, though, (the non-labeled side) I can see right through from one end to the other. So I assume the labeled side (the side with stuff in between opposing ends) is where the actual valve mechanism is located, such that prefiltered water is able to go through the mechanism until pressure on the permeate end reaches 60% of the prefilter pressure and the mechanism closes.

...
......

Does that seem right? XD

---------- Post added at 06:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------

Wait...

http://www.purewaterproducts.com/installpermeate.htm

There, it says the best installation doesn't use an ASOV at all and to allow the permeate pump to shut the system down when the tank is full (scroll to the bottom). That's the same pump I have.

o_O

Do I not even need to install the ASOV?

Oh boy, now I'm getting right confused! Haha!
 
  • #80
ummm now im confused LOL

you have 4 ports, two labeled and two unlabeled

the two unlabeled are open and free flowing to each other but not to either of the labeled

these two unlabeled are downstream of the membrane (forget the PP for the moment, one step at a time)

The two labeled ports are upstream of the membrane with the "In" port of the ASOV connected to the prefilter outlet, and the out port connected to the membrane inlet

I recommend that you still use the ASOV, if you dont then as the line pressure flucuates during the night you will hear it kick in... with the asov this is prevented.

most vendors will still use them
 
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