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Thread: Safe sand

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    raymond's Avatar
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    Safe sand

    Where can i get safe sand or perlite in northern VA?
    "Think of how stupid the average person is, and then realize half of them are stupider than that." --George Carlin

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    does this rag smell like chloroform to you? boxofrain's Avatar
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    I got silica blasting sand at my local farm supply store.
    "the memories of a man in his old age, are the deeds of a man in his prime"

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    zlookup's Avatar
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    home depot and lowes stocks a lot of safe sand in the summer months. look in the outside areas. they aren't there all year round so you may have just not noticed before. at least, that's how it is up here in MA. perlite can be found at most hydroponic shops or garden centers i've visited as well. HTH
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    z

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    scottychaos's Avatar
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    "Safe" doesnt necessarily mean "safe for CP's"
    What is "safe for children" to use in a sandbox or something, might be deadly to CP's..because mineral hardness in sand is perfectly safe for humans, but not for CP's..

    Are you sure you even need sand?
    if you want sand for growing VFT's or Sarrs, I wouldnt bother..you dont need it.
    (dont need perlite either)

    Scot

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    raymond's Avatar
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    So pure peat?
    "Think of how stupid the average person is, and then realize half of them are stupider than that." --George Carlin

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    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    Yeah what would be a good mix for sarrs and vft? I was about to move my sarrs to sand/peat. I have them in cedar mulch/peat and don't think they like it too much. I did pure peat in my bog and it decomposed too much and rotted plants. Stagnation is a problem now in my tray method I'm temporarily using till I get the new bog setup. So I would be curious on mix to use too.
    JB
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    scottychaos's Avatar
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    When I first starting growing CP's (VFTs and Sarrs) 17 years ago, I used pure peat with a top dressing of LFS for a few years..seemed to work fine.

    then I got a computer in 1997, and started joining CP forums about 2000..
    on the forums, lots of people talked about using mixes of peat and sand, and peat and perlite..so I tried them..

    peat+sand = hated it..very heavy, compressed into the consistancy of a brick..not impressed, and saw no purpose, need or benefit to the sand.

    peat+perlite = hated it..perlite floats to the surface, and is really ugly. not impressed, and see no purpose, need or benefit to the perlite.

    so after those two seasons of experimantation I switched back to..pure peat with a top dressing of LFS!
    been working fine ever since..I wont switch again.

    I use pure peat for 95% of the pot..the top dressing of LFS (Long Fibre Spagnum) is used so the rain doesnt splash the peat around and make a mess, and for looks..pure peat has a consistancy of regular soil and can splash around in a heavy rain..the LFS makes a nice neat top dressing.

    I do two or three seasons with the peat, then repot in new peat. used peat goes into the gardens.
    I should do two years, but im on three years right now since the last repotting..plants are fine..I will repot next spring.

    Scot

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    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    To quote Jerry Addington's website:

    After a long career in horticulture one thing is clear
    to us that may surprise some newbies - starting out it seems all one has to do is learn the best way to grow a certain plant and follow that recipe to success. Gradually one discovers that there are almost as many "best" ways as there are sucessful growers. Some practices work great for one person and not another. Climate can be a big factor and so is personality.

    Local "cultures" of cultivation practices evolve as enthusiasts share information. "Truth" we hold self evident may be contigent on factors specific to local conditions. We keep our fly traps and sarracenias sitting in water constantly year round - a practice excellent cultivators in the southeast have informed us would rot out plants in their climate. We treat cephalotus the same way - works for us. Others strongly dissagree. Our best cultural advice is to consult many sources and find your own way.
    This has been my experience also. What works for some people may not work at all for others.

    "Safe" media for the majority of carnivorous plants means chemically neutral or mildly acidic (pH somehwere in the range of 3.0-5.5), nutrient poor and free of fertilizers. "Safe" sand would be quartz or silica, preferably "silver/white", colored sands means impurities in the quartz/silica which may leach out in acidic conditions. Silica/Quartz sand should be rinsed thoroughly to remove any salts that are often used in the grinding/milling process. Let some of the rinsed sand stand in water overnight then test the pH of the water.

    "Safe" play sand sold in hardware and garden centers just means it has been washed to remove any small dust particles. It may not be silica/quartz sand and therefore not chemically neutral. Read the label. Construction sand could be anything, quartz/silica, limestone, granite, mixtures etc. and is usually not identified as to what it is.
    Last edited by Not a Number; 07-29-2011 at 12:07 PM.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

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