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Thread: Got Nikon D3100, could use pointers

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    instigator thez_yo's Avatar
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    Got Nikon D3100, could use pointers

    So, I got a fancy DSLR and I got some fancy extra parts for it including... extension tubes? is that what these are officially called? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._Tube_Set.html

    Anyway, here's some pics from my first time that weren't too bad (we'll save the really awful for the end ):


















    I haven't figured out most any of the buttons yet, and I wasn't using a tripod or anything really and it was windy... oops And some things just didn't want to focus even though they were inside and I was resting the camera against a steady object:



    And some stuff is just a loss

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    kulamauiman's Avatar
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    what is the focal length of the lens? Some issues you may be having with it is the extension tubes might not get you that much more magnification the bigger the lens. NaN had a nice link on that somewhere.....

    Most of my macro work i tend to not sue the auto focus. All manual. But then my macro lens's auto focus doesn't work with my camera.... . Might be easier to try with the close up filters initially.

    On the camera there is a setting "A" Aperture priority mode. Set it there, use largest F number F22 F32 I forget now. And set focuses mode for spot/center weighted. Will help for light metering and focusing on the one thing you really want to take a pic of....

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    MICKEY's Avatar
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    nice first try if you adjust the f stops to the highest number ,more will be in focus,but the shutter speed will need to be slower

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    mass's Avatar
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    My pointers would be, read the manual from start to finish, get some lenses, and most importantly.. a tripod. In my short experience with macro work I've found a (mini) tripod to be as important as good lenses.

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    instigator thez_yo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kulamauiman View Post
    what is the focal length of the lens? Some issues you may be having with it is the extension tubes might not get you that much more magnification the bigger the lens. NaN had a nice link on that somewhere.....

    Most of my macro work i tend to not sue the auto focus. All manual. But then my macro lens's auto focus doesn't work with my camera.... . Might be easier to try with the close up filters initally.
    Ah yeah it was all manual because auto-focus wasn't focusing where I needed it to. I do need to read up on Warren's postings...

    Quote Originally Posted by MICKEY View Post
    nice first try if you adjust the f stops to the highest number ,more will be in focus,but the shutter speed will need to be slower
    I don't even know what that means *runs off to read manuals*

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    MICKEY's Avatar
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    that's the nice thing with a digital camera you can play with it all day, figure out what does what ,you get to see the results instantly and it does not cost a fortune in film and processioning

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    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    You'll end up using manual focus most of the time. Even if you can change the focus hot spot many times it won't be where you need to focus. Shoot in aperture priority or full manual mode.

    You need to understand the inverse relationship between f-stop (aperture setting) and shutter speed and what changing these do.

    A higher f-stop (smaller aperture opening) needs slower shutter speeds for correct exposures. Lower f-stops - faster shutter speeds. Higher f-stops reduces the circle of error in the image, increased depth-of-field (DOF) so more of the image will be sharp or in focus. With macro and close-up photography the DOF is very narrow so it is usually better to use higher f-stops (f16 or higher). Most lenses give their sharpest images one or two f-stop less than their highest setting. So if the max is F22 you'll probably get sharper images at around f16.

    The trade-off is slower shutter speeds. Slower shutter speeds means more image blur due to movement - be it the camera or subject or both. You can boost the shutter speed by using higher/faster ISO speeds but the tradeoff here is image quality - noise and contrast shifts occur at higher ISO speeds. How much depends a lot on the image sensor and the firmware/software of the camera. Using flash will also allow you use faster shutter speeds at higher f-stops but macro photography is usually too close for the minimum flash distance for on-camera flash or outside the coverage range of the flash. Off camera flash is an advanced topic so we'll leave it for some other day (or not if all if lucky).

    My advice for now is to study up on aperture priority mode and practice manual focusing. Don't use such extreme magnification for now until you get more comfortable on setting aperture and manual focusing. The longer the extension factor from tubes the more magnification is possible. Try a shorter combination of tubes. Be aware though every time you change a lens you'll probably get dust in the camera which can show up in the image if it ends up on the sensor.

    Some one posted a link to a DSLR simulator which is a great tool to help you understand the relationship of aperture, shutter speed and ISO speed and how it effects the resulting image. This might be useful to you since it's hard to make out much detail on the LCD screens of most cameras and not as much as a hassle as uploading the images to view on your computer.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

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    Devon's Avatar
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    All I can add to this is a congratulations!! I'm jealous. (I actually am)

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