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Thread: Adventures in Lens Stacking

  1. #17
    Natalie's Avatar
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    Awesome post, thanks NaN. The 23mm lens reversed in particular produces excellent results. I wonder if I could get something similar by using my 20mm reversed mounted on a bellows. Would I get greater magnification with the 20mm reversed on the bellows or with the 100mm macro on the bellows? Trying to figure out how all this works has me scratching my head. I am a bit worried about the degradation of image quality at that sort of magnification though...

    Here's a 100% crop of an image I took with my 100mm macro, and I think the slight haziness is the result of minor imperfections in the glass? I feel like I would need something with better quality glass than the 100mm macro, but I don't know what that would be since this lens is supposed to have some of the best glass Canon makes.


    (image probably got resized when I posted it)

  2. #18
    MICKEY's Avatar
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    wow great picture

  3. #19
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    Some quick tests I did with my Minolta 50mm f/3.5 macro lens

    With 1:1 adapter (the lens mount adapter adds ~9mm extension factor)
    23.5 / ~19.4mm = ~1.2x


    Lens without 1:1 adapter on bellows full extension. Light falloff is actually the shadow of the lens. Too lazy to move the light or adjust the leveling of the camera.

    23.5 / ~6.6mm = ~3.6x



    Haze can be caused by lens flare, lens needing cleaning, reflections within the lens and camera body etc. You could always tweak the contrast.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  4. #20
    Kyle's Avatar
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    Excellent posts, NaN, thanks for your insight. I've not heard of eyepiece projection, I'll have to look into that a bit. Sounds interesting. The teeny tiny working distance you get with a reversed lens is kind of irritating. Gotta be super careful not t get dew all over the lens, lol.

    @Natalie: The cheap set of tubes I use includes a 7mm piece, a 14mm piece, and a 28mm piece. The 14mm piece stays in my bag and the 7mm and 28mm pieces stay assembled with the lens and body mount pieces. When I use the full set, I can definitely pick up some degradation, so I always just use the 35mm. I would imagine if you bought multiple sets and got 100mm of extension, you'd notice pretty severe degradation, but I don't know. Oh, and that's also using the Canon 100mm f/2.8 Macro, so it's with the same lens you've got.

  5. #21
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    To read more about eyepiece projection for macro look at this page.

    You can use this calculator to find out the magnification and focus distance given the specifications of your lens and the length of extension.

    The drawbacks with using coupled reversed lenses is that you are adding more optics so any flaws in the lens get added. The drawbacks with using extension tubes or bellows is you lose automation, some speed of the lens. They are clumsy and bellows are fragile. You also need to focus, meter and set the aperture manually unless you pay a lot more for electronics/automation. There is a gizmo you can buy that allows you to adjust the aperture on Canon lenses be they reversed or mounted on "dumb" tubes/bellows for ~$200 though. There are ways to set the aperture on some cameras like Canon but it involves mount and dismounting the lens. And your viewfinder will go dim making it difficult to focus.

    Here is a good overview of macro techniques, while geared for the Pentax user it is still applicable to all.
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  6. #22
    Kyle's Avatar
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    Holy cow, the example of the fake violet shot at ~2.25x is impressive, and the lens was like 6" back from the subject... that sounds awful nice. Much better than the ~6mm I was having to work with. XD

    Bookmarked.

  7. #23
    RL7836's Avatar
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    Love the pics!!
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
    Holy cow, the example of the fake violet shot at ~2.25x is impressive, and the lens was like 6" back from the subject... that sounds awful nice. Much better than the ~6mm I was having to work with. XD
    When I was heavily into macro (back w/ film), I quickly learned the benefits of a working distance when using lots of tubes. As kyle pictured above, the distance gets so close to the lens that even getting light to the front of a subject can be rough. I even played around w/ multiple extension tubes on my 400mm telephoto. Getting adequate light to focus & compose (especially if lens is stopped down) as well as accurately meter can be a challenge. It quickly pushes one to investigate shooting w/ flash - especially if subjects are moving about....
    All the best,
    Ron
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  8. #24
    MICKEY's Avatar
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    i used to use a 5oo mm mirror lens to do macro from 3' away outside but there could be no wind and had to use high shutter speed

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