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Thread: Dormancy, hibernation, sleeping etc...

  1. #33
    N=R* fs fp ne fl fi fc L Pyro's Avatar
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    Instead of pouring the fungicide mix in the tray I would let the media dry out a bit and then top water with the fungicide solution, that way you ensure that it gets all through the pot. Capillary action can only do so much and so you might not get enought up from the tray
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  2. #34
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    Okay, This is what I was thinking about trying.

    1. Inside plants - I was going to take a small aquarium and place in the basement, on a high shelf, at an outside window. I was going to put an insulation blanket over it and the window, keeping any warmth from the house away from it and the cold from outside with it. The window will allow for light, but it will be more a diffused winter light. The room it will be in is a store room. It does get chilly in the room so I think with placing the tank by the window and insulating it, that it should remain cold enough. Being in Nebraska I will probably have to remove the insulation at times.

    2.Outside Bog- My bog is surrounded by a low lying wall. over this wall I am going to place an old door frame. There is plexi on the frame right now, but I am debating on whether or not to change it to screen (but I think not). Mulch will go over and around the frame. The frame will ease the spring clean up. My question would be, too much air space? The air space is beneficial for hardier plants (ie. use of covers) but I know not if it will help with a bog. It will make somewhat of a cold frame.

    With my garden experience, which is also many years of (but not very long with CPs), what matters is if the freeze is steady. Covers are used on roses to keep them frozen and in dormancy through the entire dormant season. It is the freeze, thaw, freeze, thaw that kills roses and many other hardier plants.

    Okay, what do you think. I can also sink the potted indoor plants into the bog, but I am worried about the outside plants. Winter is bitter and long here without enough insulating snow. I would like to keep back up plants safe.
    I am just like a Super Hero, but without the power or motivation.................and the funky suit.

  3. #35

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    dude,

    soCal winters are okay for my sarrs outside, just be aware of those few random days/weeks where it gets really warm. Just stick 'em in the shade or in the house until it gets cooler again.
    A flytrap ate my homework!
    -Michelle

  4. #36

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    I have just recently put some of my plants in colder temperatures for dormancy. I noticed that my S. 'Judith Hindle' is going limp, I was wondering if this was normal, is this what happens when it starts to go dormant? Thanks
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  5. #37
    Frakkin Toaster Cynic81's Avatar
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    I'm in VA (Richmond, but the plants would probably be put into dormancy in Roanoke). I'm strongly considering leaving the plants outside, but all the indicators are pointing to a very hard winter this year. However, since I'm at college (with a very small fridge) I have to leave the plants in the care of my less-than-observant parents (my mother has an infamous black thumb, moslty the result of plant impulse buys) so I'm leery of leaving them in charge of my fridge-dormant plants. Which route would you condsider? Also take into account that I'm not going to be able to take either route until december, since I'm visiting family in NH for thanksgiving, and I won't be able to get anywhere near home until about a week before christmas. Is this too late?
    The plants have already had their photoperiod reduced to 7 hours a day, with the sill plants (2 purps and a D. Binata) getting less than 4 hours and reduced temps (they turned the AC off, so the window is open a lot for temp. regulation in the room). Also, would a neem oil based fungicide be okay to use? So far it's worked wonders keeping my plants safe from the botrytis siege. Thanks in advance.

    Plants to be put into dormancy include:
    3 Leucos
    4 VFTS
    3 purps
    1 D. Rotundifolia
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  6. #38
    goldtrap2690's Avatar
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    from most peoples suggestions and my experiance , i'm gussing that in southern california is ok for cps for dormancy . i live in the san fernando valley which gets the coldest weather in LA and i kept all my plants outdoors last eyar and they don't seem to have any defects and were growing well this year but i'm still gonna try the refrigerator method since i want to be on the safe side .

  7. #39

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    Well, I live in Beverly Hills, so it's not exactly cold during the winter. I keep my VFT on a windowsill. I'm sorta afraid of dormancy because I'm probably going to do something wrong, and I don't think the plant will get too much light in the refigerator. ...how should it get its light?

  8. #40
    It's been one of dem days BigCarnivourKid's Avatar
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    IHaveAName,
    First off, in spite of all the hype to the contrary, VFTs aren't that hard to grow if you give them the basics: Pure water, sphagnum peat moss soil, lots of light during their growing season. If you can give them these three requirements the rest is a piece of cake. For dormancy in the warmer parts of the US where the temp doesn't drop much below 70f, the refridgerator is usually the best bet. The cold (not freezing) temp in the refridgerator causes a deep dormancy in which the plant can do little or no photosynthesis. So light is not needed.

    Many people have observed their plants growth slowing in the winter as well as the production of the smaller winter leaves, even though the temps are in the 60f to 70f range. Their plants did fine and showed no adverse effects from not getting a colder dormancy. If you have a cool room in your house or the garage (just remember to check them for watering) that receives at least some light, this will work. The warmer the room, the more light it should recieve to keep your VFT healthy.

    The only time I have lost plants during dormancy is when there was an extended freeze (3 to 5 days) and the plants weren't protected well enough against the cold.

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