My plan for dormancy

[ritlane]

Hello all,
   I am now approaching my second winter growing CPs.  My first winter was a tough one, and I lost many plants.  This was primarily due to a combination of inexperience, and having to move my plants into the refrigerator too quickly (I'm a college kid with a strange schedule where I relocate a lot)

  This year, I hope to do things differently.  I'm hoping to avoid the refrigerator entirely, as I don't like the high risk of fungus.  So here is my plan:

For two to three weeks I will lower the photoperiod of my plants, and cool them down slightly (Currently outside in TX, high 80s) by bringing them inside (AC, mid 70s)

I will then keep the low photoperiod (using artificial lights) to about 7-8 hours a day.

During this time, I will keep the plants in a styrofoam container, to which I can add ice packs, or those artifical liquid cooling packs.  I will try to gradually reduce the average temperature by about 10 degrees a week, until I hit about 40~45F.

When the plants have hit full dormancy, I'll stop the light, and cover up the top of the container (if needed to regulate temp).  I'll keep extra cooling packed in the freezer, and swap them in and out as needed.  I'll also continue to add water, but just enough to prevent drying

How does this sound for a plan?  Any comments?  After last winter, I am leery of putting the pots in the fridge.  I would consider doing a bare root fridge dormancy, but many of my plants were repotted this year, and I don't want to further stress them.


---Lane

 

[carniverous newbie]

Wow, it sounds like you have a carefully thought-out plan! I can't offer an opinion as this will be my first winter with CP's. But reading this was helpful...if I hadn't, I would've just popped them in the fridge without adjusting them first, and lost them!

 

[Pyro]

If you can manage to hold the plants at a 60ish degree and keep them on a 8-10 hr photoperiod then you would probably be fine stopping there. I left many of my plants outside last winter and we had highs in the low 80's a couple time and they all did fine.

 

[Parasuco]

Mine are all outside right now, and what I'm going to do is put them in the laundrey room window. That way they get a photoperiod, but its still quite cold down there...

 

[Tamlin Dawnstar]

I have overwintered some temperate Droserae at room temperature: intermedia and filiformis. Photoperiod is the most critical factor. Also I kept my intermedia almost bone dry with no ill effects, and this greatly reduces the risk of mold. Probably the other temperate Droserae would likewise be ok with this, esp. if they form good tight hibernacula under a normal photoperiod.

You sound very dedicated to caring for your plants! I go through similar effort in the summer, trying to keep Drosera uniflora's roots cool as possible, and it is a difficult process, esp. when you can't be home every day to change the cold packs!

Good luck with the dormancy

 

[dfalkanger]

What exactly is a photo period? I am guessing that it is a time of absolute darkness, for the plant, but I just wasn't sure? And how does the photo period work? Should you ease the plant into less and less light for dormancy? thanks for the info.

 

[BigCarnivourKid]

dfalkanger,
 Your guess is close, it is the lenght of time the plant is exposed to light and it's easier on the plant if you shorten the photo period gradually since that's what they are used to in nature.

 

[BuMbOiMk]

ohh....
So does that mean if the plants are in a growth chamber or terrarium in a room, and I use lights in my room to see, is that messing up the photoperiod of my plants?

 

[BigCarnivourKid]

I don't think so. Most plant lights have to be placed pretty close to the plant for them to be able to use the light, so I don't think one that's many feet away would affect the plants much.

 

[nepenthes gracilis]

I don't bother around with photoperiod with Nepenthes or any other tropical CP's in terrarium/growchambers/etc as I leave the light on all day long until 9 o clock at night and then shut it off. I was using a timer but I found the manual on/of seemed much better for me. I am think of going back on the timer though. For all other temperat CP (Sarracenia,Drosera,Darlingtonia,VFT,etc) I think I a going to put the VFT's in the fridge and maybe a few Sarracenia but like the S.Venosa I had it on my back porch all winter and I am sure it go well below -15 out there a few times and it was fine. And with it being that cold I used no fungicide and fungus was never a problem. Funny thing is the soil was rock soil a few times and the sphagnum was like a carpet of prickly spikes.

But I wouldn't push on the cooling thing. Just don't get it too warm, sure plants can take a temp spike like 70 degrees in dormancy but not for the whole day, that would be awful for them. Just keep them around 50 and below I say. IMHO. Good luck and no worries you plants will be fine.

O and USE A FUNGICIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[sarracenia]

What kind of plants do you have? Some will do just fine leaving them outside all winter in TX, such as Sarracenia, and many Drosera.

 

[ritlane]

Unfortunatly, I will not be in TX all winter or else I would.

I will be leaving TX mid November, and hope to have the plants entering a dormant stage by then, to make travel easier.  

I will be returning back up to fridgid Rochester NY, where it is too cold to leave them outside all winter.  I also live in a college apartment area, so there isn't really any place I can leave them outside without the fear of drunken vandalism, or at the very least, beer being spilled into the pots.


---Lane

 

[Linda]

Lane,

Another thought which may work well in a college apt-- one of those small fridges are roughly $70 at wal-mart or k-mart. If your plants fit in a styrophom container the fridge should be about the same size. The one here in our office has max-min temp dial (I could stick a theometer inside and see what the range is if you want). Anyhow, if it is dedicated to just the plants, I would bet the temp could be maintained at 50ish (which is warmer than your average fridge for food). That should avoid your mold issues but keep the temp right. It is also small enough to fit in the corner of your room and not be in the way of your roommates.

I bet it could be modified fairly easy too---remove the door and cover with a piece of glass (then you can see them all winter). The florescent light fixtures for under kitchen cabinets could be rigged inside to provide light.

Oh, by the way, your plan sounds possible also. The number of ice packs needed to keep the temp right might become a problem; remember the apt will be heated so even though the cooler will keep the cold temp in, I'm not sure that keeping a stable temp will be easy.

Oh, one more thought, get an apartment with a balcony or fire escape out your bedroom window. Many CP's would do just fine sitting out there and I'd bet your roommates won't party outside once it gets cold. LOL My sarrs and purp and VFT were in 20F for a good 2 months last winter and did just fine.

Good luck, have a great school year and may all your CP's do well.

 

[fugazi]

I have exactly the same problem. I live in a relatively cold area where it sometimes reaches 32F in winter. I don't have a balcony and my room is too small. After reading this thread, I think it might be good to lower the temp slowly using the styrofoam-method and then putting it in the refridgerator. That way you don't have to struggle with the ice-packs and the heating in winter. I reckon keeping the styrofoam at a constant temp will be almost impossible over the course of two or three months.

I fear my plants are doomed

 

[Guest]

Does anyone know of any CP's (besides our AK native ones) that could handle being left outdoors in Alaska for dormancy? The lowest temperature I've seen in the winter was a little past -50F. Our usual winter temps in this part of AK are from 30F to - 40F. I thought about putting my plants by the windows in an unheated garage all winter. That should keep the temps a tiny bit warmer. And the photoperiod would naturaly drop to 4 to 5 hours of daylight a day by Janurary. Or my bed room is a possibility..it usually varies from 50F to 40F in winter.. is that too warm? It's really hard for me to keep any kind of maintained temp (outside of the terrariums) because we only have a woodstove for heat so the temp varies alot.
Or there's always the frigerator...
Any ideas?