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Thread: Broke Down And got lights

  1. #1

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    Had everything doing fairly well as windowsil plants, but then the dews started losing dew, and the pings were all tilting toawrds the window.

    So I went and did a bit of shopping. Picked up 3 4' 2 bulb shoplight fixtures t8/t12.

    Bulbs I got are:

    2x GE t8 (only t8 bulbs they had, figured and give them a shot)
    4100k 2650 lumen 32w 72cri

    2x GE Daylight t12
    6500k 3050 lumen 40w 75cri

    2x GE Plant & aquarium t12
    ?k (just says widespectrum) 1900 lumen 40w 90cri

    Setup less then 1 foot from most of the plants.

    Lights are like this

    Daylight (blue-ish)
    Plant (red)
    t8 (white)
    t8 (white)
    plant (red)
    daylight (blue-ish)

    Did I do alright? Any info on the Plant and aquarium bulbs? color temps? Are the lumens to low on those?
    \"Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.\"
    --P. J. O'Rourke
    GL

  2. #2
    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    that sounds great!

  3. #3
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    I've been growing my plants exclusively under cool white fluorescents for the past couple of years, so my practical experience with other bulb types is nil. However, here's what I think based on what I know of photosynthesis:

    1. The relative amount of light absorbed by most plants is highest at wavelengths between 450-500 (blue) and 650-700 nm (red). However, even though plants absorb both blues and reds, they are more efficient at absorbing the 450-500nm blue wavlengths (70-90% absorbed) than they are absorbing the red 650-700nm wavelengths (20-50% absorbed). This is why if you ever had a choice between cool white (blue) and warm white (red) fluorescents, you'd want to choose the cool whites--not only are they more efficient (emit more lumens) but more of the light they emit is absorbed.

    2. The daylight bulbs you bought have a temperature of 6500K, so the wavelength for which its light intensity is maximum (Lmax) is ~450 nm. The T8s you bought have a Lmax of 710nm. So, assuming prices are similar, it seems to me that you might be better off replacing the 2 T8s with 2 daylight bulbs, because the daylight bulbs produce more blues AND more lumens.



    But this is just a suggestion (and maybe I'm nitpicking). You are certainly providing your plants with a wider (healthier) spectrum than I'm providing mine!! And they will love the extra light you're giving them.

    Hope this was somewhat helpful.

    PS: To answer your other question, your GE plant & aquarium bulbs have a temperature between 3000-3200K.

    EDIT: One last thing....lighting is like potting media...everyone has their own preferences. You'll hear people swear by cool whites only, others will say they use a mix of cool and warms, others cool and daylight, and others add some UV bulbs. So don't be surprised if there is a wide range of suggestions.
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
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    My lighting advice: Go by intensity, as in the wattage of the bulbs. The higher the wattage, the better the light. I don't deal with all that color temperature and spectrum mumbo jumbo [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_n_32.gif[/img]

  5. #5
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]The higher the wattage, the better the light. I don't deal with all that color temperature and spectrum mumbo jumbo
    That's precisely the attitude I've had--I only use cool whites!!! But those on the other side of the fence may be onto something....

    Which is why I'm planning to do a small experiment comparing plant parameters (leaf/pitcher size, color, rate of production, among other things) from a population of N. gracilis clones placed under cool white (n=3) versus those under a cool/warm white mix (n=3).

    The drawbacks.....Being in an apartment, I won't be able to control the variables as best I want, but i'll do my best. The sample size will be low, so the power of the statistical analysis will be weak, but I don't have an unlimited supply of plants! Moreover, since there are no standardized conditions for growing CPs, the results may be valid only for a narrow range of conditions.....but then again, my purpose is not to answer these questions for the entire CP community! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]

    I haven't thought out the experiment in great detail, so I'm just rambling here....but I'll let the group know the results when I have them.
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
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    Well I can say that after 1 day, the Drosera capensis already look much better. The younger leaves all made dew today. which they haven't done for a bit now.
    \"Anyway, no drug, not even alcohol, causes the fundamental ills of society. If we're looking for the source of our troubles, we shouldn't test people for drugs, we should test them for stupidity, ignorance, greed and love of power.\"
    --P. J. O'Rourke
    GL

  7. #7
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]Well I can say that after 1 day, the Drosera capensis already look much better.
    That's great news and the most important thing! Actual results speak much louder than conjecture.
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
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  8. #8
    Stay chooned in for more! Clint's Avatar
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    well, i think lumens and color are very important.

    i think of it like this, you can have all the light in the world, but without the right kind of like you won't get a tan.

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