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  1. #1

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    Arrow

    What can i do wen i recibe my plants to make them feel better and don strees up!, how much water for nepenthes and sarracenias... i tink they traps are going to come all dried out, i fill them to half? im reciving:
    Droseras:
    sphatulata
    capensis
    natalensis
    madagascarensis
    aliciae
    adelae red and green
    (All for the terrarium)
    Pinguiculas:
    essentaria (terrarium)
    moranensis
    primunifolia?
    (green house)
    Dionaea:
    red trap
    green
    (terrarium... im a member of GVFTT...growing venus fly trap on terrarium)
    Nepenthes:
    alata (terrarium)
    Sarracenia:
    Purpurea (terrarium.. in fall green house)
    Cephalotus folicularis!!!!! (terrarium)
    Urticularia:
    longifolia?? (terraium).
    The terrarium have 2 computer fans, 1 fog maker, 2 25 wats bulbs (dont say how much K, but they are yellow!, i have them w my first carnivorous plants, and getting 2 ballast for 30 wats nutri gro lamp and day max, im searching bulbs near 5,000k, te terraium is 40cm deep and 70 long, im putting the nepenthes and VFTs with the cephalotus and sarracenia in the midel part up of the terrarium, just leaving like 20cm deep away from light bulbs, any help is very arpeciated, thanks in avance and take care.

  2. #2
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Some suggestions:

    1. If your plants are arriving bareroot, you should immediately plant them in their appropriate wetted potting mixes then place them in the terrarium or greenhouse. If they arrive dormant (e.g., VFTs and S.purpurea) you should try to maintain dormancy, as appropriate. Stand them in water or not as appropriate, depending on species.

    2. Your tank is ~15" deep. Some of the plants may become etiolated that far from the lights so you may want to elevate them to within 3-6" from the bulbs.

    3. I would not place the drosera or pings directly in front of the fans--a strong and constant breeze can dry out the dew and/or leaves of many species. The neps, sarrs and utrics are more tolerant of this.

    4. The VFTs, Sarrs and cephs require the most light so position them appropriately. D.adelae can tolerate shadier conditions. Most CPs will appreciate as much fluorescent light as you can provide, within reason and so long as temperatures are not too elevated by the bulbs.

    5. It seems like you'll have 110W of lighting over your 27" L x (?) W tank, but I'm not certain if you have the correct bulbs. I use 80W of cool white fluorescent lighting (4 20W T12 bulbs) for my 20gal terrarium. Others use a mix of cool and warm white fluorescents, while some use daylight bulbs and other varieties. As with soil mixes, everyone seems to have their favorite lighting setup.

    6. Watch the temperature within the tank closely. If it gets too high (>90-95F) for too long, it can damage or kill some of the more delicate species. Also, beware for fungal infections, especially among the drosera and pings (if infection occurse, treat the plant with an appropriate fungicide). FYI....most pings and drosera do not require high humidity so if fungal infections become a problem, you may want to consider growing these plants on a grow-rack instead where air circulation and temperatures are manageable.

    There's a lot more to be said, but I think these are some important points.

    Ultimately, the most appropriate soil mix, watering schedule and lighting will depend on your particular setup. Cultivation parameters influence each other. Search the database for detailed information on humidity, lighting, temperature and other terrarium-related topics. Let us know if you have any questions.



    Good luck!

    [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
    Member, International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS)
    Member, North American Sarracenia Conservancy (NASC)
    Member, The Carnivorous Plant Society (CPS)

  3. #3

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    Hey, thanks a lot, im happy all plants arrive here....fine, 1 was dead, and all are very small (less than 1"), Only the nepenthes is big, the vft look good, full of green stuff, ok i will move VFT and sarracenia up, dorseras down and y will put the fans away from plants, they are very samll i have enough room for give some space to the fans, ok im buying 2 20 wats bulbs?, what u all tink...Daylight or warm withe?, they arribe with pot and all ported in (exept some pings), they wall all moved but they look fine, hey other quetion... should i feed them?, with what? i have fish flakes and koi foos, im not sure is better food with less fat?, which origem of the food?, i can feed them insects i fell so bad taking a live thing to let it fall in a pitcher.... i mean its difyculty, i have non fat milk too, there is someting.. some ingrediet bad for plants?, i read nothing with cooper. Hey abouth sarracenia, it have black spots, not like fungus, they are like dead parts, like the parts burnt, same with nepenthes pitchers, what to do?, can i over water a sarracenia?, Any other tip will be apreciated, thanks.

  4. #4
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]ok im buying 2 20 wats bulbs?, what u all tink...Daylight or warm withe?, they arribe with pot and all ported in (exept some pings), they wall all moved but they look fine, hey other quetion... should i feed them?, with what? i have fish flakes and koi foos, im not sure is better food with less fat?, which origem of the food?, i can feed them insects i fell so bad taking a live thing to let it fall in a pitcher.... i mean its difyculty, i have non fat milk too, there is someting.. some ingrediet bad for plants?, i read nothing with cooper. Hey abouth sarracenia, it have black spots, not like fungus, they are like dead parts, like the parts burnt, same with nepenthes pitchers, what to do?, can i over water a sarracenia?, Any other tip will be apreciated, thanks.
    1. you need more than 2 20W fluorescent tubes for that sized growing area. I would recommend a mimimum of 80W. You can go to HD or lowes and buy two 2' long fluorescent fixtures ($25 each). Each holds 2 20W tubes ($5 each) for a total of 80W. Tubes can be all cool white or a mixture of cool and warm whites.

    2. As for feeding: food with less fat is better. CPs typically make best use of nitrogen found in proteins and don't typically produce lipases needed for fat digestion--this is simply the result the plants evolving as insectivores (insects are largely proteinaceous and have little fat or carbohydrates). I've never used fish flakes or pellets to feed my plants. I WOULD AVOID FEEDING LARGE QUANTITIES OF FOOD TO TERRARIUM PLANTS--the leftovers on the leaves can quickly become covered in fungus which can spread to the plant. A light feeding with crushed, powdered food is best. I'd stay away from feeding the plants human foods--there's little practical reason to do this other than to satisfy curiosity. I feed my plants as follows: 1) dews and pings get crushed frozen bloodworms oonce per month, 2) neps, helis, sarrs, genlisea, terrerstrial utrics, b.reducta and catopsis get foliar fertilization with 1/4 strength orchid fertilizer once every two weeks (roridula once per month), 3) aquatics get a cup of daphnia once every couple of months.

    3. Remove dead tissue from plants in a terrarium--it can be food for fungus. It's normal for nep pitchers to slowly die from the top downward. The top of the pitcher can be dead but usually the bottom remains alive for weeks or months after (and can continue to digest/absorb food). For this reason, most people keep the pitchers on the plant until they've completely died.

    4. You can overwater almost any plant if the soil is not good. If the soil is airy and loose then sarrs can do fine in a terrarium constantly sitting in a saucer of water. If the soil is old and compact, then the same situation can result in root rot due to low oxygen levels in the soil.
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
    Member, International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS)
    Member, North American Sarracenia Conservancy (NASC)
    Member, The Carnivorous Plant Society (CPS)

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    OK, Thanks i must say im reading ting i dont know....Well i c over the earth of the sar a withe veil.. i tink it was a fungus gnat flea, so i put it in water (all the pot), but i dont c insects on there, so i tink it was fungus, i will put it upper in the terrarium, and get a fan over him, i will give a drop of milk to one pitcher (nep or sar), each month, and fish flake food one flake per month or a pellet made dust, maybe they will digest it better, pings will eat the dust too... right?, if i can i move the VFT to a bulb in my house i tink it will catch someting, (they are full of small insects w long legs), if i cant i will tink of many insects we crush walking on the strett,i mean how much evil can be make let venus eat a bug?, [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_h_32.gif[/img] i hope my plants go good, the sar have black spots im scared look like old traps was dieing, i hope the litle sar get fine. Thnaks all, i have the nutri gro and day max bulbs (30 wats each), should i put them, one wen is on look white and other green, the spectrum is from 200 to 580 nanometers, a red, green, blue higt and other color low, day max is like 300 to 520 nanometers, with a very hight green yellow bar, hope this help, thanks. Thanks for help me.

  6. #6
    chloroplast's Avatar
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    You're welcome. Glad to help. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile.gif[/img]
    Secretary, New England Carnivorous Plant Society (NECPS) http://www.necps.org/
    Member, International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS)
    Member, North American Sarracenia Conservancy (NASC)
    Member, The Carnivorous Plant Society (CPS)

  7. #7

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    Thanks to u!

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