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Setting up a N. bicalcarata terrarium

  • #21
Hello LLeopardGGecko, I read through your posts here and would like to give a little advice...bicals get MUCH too large for a 10-gallon.  Since you grow Drosera, why don't you put them in the 10-gallon tank and use the 20 for the bicals.  You mention your humidity is 30-50%; this is MUCH too low for bicals.  From my experience bicals need some of the highest humidity readings of most Neps I have grown.  Even a 20-gallon tank will eventually be too small for bicals, but it will give you a year or 2 with a small plant.  To cover your tanks, save a bunch of money and go to Home Depot, buy pieces of cut glass, and for about $3 you can buy a glass-cutting kit (I was just there the other day shopping for glass for my new greenhouse).  I would cut "2" pieces of glass that would fit snugly on the top of the tank, so you can accurately adjust the amount of outside air coming into the tank by simply adjusting one of the sections of glass.  You can even glue a piece of wood on one of the pieces to create a handle for removing the glass.  If you have the money, I would go to a thrift store (they ALWAYS have old aquariums for sale!) and look for a hex- or octagon-shaped tank because this will give you much more height that your bical will need.  Just make sure you keep that humidity VERY high (like 80% or more!)
Ludwig
 
  • #22
I really appreciate all your advice Ludwig! But dang, now I don't know WHAT to do
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I like your idea of moving all my sundews out of my 20 gallon and placing them in the new 10 gallon, but I hate to move those little guys because they're so used to the conditions of my 20 gallon long right now. I guess they'd adjust to the new conditions fairly quickly though.

I have a question though. Say I moved all my Pings and Drosera out of my twenty gallon long and just left the Neps in there. Do you think all my Neps would be happy with such high humidity? So far I'm growing N. ampullaria, N. ventrata, N. villosa, N. rafflesiana, and N. ventricosa. I also have a Ceph in there for good measure
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I'm just thinking that those guys don't need the super high humidity so the N. bicals would be better off in a tank of their own.

Now I know these plants get big fast, but how fast are we talking? Perhaps 6 months before they outgrow the 10 gallon? That would give me enough time to make room for something bigger for them, maybe a new 20 gallon that would be JUST for N. bical.

Your thoughts?
 
  • #23
Here is my experience with bical: the 1st one I received appeared to be in good condition (it was a large 12" plant) and my greenhouse was never lower than 70%; this plant just sat there for many months, then died.  I got another large plant in its place; it did the same thing, just sat there and did not grow a millimeter for months, then all of a sudden, it just took off and got HUGE in a matter of a few more months.  I know that when the HOTTEST part of summer arrived and the GH was at 90-110 degrees daily, the bical really responded and grew very fast.  I have always kept the humidity very high but have heard from others that bicals do not like humidity lower than say 60% or so.
If you REALLY want a long-lasting favorable experience with your bical I would strongly suggest planning ahead and getting a larger growing chamber and put your bical and your ampullaria in there (this was also the time my amps really did well; they both grow together and come from hot swampy areas where there is little air movement).  I have always done things by trial and error, and in my lowland house I actually REMOVED the fan I had in there and my bicals and amps did even better for me.  My best advice for you with your bical is to give it STEADY conditions and lots of room, very high temps and light, and never let the humidity get too low.  

Have you ever thought of building yourself your own terrarium?  As I said before, loose glass pieces from home depot is VERY cheap and you can get a glass cutting kit for about $3.  Just get some sealant from Home depot (it wouldn't have to be absolutely water-tight as an aquarium would have to be) and make your own grow chamber!  I would estimate you could make a 4-foot high chamber for less than you would think.  If I didn't have the greenhouse I would have done this a long time ago, and you can even design it to fit snugly in your room in the space you intend to keep it.
Ludwig
 
  • #24
[b said:
Quote[/b] (ludwig777 @ Feb. 06 2006,7:55)]Here is my experience with bical: the 1st one I received appeared to be in good condition (it was a large 12" plant) and my greenhouse was never lower than 70%; this plant just sat there for many months, then died.  I got another large plant in its place; it did the same thing, just sat there and did not grow a millimeter for months, then all of a sudden, it just took off and got HUGE in a matter of a few more months.  I know that when the HOTTEST part of summer arrived and the GH was at 90-110 degrees daily, the bical really responded and grew very fast.  I have always kept the humidity very high but have heard from others that bicals do not like humidity lower than say 60% or so.
If you REALLY want a long-lasting favorable experience with your bical I would strongly suggest planning ahead and getting a larger growing chamber and put your bical and your ampullaria in there (this was also the time my amps really did well; they both grow together and come from hot swampy areas where there is little air movement).  I have always done things by trial and error, and in my lowland house I actually REMOVED the fan I had in there and my bicals and amps did even better for me.  My best advice for you with your bical is to give it STEADY conditions and lots of room, very high temps and light, and never let the humidity get too low.  

Have you ever thought of building yourself your own terrarium?  As I said before, loose glass pieces from home depot is VERY cheap and you can get a glass cutting kit for about $3.  Just get some sealant from Home depot (it wouldn't have to be absolutely water-tight as an aquarium would have to be) and make your own grow chamber!  I would estimate you could make a 4-foot high chamber for less than you would think.  If I didn't have the greenhouse I would have done this a long time ago, and you can even design it to fit snugly in your room in the space you intend to keep it.
Ludwig
Once again Ludwig, thanks for all the info. You're really helping out
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Your experience with your first N. bical seems to be similar to mine. Since I received it (which is more than a month and a half ago now) the plant has basically just sat there, with minimal new growth and absolutely no pitchers. After you explained that your second N. bical took off with really high humidity and even higher temps, it's now apparent to me that it's current location in my 20 gallon long terrarium just won't cut it.

I would love to make my own grow chamber, but I just don't have the time or the patience at this point in time to go about making one. I'm pretty horrible with making things to begin with, so I'm sure it wouldn't end up pretty. Plus a 10 gallon tank is only $10 at Petsmart. I'd just have to pick up some kind of cover for it (glass or plexiglass) and maybe a small aquarium heater to keep humidity and heat up.

It's good to know I can keep my N. ampullaria in there with it. I'll plan on having both my N. bicals and my N. ampullaria in my new humid/hot tank.
 
  • #25
[b said:
Quote[/b] (LLeopardGGecko @ Feb. 07 2006,10:01)]I'll plan on having both my N. bicals and my N. ampullaria in my new humid/hot tank.
Yes, of all the plants you mention, these 2 would be best grown together as your highlanders won't like the extreme warm temps.
Ludwig
 
  • #26
I also have gotten my terrarium go with several Asian pitchers and a pygmy sundew. I have two gro lamps and they seem to be doing well. I drip water down over them.They also get some Sun from the South window. However I wonder about the humidity that all talk about it. Can you all explain about the untrasonic fogger and how this works and where I can get one ? What is the best to check humdity?
thanks.
 
  • #27
[b said:
Quote[/b] (kccpguy @ Feb. 08 2006,8:40)]I also have gotten my terrarium go with several Asian pitchers and a pygmy sundew. I have two gro lamps and they seem to be doing well. I drip water down over them.They also get some Sun from the South window.  However I wonder about the humidity that all talk about it. Can you all explain about the untrasonic fogger  and how this works and where I can get one ? What is the best to check humdity?
thanks.
Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air; Nepenthes need very high humidity to do well. You can buy a humidistat (instrument that measures humidity) in any hardware store.
 
  • #28
I got my new tank all set up, with glass coverings and aquarium heater in place! I'll post pictures later this week once all my plants arrive.

By the way, humidity is now hovering in the high 80s, which is MUCH better than what's in my other tank. Hopefully my little neglected bical will respond
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  • #29
[b said:
Quote[/b] (LLeopardGGecko @ Feb. 08 2006,9:48)]I got my new tank all set up, with glass coverings and aquarium heater in place! I'll post pictures later this week once all my plants arrive.

By the way, humidity is now hovering in the high 80s, which is MUCH better than what's in my other tank. Hopefully my little neglected bical will respond  
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Sounds like you're off to a great start. Anxious to see pics...glad to see your humidity is high enough, just try to keep the temps as high as you can, especially at night...higher nighttime temperatures, even up to 70, will help these heat-loving plants. You can buy heating pads designed for reptiles (sure you are familiar with these!) which would be a great solution for you, under your tank.
Ludwig
 
  • #30
That's a good idea about the heating pad. I might just go ahead and get one to keep temps as high as possible. Today the temp seems to have settled at 88 degrees, with roughly 80 percent humidity. Perhaps the heating pad will push the temp over the edge.
 
  • #31
An update to my situation: Both my N. bicals and my N. ampullaria seem to be enjoying the new humid terrarium so far. My older N. bical pretty much "woke up" once I gave it the better conditions, which is always a cool thing to see! I do have a few conerns though:

1) I'm using the tray method to water my new Neps in this terrarium. Since it's so humid, the water barely evaporates, keeping the plants waterlogged all the time. Is this bad for these plants? I've heard on this forum that both of these plants come from swamplands, so is keeping them waterlogged ok?

2) A hairy fungus has started to develop on the soil of my older N. bical. It hasn't actually hit the plant yet. I have some Physan in a spray bottle. Would it be ok to just spray this on the soil?

3) I've been taking the top off the terrarium every few days to get some air to my plants. Other than that, not much air gets inside. Is this ok?
 
  • #32
1) I beleev its bad for all neps to be waterlogged so id rather take them out of the tray and just water over-head.
2) Cant answer but if u are using the water tray system for this one too maybe that was the cause. I think u should just repot the whole thing. Just my opinion.
3)I just leev a very small gap in the front of my terrarium and my plants thrive. I think that if u have room u should put a tiny gap in the front.
4) Wat r the conditions for ur terrarium?
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  • #33
Hey there CF! First of all, how is your little N. bical doing? We did adopt one at the same time
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As for my terrarium conditions:

- Two 23 watt warm white light compact flourescent bulbs for lighting
- 10 gallon tank
- 80% humidity in the day, 90% humidity at night
- Temps are 80s in the day and 70s at night
- Water tray system
 
  • #34
I have almost the same conditions except im using only one compact flourecent bulb but its a 35 watt and equivelent to 100watt and my humidity is constantly 80%. Lets keep updating each other on how things are going. Wat do u say? O yeah and my bical is okay but is it normal for the pitcher to dry up? I have it over a infered light bulb also and im not sure if the bulb is okay for my neps. Is it? Thanks
 
  • #35
I agree with you about the updating thing. It'll be cool to see how each other's plants develop!

As for your infrared light, I think you may be better off with just a normal daylight or warm white light bulb like I have. You may also want to up your wattage just a tad bit, say to 40 or 45 watts.
 
  • #36
Put some pea-gravel in there already
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. You shouldn't have to cover the tops of the tank to keep the humidity up if you have 3-4 inches of water that you allow to evaporate.
 
  • #37
[b said:
Quote[/b] (Outsiders71 @ Feb. 16 2006,10:08)]Put some pea-gravel in there already
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.  You shouldn't have to cover the tops of the tank to keep the humidity up if you have 3-4 inches of water that you allow to evaporate.
I'm seriously considering doing that now, since I really don't want trouble with mold and fungus. Would the humidity really stay above 80 percent with water sitting in the bottom? If so I'll make the change soon.
 
  • #38
You shouldn't have to cover the top. Being in the tank alone is enough enclosure. If you fill the bottom of your tank with 2inches of pea-gravel and then fill the tank with water until it is up 2-3 inches on your Neps you should be fine. Let the water evaporate and then refill it again. You should have more than enough humidity this way.
 
  • #39
Ok, thanks. I'll try to get some pea-gravel tomorrow.
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  • #40
So do u think just one incandecent lite will still be able to raise the temps to about 85F?
 
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