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Thread: Okay- so I bought a heater

  1. #9
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    My green house DOES keep cool with my cooler. I said if i split the g/h in half the cooler would have too cool that side too cause it'd get too hot, even in the winter.
    Yes, i had plants in here last year and they went dormant, no problem.
    My g/h is NOT a lean-to it is a typical g/h. This is the inside, the back wall where the cooler is, is east and the wall that most the plants are on is the north:

    And this is how it sits out in the full sun, all day long with the shade cloth on it:


    I'm not really sure where this topic has gone though. LOL Between my master cool and my 1000PSI fogging system (on timmer) and aquafogger (on humidistat) i've got cooling and humidity taken care of. What I'm trying to figure out is care for my Tropical plants this winter. I have 1 green house that holds tropical and temperate plants. Now that winter is here, I assume I need some heat and extra light for the tropical plants (mainly lowland neps) And if they do need heat and additional light to grow their best... sugestions as to how.


    EDIT: as far as the vents go... Those are made to open and release hot air out the top and bring cool air in the bottom.. That doesn't work when it is 110 outside. That's why they are dissabled. I think they are fully closed at 75f Thats darn near night time temps in the winter here (ok- a little exagerated) But they would darn near be fully open all the time except nightime in the winter. That's why i dont' use them.



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  2. #10
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    OK andrew, heating is an adventure! First of all, I didn't read anywhere but is the heater vented? That is a must!

    Secondly, you should be venting, fresh air intake into the greenhouse is a must. I know your cooler brings some in but convective cooling would be a good idea, even if humdity will drop.

    Quote Originally Posted by [b
    Quote[/b] ]This should increase the humidity too. I may end up turning off the exhaust fan during the summer and just let the air push out because the air is being pushed though by the wetwall. That way the exhaust fan doesn't suck out the extra humidity. That can tend to be a problem if your sucking air through the pads with an exhaust fan. A friend of mine has that problem so she runs a fogger to try to increase humidity.
    In Georgia you have trouble with humidity? I'm surprised you're worried about the little extra percentage that will be sucked out. Mike Catalani had a wetwall in his greenhouse run by his exhaust fan, thats how mine works too, dual stage stat 1st kicks on cooler, second kicks on fan, done deal. You wouldn't want to just push air through it and not exhaust it...wouldn't get a good air exchange plus it wouldn't cool that well.

    Andrew, your cooler is fine for your greenhouse, a wet wall would be impractical for your ghouse. Not enough room.

    As for the partitioning deal, I think it would be a good idea! Save your money! Save heat! The temperate plants should do just fine, perhaps increase shading in the winter so the photoperiod is a little more "natural" for them.

    Up here i grow everything together all the time. The only difference I do for the Sarracenia is place them on the ground where it is colder. Water them 1 time a month approx....some even dry out...thats about it!

    Any other questions?

  3. #11
    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    hmmm OK. Well, unless you totally separate the greenhouse and put independent systems in the greenhouse then I don;t think your going to be able to accomplish what your looking for. You can solve the lighting issue by removing the shade cloth during winter. I will more than likely remove mine. That will increase the lighting. What is wrong with keeping the plants that go dormant outdoors. Then you only have to worry about the ones you want to keep growing? You would be able to keep the temps right for growth and with the shade cloth removed they should get enough light. It is going to be less than sumer, but would save from having to use lights. The only time growers use lights here is when they are getting an orchid to flower perfect for a show or picture. They use a HO light to get the plant to turn all its flowers to the light. That is how they get the phals in magazines to have all the blooms facing one direction on an arching spike. I don't think you should need the extra light just for growth, and since you say that you rarely freeze then what is wrong with building a small cold frame outside for your dormant plants? Then you can use those vent openers to lift the lid on the cold frame, but it would close at night or when it got real cold? I dunno these are just suggestions. I leave my sarrs and things that go dormant outside year round with no cover, but that is me too.

    What is the min temp you want to run? I stay around 55 to 60 with mine.

    I hope I gave you some suggestion anyway. Dunno how much good though. To achive everything you want though I think your going to have to run two setups set to different things. Since your trying to accomidate for two different growing conditions. Now you may be able to do it if your willing to compromise on cooler temps for the nepenthes so your temperates can still go to sleep. Other than that I am out of ideas.
    JB
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  4. #12
    Admin- I'm growing CPs in the Desert of Tucson, Az. adnedarn's Avatar
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    Nepg- Sounds pretty basic, thanks. I've done some talking with Tony too and I think I've got a pretty good idea as of what needs to go on here, with what I've read here and talking with him.
    As far as the heater goes- NO it is not vented. The heater runs on propane and is rated for inside your home use. So I dont' see where there will be a problem. More than enough air should be exchanging. If it does start to get low on oxygen, it will shut off as a human safety. But i really really doubt that will ever happen. Since air is always comming in the swamp cooler and exiting the top of the g/h through some small openings.

    Jb- you may be confused by what I ment for using the light... I was talking about extending the day length... Not adding more light. Even with the shade cloth, the g/h gets plenty of light, for the length of the day. I was asking if the tropical plants would be happier with a longer photo period. It seems most people don't bother with that.. So I may skip it this winter and mess with it in a future season when I don't have heating to figure out :0)

    So at this point here are the 2 options in my head (dont' know which i'll try first)
    1) leave temperate plants outside since the weather is right, and they dont' nessasaraly require the humidity levels that they require while in growth.
    2) partition the g/h with plastic. Temperate plants will be on the side with the swamp cooler, a few slits cut in this plastic so air can reach the tropical side for cooling durring the days when it still gets hot. But at night with no circulation, the plastic should "close" making most of the heat stay on the tropical side. My fogging system is overhead, so that will automatically humidify both sides. This devision I think will also alow the tropical side to be warmer durring the day, since it will not be directly open to the side with the swamp cooler. (Thermostat for the cooler is set to it's lowest posistion in the winter to help plants go dormant)

    So thanks to everyone that have given their views (here and in IM/PM)
    Andrew
    -Andrew
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  5. #13
    Cardiac Nurse JB_OrchidGuy's Avatar
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    Good luck. I am glad you have some different situations to try.
    JB
    Friend me on facebook with JB_orchidguy@yahoo.com.
    Growlist Updated 05/08/13

  6. #14
    Let's positive thinking! seedjar's Avatar
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    Regarding your question of photoperiod, how far north are you? We have several members from the SF area and further south that report success growing tropicals in windows, so I imagine that the light in Arizona is probably adequate. As for your temperate plants, I understand that you can maintain dormancy by providing less water, if the seasonal variation in temperature and photoperiod isn't dramatic enough, but it might not hurt to curtain off the tropicals with the heater anyways. What's a roll of polyvinyl tarp, anyways - like $6? I think it's worth doing if you don't mind the trip to the hardware store. I don't have a big, well-equipped greenhouse myself so it's not like I have much experience in this area, but the way I see it, you have a perfectly good greenhouse that's nowhere near full; you might as well put it to good use.
    ~Joe
    o//~ Livin' like a bug ain't easy / My old clothes don't seem to fit me /
    I got little tiny bug feet / I don't really know what bugs eat /
    Don't want no one steppin' on me / Now I'm sympathizin' with fleas /
    Livin' like a bug ain't easy / Livin' like a bug ain't easy... o//~

  7. #15
    Nepenthes Specialist nepenthes gracilis's Avatar
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    Well thats ok as long as you have a convective venting situation going on.

  8. #16

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    Jb- you may be confused by what I ment for using the light... I was talking about extending the day length...

    Hooray! Andrew has achieved diety status and can change the length of daylight itself!!! We must lavish him with gifts of plants or we will anger him and he will shorten our photo-periods!



    Sorry , couldn't resist!
    Happy Halloween!

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