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Thread: Mylar Vs. Foil

  1. #33
    ChronoKiento's Avatar
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    Oh.. well at least they're kinda cheap. And what do you mean by stagger?

    Is there some way to recycle lights? Since I'll be replacing em every year when they technically still work, I wouldn't want to just throw em out.
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  2. #34
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    What's the problem with the creases, other that it looking funny, if I may ask? Does it matter if the light is reflected in various directions?

    I ask because if it's only asthetic, then I will replace the shower curtains I'm using on my indoor greenhouse with those mylar blankets. If the creases are a problem, it won't be so practicle.
    17 Nash Rd.
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  3. #35
    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    personally, I dont worry about them... I would have to think that no creases would be better... but at some point you are picking the fly doo doo out of the pepper so to speak



    Av

  4. #36
    OMG h8 pings MrFlyTrap2's Avatar
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    FYI...

    Av8tor1, I looked at that light that you bought from lowes via the link, I noticed that it says in the product description; "Not recommended for use with timmers."

    So make sure you don't illuminate bundles of fur (a timmer) with your fixture.

    Anyways...

    What do you guys feel is more important to have covered in Mylar, the sides of the stand, or the back of the lights on the fixture? I could see both giving a lot back in terms of extra light, but to add that for my stand they both sound like equal amounts of work to me.

    Always looking for the easy way out...
    -Nate.

  5. #37
    Hello, I must be going... Not a Number's Avatar
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    You can always get plexiglass or lexan mirrors. Pretty expensive though about $40-$55 for a 24"x48" sheet. You can get it self-adhesive coated for extra. The biggest sheets I've seen were 48"x96"
    Grand Hotel... always the same. People come, people go. Nothing ever happens.

  6. #38
    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    MFT,

    I hadn’t even noticed that before, I have a pretty strong electrical/electronic background (ISCET) and cant really see a reason for it... but in today’s world of litigation who knows, I wouldn't be surprised if this was found on any fluorescent light... and since this has come up let me say be sure and follow all mfg recommendations and only make mfg approved modifications yada yada yada (now my lawyer will be happy)



    The way I figure it... half the bulb is pointed up and away from the plants, so that is a major effciency issue, now in the case of my wally world lights, considerable gains were had by adding the mylar to the fixture ... after that everything else is icing on the cake IMHO, since the law of inverse squares applies.... the gains would be a lot less then those of the fixture, for example if the relfector "curtain" is 5 inches from the light and also 5 inches from the plant what you would be reflecting would only be 1/50 of the original energy... and that would be reflecting at 100% effciency... Ive not done measurements, but this is what I would expect to see take place (if I did that right in my head... (5x5)+(5x5)=50 or would it be 10x10 hmmm LOL ah heck I dunno but distance makes a big difference LOL

    but then I could be

    Av

  7. #39
    Av8tor1's Avatar
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    hmmmmm....instead of 1/50th it may be more correct to say the equiv of a light 50" away... I'd need to freshen up on my physics

  8. #40
    OMG h8 pings MrFlyTrap2's Avatar
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    Hmm it's a thinker...

    My fixtures are really really cheap-o's. The bulbs are so close to the top of the fixture that I'd have to say there can only be 1/4" of space from the fixture to the bulbs. If not less.

    If I added Mylar to that surface, do you think it'd still make any difference or just end up reflecting that light back into the bulb?

    I've been thinking about it all day here and I'm pretty sure I'm going to do both anyways. (Sides of the stand, fixture, and top of the shelf) It'd be really interesting if I had the patience to only do one and see the results.

    -Nate

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