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Thread: Mini Windowsill for Heli

  1. #9
    Katherine
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    The refrigerator back is sheilded by a curtain with white backing, I just found out that today. The light is also diffused a little by a net curtain. I'm plaaning on making the gap at the bottom larger, or slightly tilting the greenhouse for air circulation, and it may come with some vents at the top, I'm not sure. The whole idea of the cool air sinking is why it would work. The hot air would go to the top, to where the heli isn't, and the cool air would sink down past the plant, hopefully cooling it down. If this isn't enough, I might be able to get my grandad to drill a few holes in th etop too. I'll test it on the windowsill with sun and a thermometer but without the plant and see.
    Drosera Arcturi-The Alpine Sundew...

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  2. #10
    Katherine
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    However the heli grower I'm getting it off thinks it'll work, and since H. Nutans is one of the most heat resistant heli's, it might be ok.
    Drosera Arcturi-The Alpine Sundew...

    I'm an AMP People's Choice Applicant this year, please vote for me here:
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  3. #11
    JMurphy97's Avatar
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    Is it growing with higher temps now? Where does the person grow theirs?

  4. #12
    Katherine
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    I'm not sure, it hasn't been imported yet! I'm just getting ready for it. I've come up with another idea though, having read an article on how greenhouse's work.

    It says, that greenhouse's heat up because the light goes through them and warms up th ground inside them. The wamred up ground then heats up the air, and the warmed up air has nowhere to go, since it's trapped by plastic/glass, and so the greenhouse warms up.

    My idea is to put a reflective surface underneath the open bottom of the greenhouse (it's only going on a windowsill, remember) such as mylar, so any light not absorbed by the plant, it's pot, or it's soil will be reflected back out. I'm planning on using a white, china pot, (I've heard it won't heat up very much) and having live sphagnum as a top soil, not sure about the sphagnum, but pretty sure the pot won't heat up, so long as i'm right about the not very easy to heat up properties of china. Do you think thi'll help at all?

    I'm still doing the gap at the bottom thingy too. I worked it out with my science book last night. The way I figure it, heat rises, correct me if I'm wrong, and cool air sinks? But when the heat rises, any cool air will instantly rush to fill up the gap left by the air that's risen up to somewhere else. (That's how wind's supposed to work in real life) So this means, if the air in the greenhouse gets warmer than the air around it outside of it (I want it to stay only a degree or two higher than the outside air, and most) the warm air inside will rise, and any cooler air outside should enter the greenhouse to take it's place. Also, once the warm air reached the top of the greenhouse, and it's no longer close to the source that was warming it (the pot or soil) it should cool down, and descend, to restart the process, or it could get pushed out by the air that's entering the greenhouse?

    Not sure if it'll actually work like that, but I think it might?
    Drosera Arcturi-The Alpine Sundew...

    I'm an AMP People's Choice Applicant this year, please vote for me here:
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