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Thread: My plans for 2' x 4' growing chamber - feel free to criticize, it will help me

  1. #17
    i dont do pots. amphirion's Avatar
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    if you wanted to remove that glass brace, it would be alright to do so---provided you dont intend to fill the tank up with water (i'd say halfway is the limit). the glass brace is meant to hold the tank together in the case you actually decide to use it as an aquarium. there have been quite a few horror stories about people wanting braceless tanks, removing them (without regarding the thickness of the glass), and having their tank bow and split because of the weight of the water.
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  2. #18
    Hermopolis's Avatar
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    I might add that the braces are also useful for holding aquarium lids in place, which are usually little more than bare pieces of glass themselves. If you ever need to raise the humidity of the terrarium with a lid or need a lid to deflect heat (should you ever upgrade the lights), you might want to consider keeping the brace.

    BTW, I just repaired the brace on my terrarium so I could use lids for both the above purposes.

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  3. #19
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    I believe he said he was going to use plexiglass to retain the humidity. I would suggest using a 1/4" thick piece of Lexan if you can find it since it deflects heat quite nicely and doesn't bow like standard plexiglass when subjected to heat and humidity over time. If you can't find Lexan it's not the end of the world just get a thick piece which will minimize the bowing and still deflect heat nicely. I prefer thick plexi to thin glass as it seems to deflect heat better than a standard 1/8" pane of glass or glass aquarium lid.

  4. #20
    Hermopolis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swords View Post
    I prefer thick plexi to thin glass as it seems to deflect heat better than a standard 1/8" pane of glass or glass aquarium lid.
    Yes, but it can also melt and discolor over time.

    -Hermes.
    "The grass withers, the flower fades. But the word of our God stands forever." (Isaiah 40:8)

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  5. #21
    swords's Avatar
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    I've never had that happen even when using a 400W halide over it for several years, bowing yes but never melting.

  6. #22
    D_muscipula's Avatar
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    I really hope that you take this to heart.
    I don't know how long you have been growing carnivorous plants. But if you were anything like me when I started then I imagine you are fairly new.
    When I first started growing carnivorous plants I did the exact same thing you're doing now. I designed tanks and made 3D models of the sketches on the computer. I stressed over things like how I could provide adequate airflow while still maintaining high humidity. I ended up building two tanks. One is 3 foot long, made of glass, has double french doors, and is able to hold water. The other is 4 feet long with a hinged lid, and double doors, and is made from plexiglass. Both have wood frames. I built these tanks when I was fairly new to carnivorous plants. Now that I am more experienced, and have eliminated some mindsets about the cultivation of carnivorous plants. I see that my tanks are largely unnecessary.
    Building a terrarium is a good project but in the end they are not necessary to grow many carnivorous plants, terrariums end up being a prison, a confined growing space which restricts the growth of your plants. Knowing what I know now, I would have suspended some 4 foot fluorescent shop lights over a table in an aesthetic manner. It's far easier to deal with your plants increasing is size when they are growing on a table rather than in a tank surrounded by walls. Think about what I just said. After all, if your wife limited you to one tank, wouldn't it be better to go the tank-less route?
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  7. #23
    Odysseus's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input all!

    D_muscipula, the tank is created and setup and so I don't really have a reason to go another route at this point. But to answer your last question: "After all, if your wife limited you to one tank, wouldn't it be better to go the tank-less route?"

    Not in my case.

    My wife won't give me that kind of space just yet, we live in a basement apartment without enough room for it and it took alot to get her to relinquish this space that was already mine - my computer desk is here - for some growing space.

    Also, perhaps you live in the eastern side of Oregon where it is more of desert conditions like me - so if you do then I guess I am mistaken for assuming you have better humidity where you live - but living in very dry Utah, with indoor heating and air conditioning, I can't keep up the humidity levels I need so using tanks resolves that.

    I appreciate you suggesting another method, a method I am curious about for a future Sarr and hardy Nep growing space, but what has worked best for me in the past and I am well-equipped at the moment to redo is this tank method.

    Thanks though for the input!


    UPDATE:

    Hey all! I did go with plexiglass for now, KEPT the middle glass, and will someday expect to replace the plexiglass since it is only about 1/4 inch thick and will likely discolor or bow which I expect it to.

    Also, Here is a pic showing my terrarium conditions. It is a bit warmer than I expected it to be and perhaps a tad higher humidity than expected. From my wishlist below, what would you advise me concerning how appropriate any of those plants would be in these conditions.

    I may even have to help tamp the heat and humidity down, let me know what you think!



    Please let me know if you believe these conditions are stretching it for any of these plants off my current wishlist:

    Larger pots in back:
    Heliamphora anything lower humidity hardy and warmth friendly
    N. ventricosa
    N. tentaculata
    N. maxima

    Middle size to larger pots:
    VFTs
    D. capensis
    Byblis liniflora
    Mexican pings of any variety
    U. reniformis (always wanted to grow one, but probably do fairly well being a tropical Utric.)
    D. extrema
    N. glabrata
    Cephalotus (Haven't grown one before, but I assume Ceph would like the temps and humidity level if kept around 25% but maybe stretching it here with lighting.)

    Small pots in Drosera water tray on pedestal nearer lighting:
    D. aliciae
    D. prolifera
    D. falconeri
    D. macrophylla
    D. ramellosa
    D. cistiflora (will enjoy a larger pot when older)
    D. pauciflora
    D. paradoxa
    Odysseus
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