What's new
TerraForums Venus Flytrap, Nepenthes, Drosera and more talk

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

Dormancy

Hey guys, just a quick question. I have a few Dionaea, Sarracenia and one cape sundew all growing outside. Where I live, our summers are hot and our winters very cold. (no frost though). Would it be alright for me to leave them outside, thus gaining a natural type of dormancy? Also, how much should I water them during this time? Do I leave them in there trays, or not?
 
Drosera Capensis grows year round without a dormancy and is basically a tropical plant. They can survive light front and return from their roots later. However, I'm sure the Drosera Capensis would do better to bring it indoors during the winter and keep the Venus Fly Trap and pitcher plant outside.
 
Where do you live??

I dont think its possible to have "very cold" and "no frost" at the same time! ;)
"very cold" is very relative!

if you dont get frost..you arent really very cold..

so whats your city/state? native climate has a HUGE bearing on what you can and cant overwinter outdoors..

Scot
 
West Australia. Summers get up to 40 degrees Celsius, and winters dip to 0 - -1. If we do get frost, it is gone by first light, or very early morning. I've taken note of the cape sundew thing. I think I might bring it in and put it in a baby terrarium by itself and let it run wild.
 
Western Australia covers a lot of territory. However if you're near the coast anywhere from Esperance to Perth then you are in prime Carnivorous Plant territory. This is the range of many species of tuberous and pygmy Drosera. Cephalotus will be found around Albany.

You should be able to grow most temperate carmivorous plants outdoors year round. Tropical and semi-tropical plants will require some sort of protection when the temperatures drop below 7C.
 
West Australia. Summers get up to 40 degrees Celsius, and winters dip to 0 - -1. If we do get frost, it is gone by first light, or very early morning. I've taken note of the cape sundew thing. I think I might bring it in and put it in a baby terrarium by itself and let it run wild.

If zero C is about the lowest you go, you are WARM! ;)
very warm winters..("warm" being relative of course!)
thats pretty much ideal weather for overwintering VFTs and Sarrs outdoors..
very similar to the south-east USA native range for these plants..
no fridge needed for you!

The D. capensis should be brought in for the winter, it doesnt need a domancy, but for Dionaea and Sarracenia you are golden to leave them outdoors 24/7/365..

Scot
 
Cheerz, I'll just leave them then. I'm in Mandurah, the south-west. It's about 450km from Albany. The sundews start growing down here once you get past Bunbury and you can see some of them growing around serpentine. I have gone on a few outings, just to have a look. Nice to see growing and I hate to think of people coming along and popping them out of the ground.
 
Also, now that you have me thinking, apart from Neps, Cape sundews and the APP, are there any other CPs that don't experience any form of dormancy? Also, when watching me others go into dormancy, am I expecting to watch the entire lot die off? And, do I water less, or leave them sitting in their trays.

Lastly. Alright, so 0 might be a warm winter, but don't forget down here in Australia, where all born sun-burnt :p
 
AAlso, when watching me others go into dormancy, am I expecting to watch the entire lot die off? And, do I water less, or leave them sitting in their trays.

VFts and Sarrs wont die down completely..some leaves will stay greenish all winter, others will turn brownish..they dont look very good all winter! ;) basically a bit sad and worn-looking..but no, the leaves shouldnt die away completely. then in the spring, some of the leaves that remained green through the winter will help give the plants a photosynthesis boost while new leaves/pitchers push up from the rhizome..then you can cut away old leaves/pitchers/traps that are clearly dead and brown..

if your plants leaves turn completely brown/black in the winter, the plant is probably dead!
but thats unlikely in your climate..you shouldnt have enough prolonged cold to kill these plants..
(where I live, we can have temps of -20C to -5C for WEEKS at a time..sometimes months at a time..
+2C is an unusual winter heatwave..)

so yes, you should still see lots of green all winter..even though the plant isnt growing..

in your climate, I would mulch your plants in the winter..cover them with a layer of leaves, maybe 6" thick, to protect from frost, wind, and unusually cold snaps.
(its ok if sarr pitchers poke out the top, you are protecting the rhizome more than the leaves) then uncover them in early spring..

if the pots are small, like 4" diameter pots, you should leave them in the water trays..just so they dont dry out quickly..
if the pots are larger, like 12" diameter, you could probably take them out of the water trays and just pour some water on every few weeks or so..they should stay wet enough..although leaving them in water trays is safer, in case you forget to water..

personally I like my plants to be a bit drier in the winter..not soaking wet, but still damp..
but I wrap my pots in plastic bags all winter, which you wouldnt need to do..
I havent actually ever overwintered plants outdoors..(because I cant)
so I dont really know how people in warmer climes overwinter plants in pots with water trays..
someone else will have to chime in with ideas for that..

You are going into Autumn right now right?
My plants are coming out of dormancy TODAY!! :) woo!
I will update the page soon:
 
  • #10
Yeah, we are just about at the end of summer. The mornings are much brisker than they have been. Normally, in summer, I wake up at 7, go out to water and it's already about 35 degrees Celsius. But not there is a slight chill to it. Winter comes on slowly here, then rushes down like a tempest. We have very, very, very wet winters. Most of the time it will rain daily for the whole season, like last year. I think I might have to put some protection up for the plants, or just move them to a position in the shade house where they wont get too wet. In many ways, the rain is good as if I put out enough sheeting and drip trays, I can collect enough rain water to last me through the entire summer. I normally go through a fair bit because I use it on my orchids as well. Speaking of the heat, I really should post up some pictures of my cactus and succulent collection in the respected forum, just to show some the the people that live in cooler climates, the difference in growth when living in a climate like mine. Sorry if I sound like too much of a noob, but the whole CPs thing is still new to me. Orchids and cacti I have been growing for a few years. CPs have always been my favourite, but I had avoided them due to a lack of available information regarding my climate. Long story story short, I now have a fair few... lol. I think everything is going good though and this morning, I might have found myself a source of peat-moss. Though it's not sphagnum peat, it has to be better than coco-peat, right?
 
  • #11
I might have found myself a source of peat-moss. Though it's not sphagnum peat, it has to be better than coco-peat, right?

Maybe not. Peat refers to any partially decayed vegetable matter so it could be from pine needles, sedge grasses or whatever.

Peat Moss or Moss Peat usually, but not always, refers to peat from Sphagnum moss. So even if the bag says Peat Moss/Moss Peat you should check to see if it is unadulterated Sphagnum (no additives or fertilizers).

Sphagnum peat moss is ideal because it can hold 20 times it's weight in water, is slightly acid and decomposes (releases nutrients) very slowly. It is this last two properties that are probably the most important when growing Carnivorous Plants.
 
  • #12
*sigh* Again, I really do have to thank you guys for being so patient with me. I ask heaps of questions and stress out a great deal. It's funny really, I mean most people expect writers and academics to be calm, patient people...
 
  • #13
LOL! You shoulda seen my original newbie questions! I'm sure I've exasperated a few of the hobbyists - and still do! Hey, it's an educational process.
 
Back
Top