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Thread: White LED experiment

  1. #17
    mobile's Avatar
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    I don't know for sure if CRI has any affect but I know that my plants grow better under ceramic (HCI), rather than quartz (HQI) metal halide lighting. Both types of MH lamps were the same colour temperature but the HCI has a much better CRI and looked whiter. So far, I have found metal halide to be the best grow light, far superior to fluorecents in my conditions, but the running costs are high. If I could get an LED setup that gives similar results to MH then that would be my Nirvana.

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    Sounds like we pretty much have the same philosophy, Av8tor1. I much prefer viewing my plants under "natural" light, even if the alternatives might give marginal improvements in growth.

    Your comment about "accessory pigments, beneficial organisms and phytopathogens" is interesting. It reminds me of the reef aquarium hobby being revolutionized when people realized the value of biodiversity (live rock, live sand etc...) Not really an apples/apples comparison, but I wonder if nuances of the bog ecosystem are being overlooked by the CP hobby as a whole.

  3. #19
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    I dislike using the term lumens, but this should be approx. 450 lumen at 750ma and do it at 85CRI

    Imagine the level of light flux density, impressive!

    now if they were only 1/20th of the current price LOL
    Av

  4. #20
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    I bet that you check and double check the driver current and wiring before you power it up

  5. #21
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    Omg yes, and have the current level control potentiometer at minimum output LOL...
    I should have all the needed components in another week or so to do a smoke test

    The thermal glue is coming from HK.... ugh

  6. #22
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    I smoked my very first 'high power' LED by getting it wrong. It was a 1W blue LED, which at the time was quite expensive. I was an electronics test technician at the time

  7. #23

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    Av,

    What are you using for your constant current driver? I'm assuming it's an IC like the CAT4101 or something similar with PWM dimming since you said you're using a pot.

    Have any circuit diagrams you'd share?

    I'm currently running 2 3-up Endor stars at 1000mA on LM317 configured to limit current. My thermal management is overkill, so I'm not worried too much about efficiency. I'm getting around 1600 lumens at 19.2 watts.

  8. #24
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    Ent.... I looked at the various options including the 317, but decided to go with a buckpack. The only local source I have is Radio Shack (rural area) and their component supply is pitiful anymore. I do have a couple PWM project circuits laying around (555 based w/pwr trans IIRC) but meh... might go down that road later.

    So with the externally adjustable buckpack at under 20 bucks... well why not, with correct input voltage they can drive up to 7 rebels in series I believe (3.2vdc ea. @ 700ma)

    http://www.luxdrive.com/download/?dmid=1126

    Are you using passive cooling at 1000ma?, if so what is your approx heatsink surface area per watt?

    I really don't want to go with fans

    Av

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