Have you got anything that can measure light output, to give a quantitative comparison between the LED and CFL?
Next time I go by my lab Ill pick up a small solar cell.... I'm sure its probably more sensitive to one wavelength or another, but it will be something. Ill compare its output with both light sources.
Might be a couple weeks, I'm on summer holiday and don't go by school much (its 72Km one way)
I do have the spectrometer at home, I'll get a picture using it.
Let there be light....
I wanted to use a heli but with using only one Tristar the close distance resulted in major shadowing.
I know some of the documentation says P. gypsicola prefers shade, I'll keep a eye on it for any signs of discomfort. However, its been on the top shelf of my plant rack and near my T5's since I got it a few weeks ago and seemed to be happy enough.
Plus it should be acclimated to high light levels.
Obviously the camera is doing its best to compensate for the lighting, but notice the distinct shadow from the pot.
Butch, love the minimalist display there; it looks like a jewelry store setting I saw in SF's Union Square . . .
“Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."
-- Galileo "Biff" Galilei
Just a DIY tek clarification
You should use a 220uF, 50V electrolytic capacitor across the input leads.
Luxeon Star LEDs
On Wed, Jun 9, 2010 at 1:24 PM,
Customers Name Butch
Question The PDF file for the buckpuck driver I purchased mentions using a capacitor if the power supply leads are over 15" long. It further mentions to be aware of polarity. I assume they are suggesting using an electrolytic but it gives no mention of the capacitors specs. I also assume the voltage rating would be something higher then applied voltage but what would be the suggested uf rating? Thanks in advance for your time in this matter. Regards,
submit Question for Luxeon Star LEDs
Last edited by Av8tor1; 06-10-2010 at 02:33 PM.
Well after 3 days the ping lives LOL...
Heatsink is about the right size, it gets warm to the touch... guessing 100-110f. Just for observable purposes the heatsink cools down almost instantly with a little airflow.
Once cool it also takes a bit to get hot again. Very pleased with that, operating temps seem excellent with passive cooling only.
Of course its only been three days but some growth can be seen.
More obvious then that is an definite increase in the "sparkle" of the dew. It's even obvious from a distance.
Dew production has definitely increased.
Color does seem to have increased but at this point the difference is pretty subtle.
The big thing is so far the plant seems to like the light.
It's also important to remember this plant was already use to my T5's
Day 3 (sorry for the large image but its really required to see the detail)
I'm keeping a keen eye on this experiment. I like to have a 'feature plant' in my living room. Currently I achieve this by having a plant under a compact fluorescent but it would look so much nicer if I could have a nice spot source, such as an LED. I was considering using a 35W metal halide but this LED looks like it might be a viable alternative.
So far its pretty dang impressive. One thing I would do different would be get the 1000ma Buckpack driver. Since they have externally adjustable models in all three sizes (350ms/700ma/1000ma) there is really no reason not too. They are only a dollar or two difference in price. Even if you didn't use it, you would have the extra power there if you needed it. I don't think you could get by with passive cooling at 1000ma though. But you could probably get by with a low RPM/Low dB /Low Cfm fan. The light itself reminds me of the small halogens you see used in some of the nicer motel lifts... it does have "bling" and its a very nice "true" white light
Still much to learn before I would say jump..... but very promising. I just wish they weren't still so expensive. However, for the application you're considering, it could be the ideal light. After the trials I'm going to use mine in a similar application. (combined with my peltier experiments)
For large scale plant illumination then they would be too expensive but for a feature plant light it doesn't work out too bad. Was thinking a nice small glass shelf for a single plant and a box shelf above to mount the LED and driver. Low speed fan would be fine, I hardly notice the one in my HD digital satellite receiver/HD recorder so I'm not likely to notice another one.