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White LED experiment

  • #121
Now that Hummer is gonna colour up nicely.

I'm still awaiting my pulchella and lamp but will post pics when I get. Do you mind me appending them to this thread or would you prefer I start a new one Av?
 
  • #122
ohhhhh please append :)

excellent!
 
  • #123
Hi Av,

You mentioned that the 40° should do well. As I stated after, I had ordered the 25° version. It just so happens that the supplier has sent the wrong one and I have a 40° version but before consider sending it back I would like to know why you would have chose that one.

the 40 degrees should do well, the 4200k should do well, the 70cri is a wee on the low side for aesthetics but may do well for plant growth....

happy to see ya testing the waters mobile,
Butch
 
  • #124
The 40 would seem (assumption) to be a better selection for most small plants... wider optical footprint and less chance of overkill when using a 10 gallon aquarium

The 22 degree footprint is just so tiny at these distances

now if it was canopy penetration i was going for, the 22 would be better... but i suspect that it is just a little too much bang for such close distances... I have to wonder if i didn't fry the red cape

but this is all WAG'n and SWAG'n mate
(wild arse guesstimates and sophisticated, wild arse guesstimates)
 
  • #125
hmmm... maybe I'll keep the 40°, as it seems über bright.

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  • #126
Very nice looking outfit Mobile,

Looking at the footprint on the table, just imagine a 22 degree being about half as much...
 
  • #127
The lamp has a concentrated beam, which pretty much fills the canopy of the Heliamphora. The remainder that you see around the tub is a lot less intense scatter. I think 40 Deg is a better choice for this setup.
 
  • #128
does the heatsink seem to get warm?

How many individual emitters?

How do you adjust the driver current?
 
  • #129
does the heatsink seem to get warm?

How many individual emitters?

How do you adjust the driver current?

I'd say that the heatsink was hot rather than warm. I will try to measure it but my thermocouple broke some time ago so I'm resigned to having to use a thermometer. There are four emmitters. I've not really investigated the driver current adjustment but the datasheet lists recommended dimmers. The build quality seems to be quite high, as expected from Philips.
 
  • #130
first impression is "wow, that looks nice"
Phillips is Luxeon, it just dont get any better then them and Cree IMHO...

Great addition to the thread :)
 
  • #131
first impression is "wow, that looks nice"
Phillips is Luxeon, it just dont get any better then them and Cree IMHO...

Great addition to the thread :)
Yes, and I guess they would know better than anyone else on thermal management of their own devices ;)
It remains to be seen how the Heliamphora performs. I have been told that this plant was previousely growing in an open tank, so it should be used to a low humidity. I have it in an open environment so humidity will be pretty much whatever the room is at, plus a little bit extra from the surrounding water tub. I have successfully grown H. minor in a similar position.
 
  • #132
Starting to colour up nicely...

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  • #133
outstanding progress... my ceph is coloring up as well

what is the approx distance to the emitters?
 
  • #135
wow.... close, im about 10"

careful mate....
 
  • #136
Yes, but you have a tighter beam angle.
 
  • #138
Sunday is feeding day (with tomatoes plant food of course!), so I took the opportunity to take a picture of the plant. As you can see, it is putting out new pitchers...

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  • #139
Looking good!
How are you applying the fertilizer and at what strength? The sphagnum looks good too.
 
  • #140
Looking good!
How are you applying the fertilizer and at what strength? The sphagnum looks good too.
Hi,

The fertiliser is N4.0 P4.5 K8.0 and I apply it at dilution strength of 4ml/l, every two or three weeks.
 
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