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Thread: Opinions on Standing Water for Droseras

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    SerMuncherIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    Small update. I did some reading on humidity and decided that a steady level of 45%-50% even when misted wasn't enough.
    I'm not a Ping grower, but for your Drosera species that is more than enough - capensis and spatulata stay dewy for me at 30% RH or even less. Higher humidity has a better chance of causing problems with mold on both the media and the leaves if you ever feed the plants. I'm comparing the older growth on your plants to the newer growth, and it seems that your main issue is light. High humidity is a quick way to get your plants to produce "faux" dew (which is mostly just water anyway), but for the plants to grow best and produce the most dew possible they need sufficient lighting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SerMuncherIV View Post
    I'm not a Ping grower, but for your Drosera species that is more than enough - capensis and spatulata stay dewy for me at 30% RH or even less. Higher humidity has a better chance of causing problems with mold on both the media and the leaves if you ever feed the plants. I'm comparing the older growth on your plants to the newer growth, and it seems that your main issue is light. High humidity is a quick way to get your plants to produce "faux" dew (which is mostly just water anyway), but for the plants to grow best and produce the most dew possible they need sufficient lighting.
    I was worried about that... Do you think it would be worth waiting a few more weeks to see if the lights are actually enough or just go for a higher cfl now? At the moment they're both 150w equivalents.

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    I'll try to get a pic of mine up later. I would let the pygmy gemmae establish then allow other plants to grow in around them. Prune back as needed.

    The peaty pool is common. If you try it again soak your peat ahead of time and use the stuff that settles after a few hours. If anything still floats when you flook it in the tank just try to scoop it off the top. I'm also establishing an aquatic utric in there so that keeps the peat settled as well.

    40-50% should be fine for pings as well. I agree that it seems the light could definitely be stronger.
    Last edited by Axelrod12; 12-28-2015 at 01:51 PM.

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    SerMuncherIV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    I was worried about that... Do you think it would be worth waiting a few more weeks to see if the lights are actually enough or just go for a higher cfl now? At the moment they're both 150w equivalents.
    Your lights seem to be enough to keep the plants in reasonably good health, but if you want to grow them to their full potential you'll need more lighting. Waiting a few weeks won't change anything, the newer green foliage on the (presumably) red-form capensis speaks for itself. If increasing the lighting is inconvenient or isn't worth the investment to you, don't worry about it too much, capensis and spatulata are still unstoppable and will grow well even in lower lighting, they just won't get as much color or dew as they could.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SerMuncherIV View Post
    Your lights seem to be enough to keep the plants in reasonably good health, but if you want to grow them to their full potential you'll need more lighting. Waiting a few weeks won't change anything, the newer green foliage on the (presumably) red-form capensis speaks for itself. If increasing the lighting is inconvenient or isn't worth the investment to you, don't worry about it too much, capensis and spatulata are still unstoppable and will grow well even in lower lighting, they just won't get as much color or dew as they could.
    I would like to max out the plants potential so I will look into higher wattage cfls.. If I'm using two 40w (150w eq) what size do you think would be a good bump up? 45w or 50w?

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    Quote Originally Posted by summit View Post
    I would like to max out the plants potential so I will look into higher wattage cfls.. If I'm using two 40w (150w eq) what size do you think would be a good bump up? 45w or 50w?
    Sorry, I'm no lighting expert, and I'm not sure what wattage is the safety max for your fixture. I only employ one 150W equivalent 3500K CFL, but that's used in tandem with my T5 setup. If using CFLs gets too convoluted, it might be a good idea to consider the T5 strip you talked about on the first page.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SerMuncherIV View Post
    Sorry, I'm no lighting expert, and I'm not sure what wattage is the safety max for your fixture. I only employ one 150W equivalent 3500K CFL, but that's used in tandem with my T5 setup. If using CFLs gets too convoluted, it might be a good idea to consider the T5 strip you talked about on the first page.
    Only issue with the t5 strip I found was that the max wattage it could handle was 23w... and I really don't want a 48" strip. I'll check out online on what the next wattage bulbs that have. As for my fixture, it can handle up to 100w bulbs in each socket.

    I found a 55 watt 5000k and a 65 watt 6500k
    Last edited by summit; 12-28-2015 at 03:27 PM.

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    How big is your tank? Could you obtain a 2 foot t5 fixture if 4' is too much. Determining how powerful your lights are isn't just a matter of watts. Spiral cfls waste a lot of light due to their shape. A reflector can help with that. A t5ho fixture with reflector would be better. It directs more of its light down towards the plants.

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