SA = South America? I suppose it depends on exactly where you live, but a terrarium likely isn't necessary, and isn't the easiest way to start with CPs. There's a lot of plants that will grow just fine at moderate, and even very low humidity.
@Arries short answer, I don't see why it wouldn't work with Nepenthes.
Then as nimbulan mentioned it may not be necessary, depending on many factors.
Most Nep are quite happy even in partial sun and for me are growing outside with only 1-2h of morning and 1-2h of evening sun, protected by the shade of a tree during hottest hours. This was clearly not enough sunlight for droseras, vft and sarr that looked terrible.
Neps can be happy behind a window so you may be able to grow them in your house without any additional light.
Of course all of that depends a lot on the actual conditions where you live. I'm like nimbulan on this one, not sure either what SA stands for. I was thinking of South Africa, but it seems SA is the official country code for Saudi Arabia. Definitively different weather and Neps may not survive outdoor conditions everywhere.
It also depends on the neps you want to grow. You will probably find more advices in the Nep section of the forum for specific species.
Hi yes sorry SA=South Africa.. Well humidity is like 30% and that's winter..My 1st nep would grow but not pitcher due to low humidity..Stuck him in a old aquarium with 10x40w cfl's and keeping humidity at 80-95% and he has 4 new pitchers forming now.. But anyway going off topic.. I will give the lights a try and see what happens.. Stuff is just hard to find here and very expensive if you do.. And don't always trust the EBay stuff...
What kind of nepenthes do you have? Many species can acclimate to low humidity and still pitcher in low humidity.
The profile pic that you see above is my actual photo. I am a hyper-intelligent snake that has learned to use the internet and I will eventually rule you all.
Just kidding..... Or am I?
@gill_za as far I can tell they do. I will try to take a few pictures of what I have, maybe by this week end.
I don't really have plants that should be dark red (until the cephalotus produce a new mature pitcher to compare with existing ones), but my H. minor x heterodoxa seems to grow nicely and I think that's my most light hungry plant.
Pretty cool project, emc2! I'm still an Arduino beginner, so I don't completely understand the purpose of the custom PCB. Is it mainly controlling the DC side of the LED driver? What is the advantage of your custom PCB over using a 120VAC relay directly controlled by Arduino? For the monitoring, you can just directly connect DHT22 etc to the Arduino, right?
I'd like to learn more about micro controller because I want to eventually make CO2 injection controller. So far, I've tried ESP8266 with DHT22 as the remote node, and OpenHAB on RaspberyPi as the logger. But I'm having a reliability issue with ESP8266, and I became busy with other things.
MySensors webpage is not easy to understand. Is it an Arduino library, which you can use to program Arduino?
Last edited by naoki; 06-15-2016 at 12:32 AM.
Yes the main purpose is controlling the DC side of the LEDs, a DC 12V to control a fan, and host a few sensors or at least convenient spots to wire them.
Advantage of DC control vs AC:
- I can power everything from the DC line, no need to add an independent AC/DC converter.
- safer to do DIY on low voltage (especially when humidity / water is involved around)
- Ability to use the arduino to dim the LEDs using PWM pins. You can either have an expensive (and bulky) LED driver, or DIY using a cheaper one (but still a very good quality dimmer)
You can connect a DHT22 to an arduino, correct. I prefer alternative I2C sensors as all the logic is 3.3V and some DHT22 are unstable at this voltage, they usually prefer 5V. But technically you can yes. CO2 detectors exists in I2C so you can definitively monitor your CO2 levels with the arduino too: Air Quality Sensor | MySensors Forum
I had an ESP8266 gateway, but it was not reliable either. Since then I switched by adding directly my wireless gateway to the Pi GPIO using GitHub - emc2cube/MySRaspiGW: MySensors Raspberry Pi GPIO SMD gateway with DomoticZ as the controller. So far so good.
Yes, MySensors is a bundle of libraries to create a mesh network of arduino devices (sensors, actuators) that you can control with various softwares such as OpenHab or Domoticz, ideally running on a Raspberry Pi. The community in the forums is really nice, don't be shy to ask questions there, they are very knowledgable.
Thanks for the additional info, emc2! So it is connected downstream (DC side) of CC driver (LPC-60), and this DC is getting used for driving fan (and other things). Am I correct? If so, is there any efficiency penalty?
When I was adding a thermal protection (thermal switch attached to the heatsink), I heard that the cut-off switch should be at the AC side of the CC driver instead of DC side. When you cut off the DC side, the CC driver try to increase the voltage to get the current, then over-voltage protection circuit (of decent drivers) kicks in and shut it down. Some people said that this is not so nice for the driver. I'm not sure if I should believe it or not, but the person seemed to know. When you are turning off, you are basically cutting off the DC side, right? Do you happen to know if this is bogus or not?
Here is an example: Message #14 of this thread.
Thank you for the other info, I need to learn about MySensors!
Last edited by naoki; 06-15-2016 at 12:44 AM.
I think you definitely should cut off the AC side. But of course if the AC side is high voltage (like 110 or 220 V) it's much more difficult to make safe connections. I myself have made the controllers from scratch so my thermal cutoff switches cut off the DC coming in to the controller from a separate power supply. I also have made a separate safety circuit which have to be reset by hand if it trips.
Looking for N. Campanulata hybrids. Also would like to grow some nepenthes from seed. Growlist/pic thread: http://www.terraforums.com/forums/sh...-Pete-s-plants