Look at this.. 200 Watt CFs, looks great. If it was just available here
Ok, could someone tell me what i need to get for a compact flourecent setup. I'm tryin to light up a 60"H by 60"W by 30"L grow chamber. I already have four , 40 watt daylight flourecent tubes on the top, and the chamber is infront of a window that gets a little light, but I still need more. What do you sugdest? I bought 4 compact flourecent bulbs (the daylight kind) that are 13 watts and give out 800 lumens each. Will four of theese suckers be good enough to raise the lighting? Thats an extra 3200 lumens added to the whole chamber, plus the 4 daylight tubes, and a little sunlight.
What wattage light should I get for my desktop lamp? I'm going to head over to Home Depot and get one of those compact flourescents that fit in incandescent fixtures, and I want to get something that'll provide adequate light but not make my room so bright that I need sunglasses to see anything. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_n_32.gif[/img]
My plants will be right under it, but the lamp is fairly tall so I shouldn't have to worry about it being overly close to the terrarium (small from this site btw, if that matters).
Some random words.
Lord. *I have done much extensive research over the past few days. *I have found the following to be true-
always cool, much cooler than metal halides
spectrum range up to around 6500K in color temp.
may be more expensive than metal halide
more lumen output per wattage than metal halide
can be put much closer to plants
may or may not be self balassed
can be placed in any position
very high heat output
Must be placed considerable distance from plants
yellower in spectrum
less lumens per wattage
requires a HEAVY external ballast
MUST be horizontal
Ok, let me give some examples;
a typical daylight metal halide bulb
250 watts=20,000 lumens= perhaps around $25 min to about $75
400watts=40,000 lumens= perhaps around $50 min to about $75
typical Daylight spectrum compact fluorecent bulbs
125 watt=14,500 lumens= perhaps around $75
200 watt=unknown= perhaps around $190
Now, since the lumen output in theese bulbs is pretty uniform in both types of bulbs, we can guess that a 200 watt cf is about * * *by adding 3/5 of 14500lm to itself. *So, we have 14,500 + 8,700 = about 23,200 lumens for a 200 watt bulb. *Now, if we have two 125 watt cf's (250 watts) their combined lumens adds to 29,000, for about $150 compared to the mh's which come as one 250 watt bulb with only 20,000 lumens and about $25 to $75
Conclusion, metal halide are less enerygy efficient and much hotter, but they are much cheaper. *Again, in a 400 watt mh, lumens are 40,000, but with two cf's at 200 watts each, the combined lumens should be about 46,400. *In both comparisons, the lumen output of cf's tops mh's by about 6,000 to 9,000, but they are more expensive, although they will assuredley save you money on power bills. *I plan on getting two 125 watters for $150 instead of a 400 watt mh, although I still haveto pay for the bulb power cords, and some cheap reflectors. *What you guys think?
You will also need to vent your setup possibly.
So far I have had fairly good results using lots of $8 - 4 foot shop light fixtures with $1 each 40 watt, cool white, fluorescent lamps. If the plants are low enough I keep them 3 inches or less from the lamps. I have two shelves where I can raise the lamps higher in order to accomodate taller plants. I have the lights on digital timers and run them for 15 hours during our nightime here in Tucson, Arizona. I run the lights at night to avoid overstressing our air conditioner which works 24/7 during our summer to keep our indoor temperatures around 85F or less during the day and down to 75F at night. This basically means that the plants in the plant room, under lights see about 90F during the night, which is their day, while they have an ultrasonic humidifier mist distributed by a PC muffin fan running 24/7 and the dry cooling breeze from the air conditioner swirling around them distributed by other room fans 24/7. During true day when the plant room is dark (effectively plant night) 9am -6pm, the air conditioner keeps it between 75 - 80F in summer and it goes as low as 65F during the cooler months of the year. During true night when the plant room is lit by the fluorescent lamps (effectively plant day) 6pm - 9am, despite the air conditioner, which keeps most of the house cooler, the plant room, because of the lights and ballast can get up to 80 - 90F during plant day. This can create even more of a day/night differential in the cooler months, because the plant room still gets just as warm as in the summer, yet gets even cooler at night.
--Cool and moist air is circulated around the plants day and night 24/7/365 by use of ultrasonic humidifier, central air conditioning vent, and room circulating fans.
--6pm - 9am (plant day) Temp = 80 - 90F becaus of all the lights and ballast running in the small room.
--9am - 6pm (plant night) Temp = 75 - 80F due to air conditioning not having to work against the heat produced by the lights. In fall, winter, and spring plant night usually gets even cooler, naturally, even without air conditioning, down to mid 60's F, this is because whenever it is cooler outside than 75F, which is as warm as we ourselves feel comfortable, we open all the windows in the house, and even put fans in some to draw it in and others to force the hotter air out.
I used to use all kinds of different fancy and expensive 40 watt fluorescent plant lights. Verilux, power twists, agrolights, etc. The plants grew just as well for me under simple, cheap, discount, $1 each / or less, cool white shop lamps; as long as I use as many as I can squeeze into 18 inch wide x 48 inch long shelves - - which is usually 6. I have heard suggestions that I plan to try once I have migrated most of my collection to the greenhouse which is nearing operational status.
Tucson, Arizona, U S A
I can't say enough about how important that night time differential is. CP react to dynamic conditions favorably, and without a little bit of "weather" to any set up, whether it be an open rack or a terrarium there will be some problems. It is essential to maintain a good relationship between heat, light, humidity and air circulation. Finding an acceptable balance between these factors is what will result in plant growing success. This is rather elementary, but often difficult to actually produce. With many light ballasts comes heat, and this must be dealt with. Most CP need to refersh themselves at night to stay happy, although they can take the days heat provided they are in reasonable humidity. Joseph lives where there is no reasonable humidity, in fact, there is no humidity at all! So, the use of an ultrasonic humidifier is essential. In conditions of higher natural humditiy, this might be overkill, especiall without good air circulation. Apart from growing Nepenthes and Heliamphora, there is little profit to be had in running a mister or fogger into a terrarium where there is no air circulation. In high humidity, air circulation is vital to discourage pathogens from attacking the plants. Too much air circulation without such humidity may actually be detrimental since it can dry out the plants. So, it is a balance: like yin/yang, one set of conditions affects and compliment all the others. Any change within one set is likely to entail a change within another, and there are possible consequences if this balance is ignored. Much light = heat = need for higher humidity = need for increased air circulation. But of all these conditions, light is the most significant. Let there be light!
"Grow More, Share More"
what about for drosera & VFT?
I have some new observations of comparissons between compact fluorecents and metal halides. First off, the lumen outpu of cf's, and just about all grow lights can not be calculated by adding smaller bulbs. For example, two 65 watt cf bulbs will not be the same as a cf bulb of equal wattage (130 watts). It veries extremely, and the luminosity of a bulb can not be calculated by that of smaller wattage bulbs, or even different brand bulbs of the same type! Meaning, you must get the lumens output for each bulb from specific testing. Now, comparing cf's and metal halides of equal wattage shows that cf's have higher lumen outputs. However I thought that having four 125 watt cf bulbs would be greater wattage than the leading 1000 watt metal halide bulbs, but in fact, four cf's equals much less lumens than one 1000 watt bulb. So... dont make the mistake I did. Cf's wont effeciently equal the lumens of very high wattage mh's, unless they make the bulbs as a single 1000 watt, or whatever.
By the way, my 125 watt cf is between 12,000 and 14,500 lumens
4 of theese = 1000 watts = 58,000 lumens
1,000 Metal halide bulbs = between 110,000 and 120,000 lumens
Lesson is, dont buy a bunch of small wattage bulbs no matter how cheap, to equal the lumens of higher power bulbs.
is it ok to use a 70watt lamp on my plants in a 1 gallon terrarium?