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Electrical questions

  • Thread starter lithopsman
  • Start date
  • #41
A power supply plugs driectly into the wall. There is a spot on the back to put a power cord into (plug gets plugged into the back, then into the wall)

The powersupply will have a few sets of wires comming off it. One will have a long connector (the longest one of the bunch). This is your ATX connector, you won't use that. The other two will have 2-3 connectors each, they will be smaller 4 holed plugs called molex plugs. There will be 4 wires in them. 2 black wires (these are your grounds) a red wire (5v rail I THINK, double check from the diagram on your powersupply) and a yellow wire, the 12V rail (again, double check I could be wrong and I don't feel like taking my rig apart to check.)

I would really suggest that you pick up a book at rat shack about the basics of electronics before you go any further. Its a lot cheaper than frying more parts, or worse zapping yourself.


Casper
 
  • #42
Thanks again (again again) Casper!
Here's what it looks like so far:

Return four AC power supplies (don't need these, right?)
Get a new PSU with wire connections for 3 devices. (any specifics?)
Toss fried pelt.
Hook up functional stuff.
YAY!!
After I do all of this, I will let you know how it works.
Thanks a million!!  
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P.S. Why do you call Radio Shack-Rat Shack? Just wondering...
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  • #43
"Return four AC power supplies (don't need these, right?)"


Whats an AC power supply?

Any computer power supply will have enough connectors for what you need.

"P.S. Why do you call Radio Shack-Rat Shack? Just wondering..."

Shrug, just sorta fits after you go there enough times.

Casper
 
  • #44
Ok, thanks!! The AC power supply is the plug-into wall cord with raw wire at the end... The evil device that popped the pelt... I don't thunk I need any of these anymore, not even for the PSU. If I'm wrong, please correct me unelectronic knowlagable self... THANKS AGAIN AGAIN AGAIN AGAIN!!
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  • #45
Rofl

Your trying bud, I gotta give ya that.

Think of a powersupply as an air conditioner for electricity.
In the heat of the summer, the air outside isn't really suitable for inside your house. So you have something that conditions the air to a more suitable temp/humidity.

Same thing, a power supply "conditions" the electricty for you.

A plug with bare wires on one end, is just a plug with bare wires at the end. I am sure there is a more technical term, but..

BTW: I don't know if you knew this, but for my lights (some of them you have to wire) instead of buying a plug, and wire, and doing all that work. Home Depot sells 25' outdoor ext. cords for under 5 bucks. Just cut the end of it off at the leagnth you need, and twist the wires together. (They are color coded, match em up, twist um, tape em, wire nut)

Saves time and money


Casper
 
  • #46
Ok, now I'm just tracking down a power supply, then I'm off to the races! THANKS AGAIN (x20 or 30)!!
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  • #47
UPDATE!: I am 90% sure that I have tracked down a free powersupply, and should have it between Monday and Wednesday!!
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YAY! THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE, I'll post how it works as soon as I get a good idea for myself... THANKS!!
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  • #48
Oh No Lithsopman is going to do more electrical work
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. It's been nice knowing you bud. I hope you have all the plants you ever wanted in the afterlife. We'll miss you.
 
  • #49
Ouch! Please say that was a joke, it was just a stupid mistake on my part... besides, I've done more than you might think... Also, I'll wear rubber gloves, so there! HAH!!
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  • #50
Of course it was a joke!!! I hope.
But then again if you obey the rules I posted there would be no need for rubber gloves.
 
  • #51
Ok, thanks! But either way, I will wear rubber gloves, just to be on the safe side...
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Sorry if I seemed offended, I'm just a bit sensitive (wink wink nod nod)
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  • #52
Ok, since I'll be getting the PSU today, I figured that it would be best to get these things sorted out...



</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">AT= old computer standard. Basically its the motherboard layout, they standardized the components for the most part (ie size, and ports) basically so you could use it in any "AT" case etc... (really short version)

ATX= the current standard.


The dif. in the power supply is with a newer ATX psu you will have to fool it into thinking it is connected to a motherboard.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>

Is there something special to do in order to "fool" the power supply?
I plan on just hooking it up to a timer to run for a little while every night...

So, here is my step by step:
1) Match up wire colors on pelt, fans
2) Splice accordingly
3) Tape up any extra wires
4) Hope I have the right kind of plug
5) If I do, plug it in.

THANKS AGAIN!!  
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 (I officially stopped counting how many times you helped me at about 100,000!  
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  • #53
I got the PSU today... I do however have some questions now that I see this thing in person...

1) There are two black wires in the red-black-black-yellow groupings, but my fans only have one... Which one should I use, or does it matter?

2) There are different widths of the same color pattern wire, which usually means different voltage... Which ones are correct for two small heatsink fans?

3) My peltier cell only has two wires, a red and a black. Which thickness and which black wire should I utilize?

Also, the thing to attatch the plug to on the back looks a little bit wierd, will a normal extension cord work, or is it something fancy?
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Thanks again everyone, I'm almost done!!
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  • #54
Ok, since I am at the office and I don't have a reference to look at, I am going to tell you how to figure it out.

If you look on the side of your PSU it will tell you the voltage of all your wires, and specifically which is ground etc... Now, if you look at the packaging or litarature that came with your pelt, it will tell you the voltage requirements.

Once you have all that info, post it.

Your fans should just match up color-wise if they are built for computers.

And there is a plug that comes with PSU's. If you didn't get one, I would advise buying one from a local store, or online, they should be pretty cheap. You might be able to rig something up. I have never had the need to try though.


Casper
 
  • #55
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHH YYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!
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It worked!! It's all setup and pretty much done thanks to Casper and Ozzy. I say pretty much because although everything is working, the coldsink fan is not incredibly powerful. For that reason, I am going to put another WAY more powerful fan right underneath the original coldsink fan, that way, there is a more powerful fan blowing the cold air farther. I'll do some temp measurements and let everyone know how it goes. THANKS AGAIN!!
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  • #56
He's Alive!!!!! He survived..!!

I'm glad that you have it working. I'm even more glad that you made it out alive.
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  • #57
LOL! Ok, here are the readings from last night:
After 45 minutes of running, the tank went from approx. 72*F down to 65*F. Not bad, but I'll keep trying different stuff. I really don't want to cut up the lid, but I may have to cut an area for ultimate efficency.
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 THANKS for all of the help!!  
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  • #58
Remember, the more heat you remove from the warm side the cooler the cold side gets.
 
  • #59
Yep, I've got the bigger heatsink on the hot side, the main part is just getting the cold air where it goes... so I may cut the top a little, and put the coldsink into the tank just a bit, I just don't want to do that unneccesarily(sp?). Thanks again!!
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  • #60
Do you have a fan on the heatsink?
 
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