With five plants you can hope that one might survive. More than that would be unusual. If they all die then that might not reflect on you - it is just very hard to adapt wild-grown Cyp. acaule to cultivation, probably due to the quite profound fungal symbiosis that wild plants achieve. Plants propagated in vitro have lived their lives (outside of flask anyway) without such quite intimate contact with the fungus and can cope better with transplanting and so forth. But they are very expensive.
Soil can be either organic or mineral. I don't like the sound of the soil on the website linked to above. Peat and spagnum derivatives are not ideal in cultivation. There IS a semi-bog-growing form of C. acaule, but as yours come from woodland - along with all I have heard of in cultivation - don't attempt that as they will just rot away. Go for a humousy, acidic, pine-foresty mix with very good drainage:
Organic: mix equal parts pine needles, pine needle mulch, coarse sand and grit (sterilise the compost by baking in the oven and cooling prior to use)
Inorganic: mix equal parts seramis, grit and perlite
(Seramis might not be available in the US - I don't know. It's a medium-grade clay product. Perhaps lava/pumice granules would be a good subsitute)
Or create a hybrid of these soils - just has to be non-alkaline, moisture-retentive and very free draining. The problem with organic soils is that thay can harbour fungus and other undersirables, the benefit is that they add nutrition which the plants like. I use pine mulch from a local pine forest - in the US if you can get redwood mulch it will be even better as it's very acidic. My mix is seramis, grit, sand and this pine mulch.
The plants need very stronly acidic conditions at the root. The general method to achieve this is to dilute a teaspoon or two of cider vinegar with a liter of rainwater and water the plants with this. Other vinegars/organic acids don't give as good results for some reason.
Moderate shade. Soil moist in spring, allowing to dry somewhat more over summer until the plants die down (imitate the rainfall getting to the floor of a loose wodland as the trees start to shelter the floor really). I then put my pots out of doors for the winter to get the "normal" rainfall and frosts that they need for proper dormancy.
I have bought wild-collected plants (well, sourced on private property, but still for all intents and purposes, wild) and I know they come from a region where they are not under threat. However, the very high mortality rate for them means I doubt I will try this method again. It just isn't fair on the wild populations when we can't get them to transplant at all reliably. You won't know if you've been successful until the second year of new growth starts with them in your care.
Good luck!