User Tag List

Informational! Informational!:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Premature flower drop

  1. #1
    swords's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Cernunnos Woods
    Posts
    8,120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm having a problem with my Masdevallia 'Morning Dove' hybrid. the flowers spike and bloom well and look great but within one to 2 weeks the flower falls off at the junction where the flowers attach to the stalk. They do not wither they drop off looking picture perfect - which is what maddens me! I know these guys' flowers last a long time as well they bloom constantly but I'm confused with this.
    It is in highland nepenthes/cloud forest conditions so the temp and humidity and lighting should be groovy. They are quite a distance from the lights as I recall frying my first one with way too much light. The leaves don't have any deformities and the plant is filling it's pot with new growth.
    Could lack of phosphorous cause this perhaps?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated! [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif[/img]

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Posts
    432
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Not that I have any suggestions. I'm just moving this up to the top so people will see it. Some one must know the answer..........

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    396
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would say that you need to describe your growing conditions more thoroughly it would also be helpful to know your water source and feeding regimen and with what?
    no detail is too small!
    My first thought would be a temp/humidity issue.
    short of that a nutrient problem, have you checked the ph of your water and growing media lately?
    I hope you see that we need more information to give you any.

    Peace [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Peace

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    396
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hmm Phosphorus deficiency. . . generaly indications are as follows, accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint{in the leaves}, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency.
    FWIW

    Hope this helps

    Peace [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Peace

  5. #5
    swords's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Cernunnos Woods
    Posts
    8,120
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, well I suppose "groovy" isn't quite a description of my highland setup eh? [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif[/img]

    There is 220 watts of power compact flourescent lighting Orchids are 30" from lights seperated by glass but could be placed under the nepenthes bench where there is roughly 1/2 the amount of light but humidity is at 100% down there.
    The chamber is entirely enclosed and maintains 80%+ humidity at all times. The air inside is saturated with thick fog about 10-20 times a day, humidity is regulated by a Trion humidistat set at maximum (80%) but I keep the humidistat near the lights where it's dryer so that it fools the humidistat to making the plants closer to 90%. There is a constant flow of fresh humidified air supplied by a 4" fan from either the room (during the day) or window/AC (at night) to give the temp difference of 70-85*F days (depending upon season) and 50-60*F nights year round.

    My source water is always either R/O or distilled.

    This particular Masd.has started abortring flowers before they open fullyand there is starting to develop light yellow dappled spots on a few of the leaves. is it getting too much light? I have begun feeding all of them with 1/4 strength GrowMore Urea Free orchid fertilizer every other watering.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    396
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok well It certainly isnt an evironmental factor, and its doenst sound like sun burn.
    Im leaning more towards a Calcium and or Magnesium deffiency it could also be Potassium
    So here are some general rules.
    Calcium;

    Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.

    Calcium Deficiency

    Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Flower development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.

    Calcium Toxicity

    Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.

    Magnesium;

    Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a cofactor in most enzymes.

    Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.

    Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Younger leaves will exhibit upward curling of leaf margins in some cases.

    This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 teaspoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at 1/8 teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.

    If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is fairly hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.

    Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.


    Potassium;

    Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce flower and fruit production.

    Potassium deficiency (K).

    Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.

    Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure(a source of N), and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

    Potassium (K) Toxicity

    Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.

    I hope these help. I think you may have a K defficiency but I couldnt say for sure with out seeing the plant. It would also be helpfull to know what your ph is as this can sometimes lead to nutrient lockout as well.
    For now you may want to pick up Growmores 20-6-16,
    Theyve added Ca and Mg and I believe a few other micro-nutrients as well.
    FWIW

    Peace [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif[/img]
    Peace

Similar Threads

  1. Premature Pitcher Opening Ramispina
    By DrWurm in forum Tropical Pitcher Plants  (Nepenthes)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-01-2008, 09:02 PM
  2. Question on Temperature Drop
    By slau in forum Tropical Pitcher Plants  (Nepenthes)
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 01-13-2007, 03:30 PM
  3. A drop of water
    By ImWindPlant in forum Venus Flytrap (Dionaea ) Care Information & Tips
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-05-2006, 11:26 AM
  4. Size of a dew drop
    By droseradude in forum Sundews (Drosera), Byblis, Drosophyllum
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-09-2003, 08:44 PM
  5. Premature pitchers
    By vft guy in SJ in forum Pitcher Plants: (Sarracenia, Heliamphora, Darlingtonia, Cephalotus)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-14-2003, 09:52 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •