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Thread: Sarracenia dormancy

  1. #1

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    Alright last year most of my sarracenia didnt do to well over dormancy. I think the problem was that i had my sarrs in one of those 4 tier greenhouses and it was in the sun. the problem was is the temp inside on a cold winter day like say 30 deggrees it would be 70 inside the greenhouse. but at night it would bomb drob down to like 24 the temp of an average outside night tempature for philadelphia. What is basically happening is the pots thaw and freeze every day which i think was too much for them. another thing was fungi was at them when it got warm in there during the day. So basically this year im not doing that they are better out in the open protected by a wooden frame or something or a cover of pine needles or straw or just a plastic cover that wasnt clear and didnt heat up underneath. Ok well mostly what i have thats temperate are some drosera intermedia , filiformis ssp fill, anglica, which these are very hardy so i shouldnt need to worry about them ill just mulch them a bit. Now my purpurea and my s. catesbei shouldnt be a problem with the cold. i have a rubra , oreophila, flava, judith hindle and a purpurea x oreo) flava, and i have a leucophylla in which i know they arnt hardy much at all and its better off like in my basement window in which isnt warm but isnt cold. so if you could help me out allitle i have a cold frame that i could use.
    ~Brandon~ aka ~Carnivorkid~
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    Moderator Colieo's Avatar
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    I'm not sure on the hardyness of S.rubra, flava, or leucophylla, but the purpurea should be fine, use lots of mulch. The Oreo and Oreo crosses are said to be very cold hardy. I think you should have good luck, although I have never taken the step of wintering my plants outside...

    Cole
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    herenorthere's Avatar
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    Do you have a place you can dig a little and bury the pots in the ground? Not all the way, but sunk to within 1" of the rim. Do you have a source of leaves (not maple) or pine needles you can put on top? If so, those Sarrs should happily over-winter outside in Philadelphia. That's what I do here just outside of Hartford, CT. I put the pots in a raised bed, which prevents ponding, pile on oak leaves, and also put a lean-to overhead to keep snow off. That last step might not be needed down there.
    Bruce in CT

    Madness is something rare in individuals — but in groups, parties, peoples, ages it is the rule. Friedrich Nietzsche

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    yeah i could definately bury them a bit did you say put them a inch deeper then the pots rim or an inch above. i can get lots of oak leaves , cherry leaves, possibly pine needles but i would have to look. i wont put maple leaves down anyway cause im alergic to maple which is
    strange. [img]http://www.**********.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/new/smile_k_ani_32.gif[/img] well flava i know is hardy cause i had one that overwintered fine exept in spring it rotted by fungus.
    ~Brandon~ aka ~Carnivorkid~
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    herenorthere's Avatar
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    That's important - the rim of the pot is 1" above the ground. I think oak leaves are best and use pin oak leaves. Leave all the pitchers and phylodia on the plants because they'll help keep the leaves from packing down around the plants. The goal isn't to prevent freezing, but to buffer the temperature swings. I figure my plants freeze once and thaw once. And they don't get down to -10F on the coldest winter nights or into 40s on the warmest days. That's good. A lot of people have more elegant solutions, but they have more ambition than me.
    Bruce in CT

    Madness is something rare in individuals — but in groups, parties, peoples, ages it is the rule. Friedrich Nietzsche

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