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Outside

Can sarracenia grow outside in southern california, riverside to be exact. I was just wondering because it is so hot and not very humid all the time.
 
William, Haven't Mastered for years, and probably wouldn't remember how to Mast anytime soon! Sarracenia can be grown outside in Riverside. AND THAT requires no masting at all!
 
uhhhhh.....nerver mind. I'd best keep my trap triggered.
 
Sorry for not responding sooner my computer has been down

Should I keep the pot in a dish w/ water? Do I keep it in direct sunlight?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
 
direct sun! my S. Flava var rugelii (i got confirmation Bugweed!!) is in direct sun and its looking good so far.
alex
 
The key to growing Sarrs in a hot & dry climate is that you must spend the middle of the day breathing on them to maintain adequate humidity.
 
LOL!!!!!! Bruce?? Where'd you get the sense of humor?? LOLOLOL!!!!!!!
 
  • #10
LOL!! I'll Do THat! But really how do I keep humidity?
 
  • #11
Don't worry about humidity; as long as you keep the trays filled with water you shouldn't have any problems. As far as light goes, they can take full sun but you can avoid burnt tips by putting them in partial shade.

Peter
 
  • #12
NOT TRUE!!!!! Yes, two years ago I even believed that. But, Jim Miller, a famous CP'er in our CP history once lived in Sacramento, Ca. Sacramento is well known for its outrageous summer heat, and 1% to 10% humidity, and dessicating hot winds. His S. flava var. atropurpurea always got its hood cooked by the late summer sun. One day, on a whim, he went out and bought a cold water ionizer and set it out with his plants in the spring. As the temps soared, he filled the ionizer and turned it on. He filled it all the time it was really hot outside. To his own amazement, the humidity afforded by the ionizer helped the s. flava var. atropurpurea stop hood burn. Yet more amazing, Jim said he never ever saw that atro look that good EVER! The colors were the most vivid he had ever seen, and recommends the use of an ionizer for those in dryer climes. Try it! It works!
 
  • #13
Hmm..... I took up your guys information and put my Sarracenia outside, on a shady table to slowly introduce it to the light. Also I have it sitting in plenty of water but for some reason its not standing up straight like before, Its kinda bending overbut not completely bent over. Is this normal??
 
  • #14
what i worry about when it comes to putting them out in full sun is the high temps cooking the roots. Is that an issue as well? Also, is there a difference between placing them in deep vs. shallow water trays? I don't mean the water depth....but rather how tall the walls of the water tray go. Perhaps it is a factor when it comes to evaporative cooling if the tray is shallow vs trapping heat within a deeper bin.
 
  • #15
I use rubbermaid dishpans, undrained, for all my plants. S. oreophilas are up front to catch ALL the sun all day. Humidity is 15% right now. They are ACCLIMATED to being outside. Give yours time. LOTS of water, and see about a humidifier/ cold water ionizer for it to help it out. Heat is NOT a factor for the roots unless the pot is too small. Give them lots of room to expand and grow. Soil temps in some bogs have been recorded at 96 to 101 degrees on the hottest days, and the roots in mine are sometimes pretty warm. For s. flava var. atropurpurea, this helps with some of them to produce their rich deep reds. Others are easier to color up, and the soil temps do not make a difference. The plants live in very warm areas, and here in my area the temps hit 108 or 110 regularly. I water them to the top every morning, and let natural evaporation drop the level throughout the day. Otherwise, I leave them alone to grow and prosper on their own. The circulating water bog I made seems to be the best way to keep them, and I just might make a dozen more. Sphagnum grows like crazy in this bog. Seems to work.
 
  • #16
Bug you still haven't drawn up those plans for the circulating bog yet!  I will get them scanned and posted as soon as you draw them!
smile_l_32.gif
 
  • #17
JB, if I can get the pieces and parts, I am going to build a couple
more with a photo shoot for a how to do it. I think that would be better, though I may still give you the plans when life gives me some time to breathe. Never have been so busy!
 
  • #18
Woo hoo I agree a photo shoot would be 100% better!! I can visualize your design in my head, but the only part I am concerned about is the water coming out of the pump to the top part. Doesn't the water motion disturb the peat? Or is it going into another location so it doesn't disturb the peat. I will wait for the pictures! But thats the questions I have and that is what is keeping me from building one for myself.
 
  • #19
I dont see a problem with growing sarracenia's out in Riderside.

I also live in Southern California. Since it does get hotter when you live you might want to get shade cloth over them, so you dont have to water as much. Get deep water trays too that should help.
 
  • #20
Remember, you need a 30 gph or 60 gph pump. The 30 gph will not disturb the peat too much. Weed block is put down first so all stays in place and it offers little resistance to the water. Though it does cause the water to not only bubble up, but following the path of least resistance, fills the container they are in with constantly moving water. Moving water will draw oxygen into the soil and keeps it fresh, and because of well placed holes drilled in strategic places, the water exits, falls back into the base, and keeps adding more oxygen with every drip. My soil base is 17 years old, and still supports the plants in it with absolutely NO LOSS due to rhizome rot. Every year, 1 cup of white vinegar into the water base, keeps the soil and water acidic. BTW, where the water comes up, I cover that with dead (boiled dead) LFS about an inch or two thick. I cover the rest with Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss. You have seen the pics of my working mini bog, and as you know, it works like a champ. It isn't that difficult to make. But finding the right parts is a pain sometimes. Visit any nurseries that specialize in Water Gardening, and get some ideas for fittings and flanges to hold the water feed tube in place to do its job, filter basket under your pump, and tent a piece of weedblock around the filter basket, and using plastic ties, close the weed block around the filter basket and pump, to completely enclose the unit. This prevents any breakdown of peat, or sand to block your pump from working. Maintainance has been low, but the old dish I use for the top of my bog is falling apart, and I will HAVE to replace it soon. Maybe, that would be my photo oppurtunity to show how to do it. When you build one, I want to know how well it is working, and how happy you are you made one. WORTH IT!!!! DEFINITELY!!!!
 
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