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sarracenia germination

upper

Capensis Killer
seed has been stratifying in my fridge for almost 4 week now, in 3 days it'll be 4 week.
i'd like to ask for some help trying to germinate my first sarracenia and cobra lily.
i got 3 specie as a gift from my friend. its a purpurea, leucophylla,and darlingtonia.
purpurea will have to wait 2 more week...
i read in that thread that you can keep the light on 24/7... i was wondering if i can keep it on 24/7 for darlingtonia too.
and can they grow on rehydrated dried nz sphagnum moss?
any tip?
my lighting is 23 watts CF bulb 1600 lumen,
 
potting it tomorrow , any help?:-( ???
 
Can't help you with your lighting question, though I can't see why they wouldn't be fine under the lights 24/7, nor on the NZ sphagnum question. I can tell you that those seeds sprouted fine for me on a 1:1 Peat: perlite mix.
 
i'm not using peat&perlite tho, i dont have perlite. and personally, i think that rehydrated dried sphagnum looks better, but that's just me tho...... but in that thread it says that drosera will die if light's on 24/7 so dont try it. so i can only confirm that the 24/7 lighting work on sarracenia, i dont know about darlingtonia
 
I never had any seeds under lights, 24/7. Specifically, I just have them room temp, by a window sill, in saturated media. They sprout.
 
LFS is perfect for Sarracenia and Darlingtonia. The only thing better would be live Sphagnum moss. An airy mix of 1/2 LFS 1/2 Perlite is often recommended for Darlingtonia.

It is not known how Darlingtonia will grow under 24/7 lighting. Try at your own risk and let us know the results. See this thread

You're probably going to need at least 3 times as much light as you have now.
 
3x as much? its equal to 100 watts so i need about 300 watts equivalent?
this is the highest i saw. the CF lighting.
i mean, i'm just putting it in little pots, until they grow big enough to touch the top of my mini greenhouse. of course i could just expose it to full sunlight, which i get for like 6 hour. i'll probably try to germinate it and then move it outside. also, fyi, my capensis and adelae are doing very good under the lighting, i'll move them to partial shade outside once the temperature gets warm enough.
 
LFS is perfect for Sarracenia and Darlingtonia. The only thing better would be live Sphagnum moss

Long fibre sphagnum is just dead sphagnum that will soon sprout new live growth.

They are one and the same thing aren't they?
 
umm... i got dried NZ sphagnum moss, that's LFS right? if it is then it means that its DEAD and will not sprout new live growth. unless spore lands in it too...
 
  • #10
Long fibre sphagnum is just dead sphagnum that will soon sprout new live growth.

They are one and the same thing aren't they?

If you're asking if long-fiber sphagnum is the same as dead sphagnum the answer is yes and no. Freshly harvested long strands of living Sphagnum moss can be referred to as long-fiber sphagnum. Since Sphagnum moss is a bryophyte or non-vascular plant it is actually only the top few inches that receive sufficient light that is alive. Once it is completely dried for a long enough period then it is completely dead. That's why I distinctly wrote "LFS" and "live Sphagnum moss" in my posting so it would be clear that I meant "LFS" as dried sphagnum.

It's the spores in the dried long-fiber sphagnum the grows into new moss. The dead moss remains dead. So if you're asking if "resurrected" dead LFS is the same as live Sphagnum moss the answer is yes and no. The new plants are the same because it is live. Not all live Sphagnum can qualify as long-fiber - it depends on how old it is or whether it has been chopped or not.

If you want to nitpick then adopt the convention Barry Rice uses in his book: Sphagnum capitalized and italicized refers to the plant or genus. While sphagnum, all capitals and not italicized, refers to medium for planting.

The medium sphagnum can be in many forms:
The live moss
Dead dried moss
Peat moss (partially decayed dead Sphagnum

Dried Sphagnum moss is commonly sold in two forms: with the long strands intact as "long-fiber sphagnum" and milled sphagnum which is made from breaking or chopping up the long strands.

Long-fiber sphagnum is commonly used as a decorative moss with artificial plants. Milled sphagnum would not make a practical potting medium for an artifical plant that is kept dry. If someone wants to use a pot full of dried milled sphagnum as a deccorative item in a high pedestiran traffic area they are welcome to try it. After all sphagnum is Sphagnum isn't it?
 
  • #11
3x as much? its equal to 100 watts so i need about 300 watts equivalent?
this is the highest i saw. the CF lighting.
i mean, i'm just putting it in little pots, until they grow big enough to touch the top of my mini greenhouse. of course i could just expose it to full sunlight, which i get for like 6 hour. i'll probably try to germinate it and then move it outside. also, fyi, my capensis and adelae are doing very good under the lighting, i'll move them to partial shade outside once the temperature gets warm enough.

The light you have is probably sufficient to get the seeds to germinate. If you're going to grow them under lights for two years you are going to need a lot more light than what you have. You can use more than one lamp to get more light rather than a higher wattage bulb/tube.
 
  • #12
no, i'm trying to get it to grown naturally outside after like 2-3 months after germination. so it'll be in that 24/7 light for like 2-3 months, and i'll move it outside maybe during summertime, and give it natural dormancy..
 
  • #13
this is the sphagnum moss i got
 
  • #14
I think the moss is just fine, although I haven't seen that at Home Depot, my favorite DIY.

In nature, don't the seeds just fall into the water and spend the winter in a semi-frozen state, and then germinate in watery conditions?
 
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