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Thread: Cephalotus tips?

  1. #33
    Carnivorous plant enthusiast vraev's Avatar
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    the only thing for anyone to keep in mind about cephs is: Air circulation, good light, drying media. My friend Av8tor1 taught me that and my cephs are now growing like weeds.

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    Okay. I didn't mean to start something. I've decided just to hold off and look at the fantastic photos of these plants on this website. I'm going to concentrate on growing my Droseras and Pings, because I seem to be doing that rather well so far.

  3. #35
    Doing it wrong until I do it right. xvart's Avatar
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    My typical Cephalotus is about back to the point it was before it died back due to an oversight in moving plants around.



    xvart.
    "The tragedy of life is not that every man loses; but that he almost wins."

    "Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?"

  4. #36
    BigBella's Avatar
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    That's always a contingency with Cephalotus. They can simply die back to the rhizome without any rhyme or reason, regardless of a grower's skill. Everyone who has had these plants for a few years will agree that they do most everything in their own time, from rooting and leaf production, to eventual flowering; and that the real secret to success with Cephalotus is not some magical compost with leaf mould from the West Australian Wattle Tree and trace sea salt, Trichoderma, some strict temperature / humidity regime, any particular array of grow lights or fertilizer, but the far more elusive patience . . .
    “Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."

    -- Galileo "Biff" Galilei

  5. #37
    Capensis's Avatar
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    Looks great, Xvart. I like how that one pitcher is a lot bigger than all of the others.
    http://www.terraforums.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=6789&dateline=1352508752

  6. #38
    RL7836's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBella View Post
    ...... and that the real secret to success with Cephalotus is not some magical compost with leaf mould from the West Australian Wattle Tree and trace sea salt, Trichoderma, some strict temperature / humidity regime, any particular array of grow lights or fertilizer, but the far more elusive patience . . .
    Agreed. That particular secret ingredient has helped me many times.

    The other factor which really helps this secret ingredient is to have several. When one ceph is doing something odd (aka: trying to die), it's a lot easier to be patient when there are others doing well. It's another reason, I almost always have a few leaves stuck in live LFS (& various others in growth stages beyond ...). I don't know if I've ever even had one die w/o reason, but reading all the trials & tribulations others experience - makes me nervous...
    Quote Originally Posted by Capensis View Post
    Looks great, Xvart. I like how that one pitcher is a lot bigger than all of the others.
    That pitcher has gone into 'adult' mode (check out the ribs/teeth). I always look forward to the 1st adult pitcher because the plant is no longer a 'baby', tends to grow faster from this point & is easier to feed if I'm in the mood. If I still have the plant in a 2.5" pot when an adult pitcher shows up, it's often not long until roots start coming out the bottom....
    All the best,
    Ron
    You must do the thing you think you cannot do. --- Eleanor Roosevelt

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  7. #39
    BigBella's Avatar
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    I too keep quite a few Cephalotus on hand and am frequently taking leaves or divisions most any time of year. It is always nice to have "insurance," and they are perennially in demand -- more so than I have realized . . .
    “Sì perché l'autorità dell'opinione di mille nelle scienze non val per una scintilla di ragione di un solo . . ."

    -- Galileo "Biff" Galilei

  8. #40

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    i have been growing cephs for about a year. What i have found to be the best advice is to ignore it as much as possible. yes you may get some die back but it's a plant, they grow.

    I don't know about not watering in the middle to avoid crown rot or growing on a hill or anything like that. I have one plant outside and it gets watered in the middle every few days like everything else. The ones I grow inside (I have about 20 or so individual pots left from selling some this summer) I grow on the tray method. I fill the tray up so there is about an 1/8" of water then let it dry out. Basically I do that once a week.

    #1 I would say well draining soil is good. Lots of sand in peat works for me.

    Personally, and this is just me, I didn't worry about repotting or turning them upside down or anything like that. If some saw me repot these plants (twice in about 3 months) they'd die. they really aren't that sensitive. Yes you'll lose some pitchers, but they'll come back.

    I still have yet to find out why these plants are "hard". I don't give them any more attention than my neps.

    Of course I could say the same about my three seedling N. hamatas. No special treatment, and each has put out little pitchers for me.
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