There seems to be a great deal of needless mystique attributed to growing Heliamphora and I am not sure why this should be the case. Growers who will readily cultivate all manner of highland Nepenthes, once only the purview of Kew Gardens and some wealthy nineteenth-century whack-jobs, will quake at the thought of Heliamphora, whose requirements closely resemble that of highland or ultra-highland Nepenthes -- most varieties now fairly common in cultivation. Even some venders in the Pacific Northwest, who have otherwise been great popularizers of carnivorous plants and dispellers of many myths, are guilty of this difficult view of keeping Heliamphora.
Only a few things have to be taken into consideration for success in cultivating Marsh Pitchers: an open quick-draining compost, composed of a 2:1:1 mix of live (preferred) or dried sphagnum, pumice, and perlite ( though many growers have their own preferences, this one has been a great success over the years), high humidity, moderate temperatures with a nighttime drop, and bright light. Some species are more sensitive (H. elongata, etc.) than others in their stricter requirement for a highland Nepenthes-like Tb drop at night. Much like Darlingtonia, Heliamphora dislike their roots to be warmed to any great degree. This can easily be prevented by keeping the pots in shallow trays of water, especially important in warmer climes and under hot grow lights, though some very successful growers will disagree and swear against that method. I have had plants in and out of trays for years without any noticeable difference, save for the fact that the shallow trays kept me from having to fuss around with the plants on a daily basis, and served as a buffer to overly-warm Tbs.
Heliamphora folliculata (Akopan)
Heliamphora can be extremely variable, both in their general appearance in the wild and especially in cultivation (slight shading may promote almost a doubling in size of some smaller species -- H. minor, for example, but there will be a sacrifice in colouration like that seen in Cephalotus); and good leaf development (look to texts or online sources for adult leaves as references and adjust your methods accordingly) and bright color is a clear indication of proper growing practices. In too little light (a fairly common problem among novices), the leaves may be etiolated ("flattened"), lack a nectar spoon, and may not even resemble a given species or Heliamphora at all. Give them as much light as they can possibly tolerate without discolouration or the burning of the leaf edges and they will thrive; and keep them out of Tbs exceeding 30˚C (86˚ F) for any great length of time, though water trays will keep the pots /roots cool.
Heliamphora heterodoxa x minor
Heliamphora heterodoxa x ionasii
If there are any concerns or doubts raised of your cultivation abilities, begin with the more-tolerant -- cheaper -- hybrids to become more accustomed to growing Heliamphora and go from there . . .
Only a few things have to be taken into consideration for success in cultivating Marsh Pitchers: an open quick-draining compost, composed of a 2:1:1 mix of live (preferred) or dried sphagnum, pumice, and perlite ( though many growers have their own preferences, this one has been a great success over the years), high humidity, moderate temperatures with a nighttime drop, and bright light. Some species are more sensitive (H. elongata, etc.) than others in their stricter requirement for a highland Nepenthes-like Tb drop at night. Much like Darlingtonia, Heliamphora dislike their roots to be warmed to any great degree. This can easily be prevented by keeping the pots in shallow trays of water, especially important in warmer climes and under hot grow lights, though some very successful growers will disagree and swear against that method. I have had plants in and out of trays for years without any noticeable difference, save for the fact that the shallow trays kept me from having to fuss around with the plants on a daily basis, and served as a buffer to overly-warm Tbs.
Heliamphora folliculata (Akopan)
Heliamphora can be extremely variable, both in their general appearance in the wild and especially in cultivation (slight shading may promote almost a doubling in size of some smaller species -- H. minor, for example, but there will be a sacrifice in colouration like that seen in Cephalotus); and good leaf development (look to texts or online sources for adult leaves as references and adjust your methods accordingly) and bright color is a clear indication of proper growing practices. In too little light (a fairly common problem among novices), the leaves may be etiolated ("flattened"), lack a nectar spoon, and may not even resemble a given species or Heliamphora at all. Give them as much light as they can possibly tolerate without discolouration or the burning of the leaf edges and they will thrive; and keep them out of Tbs exceeding 30˚C (86˚ F) for any great length of time, though water trays will keep the pots /roots cool.
Heliamphora heterodoxa x minor
Heliamphora heterodoxa x ionasii
If there are any concerns or doubts raised of your cultivation abilities, begin with the more-tolerant -- cheaper -- hybrids to become more accustomed to growing Heliamphora and go from there . . .